Question - oil change and final drive oil.

[Sunman]

I have some questions that I cannot find reference to in any articles so far. I just did my spring maintainence, oil, filter and final drive oil. I am really glad that I got the Carbon 1 lift adaptor, it made my life so much easier, doing all this by myself.

With the bike still on the side stand, I drained the oil, and removed the old oil filter. This is the first question What exactly is that "rectifier" piece that blocks the oil filter at the front? What a pain in the ass that is, and could they not have given us like 1/2 inch more, so we could get a socket on the cap for the oil filter? The manual says to take it off to get access to the oil filter, but I just manage with a strap type oil filter wrench, although that is a pain as well. Well, I bought a new yamaha oil filter (last time I do that $14, they can kiss my ) Well I have a case of 10-40 oil from a friend, no friction modifiers. I also had about a litre of 20-50 left in a 4L jug of yamalube (first oil change) and a litre of 10-40 yamalube (second oil change) so I just tossed them both in (waste not want not) and topped off with the penzzoil 10-40. Second question, Does anyone think that mixing the viscosities, and oils will affect anything? I just didn't want to waste that oil. I guess I am a cheap ass when you get right down to it. I changed the oil filter, and put the plug with new crush gasket ($2 for that. Does anyone know of a better place to buy them?) Then I took off my left saddle bag, easy job thanks to Dragerman and the hand tightening bolts he gave me. Then I drained the final drive oil. I changed it last year too, I don't think that it can be changed too often can it? The drain bolt had what appeared to be some kind of grease all over it, I wiped it clean and re-installed it. 3rd question, was I supposed to add some kind of grease to the plug? I then affixed my lift adaptor to the bike, and jacked it up. Carbon 1 lift adaptor worked flawlessly. I affixed the legs to the adaptor, and removed my jack. Now I set to refilling all the fluids I drained. With the bike level and upright, was a breeze. First I filled the rear end drive oil. I filled it to the bottom of the fill hole using an oil syringe I got at walmart. It just did not seem to be as much as I put in last time. So I spun the rear wheel by hand in neutral. The oil got sucked up in the drive, I left it for a bit with the wheel stopped, and very slowly the oil level was visible again at the bottom of the fill bolt hole. I spun it again, and when the level dropped, I added more oil maybe 50 ml more, and put the plug back in quickly and tightened. Question 4, will overfilling the final drive a bit, cause me any problems? I filled the engine oil as well, no problems there, and checking the level was a breeze. Usually that is the biggest pain for me, doing it by myself. So, any answers to my silly questions?

[similost]

I wouldn't over fill the final drive. Pressure can build as the oil heats and can be hard on the seals. I would only put in what the manual states.. I believe it's .2L

 

As far as the stator in the way.. I've always said that design engineers should have to work in a shop for a year or two before they can start designing things. I bet if they had to wrench on things they would think a little bit more before they said it looks good.

[flb_78]

Mixing different viscosities of the same brand of oil will be fine, but mixing different brands of oil is a big no no. Each brand will use it's own mix of additives and sometimes the additives will not mix with each other. This was a big problem with Quaker State for a while.

 

The final drive is vented. It won't build pressure. Overfilling it will only result is some oil being pushed out on the wheel.

[Stoutman]

The rectifier is there so it can get some cool air. It can get pretty hot when the electrical system is under full load. Being a solid state device the heat can kill it so they put it in the air flow. I don't remove the rectifier when I change the oil. I use an oil filter wrench that is similar to a large pair of channel lock pliers. The filter comes off with just enough room to clear the rectifier. I've yet to find a strap wrench that will fit a filter that small, and that is the same filter as my son's Nissan pickup truck, hense the pliers.

[KiteSquid]

What exactly is that "rectifier" piece that blocks the oil filter at the front?

 

I don't know, but if you look on page H11 of the parts catalog, the rectifier is part number 37.

 

To remove my oil filter I use a pliers type filter remover.

 

 

Click HERE to see the pair I bought at Harbor Freight (HF) Caveat emptor as HF to me is cheep tools sold inexpensively.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/36700-36799/36778.GIF

 

There are others on the market but they probably cost more, and might be of higher quality. I use mine only on my RSV, as on my cages I can use a strap type oil filter wrench, so for the price, it was a good deal for me.

 

KD Tools makes one for $35 and it has more teeth to grab the filter, Cal-Van tools has some in several sizes for $15 to $26, but one of them looks a lot like the one from HF, Channellock has a nice one for $18. Craftsman has one for $20. IIRC I paid $7 for the HF tool, but it might have been on sale, or I used a coupon, or asked for a Military Discount......

 

Does anyone think that mixing the viscosities, and oils will affect anything?

 

It probably will not hurt.

 

was I supposed to add some kind of grease to the plug?

 

NO, what you probably saw on the drain plug was a mixture of gear lube and metal shavings, as the thing that sticks out of the plug is a magnet. It is normal to see a small amount of metal filings there, but if they are big or excessive, you should check the gears!!!!!

 

will overfilling the final drive a bit, cause me any problems?

 

I would only fill to Yamaha's spec for the reasons stated by others above.

[sarges46]

For filters....if you get into the US head for the wallymart and see if you can get their...supertech filters....they are cheap (I bought a bunch for around 1.99 on sale).

They are also a good filter.

 

ST7317.

[dragerman]

Check out this sight "Bob is the Oil Guy"... some good info on it and there are also links to some good chat forums....

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70&Itemid=71

[BigBoyinMS]

Oil drain plug washer.

Local Honda car dealer.

Part# 94109-14000

We sell them for .32 cents each and keep 100-200 on hand all the time.

 

I'm a huge tightwad but no way will I mix oil... unless I'm using it as bar oil for my chainsaw.

 

The rear diff is vented so the little extra that you added won't hurt anything. It may push a little out the vent.

 

And the rectifier is part of the charging system.

[N3FOL]

I just use my Craftsman Rubber Strap wrench to remove the oil filter. Works every time.

[ToRide1]

For filters....if you get into the US head for the wallymart and see if you can get their...supertech filters....they are cheap (I bought a bunch for around 1.99 on sale).

They are also a good filter.

 

ST7317.

 

Yes they are very well made and a very good buy, there are some that will argue buying some other filter at much greater expense and while it may be a good filter they are not gaining anything. There are a few filters out there that should be avoided as its been proven they have defects the manufacture is not willing to fix.

[similost]

This is the fileter I use on my Roadie. I'll be buying one for the Venture too...

 

Scotts Performance Filter

 

LOVE IT!

[ToRide1]

Yes its a grease, and any here seen or have used any of the new synthetic grar lube's like Moble 1, its a 70w-90 LS now what the [LS] rating is I'm not sure this is a new to me and GL5 has been around for some time and in wide use.

[similost]

Yes its a grease, and any here seen or have used any of the new synthetic grar lube's like Moble 1, its a 70w-90 LS now what the [LS] rating is I'm not sure this is a new to me and GL5 has been around for some time and in wide use.

 

I use the 70-90 Mobile 1 in the transfer case on my Roadie. I just bought a bottle last night to use in the final drive of the Venture. I'll be changing it in the next couple nights... It made a big difference in the noise coming from the transfer case on my R*. Good stuff.