modify stock mufflers?

[royal rider]

Hi everyone,

 

I am so excited to have found this site. I just picked up my new 2007 RSTD (left over model) from the dealer about 2 weeks ago. I think I have about 150 miles on it. I have the pipes removed, and tomorrow am going to try to make them louder. Any suggestions? My goal is to make them almost as loud as I can. THANKS!!!!

[eusa1]

if you want to make noise, then knock yourself out with the mod. if you want it to sound good, then purchase some slip ons.

 

imo the oem pipes with holes drilled in them, sound .........welll.... like pipes with holes drilled in them...

 

many choices out there pal.. i like the bub sleepers.

 

welcome, enjoy the new ride. mike

[BuddyRich]

Welcome to the best site on the web

 

I have RK pipes installed they sound good. I also have a set of RSTD pipes drilled out. Pretty loud. I drilled them out from the inlet side.

[MidlifeVenture]

here are sound clips some good mods here also http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002009&id=285

[SaltyDawg]

Check out this link, there is a video of my RSV with the Fibrosleeve mod done. You can hear for yourself and see if this is what you want. It sounds much better than the drilled holes and is a heck of a lot less expensive than new pipes. Near the end of the thread is instructions on how to do it.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33069

[royal rider]

:sun:EUSA1 (Mike),

 

I appreciate the info. Interestingly enough, I tried to put on the Bub slip on sleepers last night... Here's how the story goes.... A week ago, I initially called Bub to order "SOS" for my 07 RSTD. Sales person said the sos's only fit the venture, not the rstd. scratched my head, called back in, and talked to tech support. Short version was that tech said they weren't sure if they fit rstd or not. I ordered to try it. Back to last night... right side pipe fit like a glove-PERFECT! Left side pipe wouldn't fit right. To put bolt down through mounting tab hole, I would have to push pipe out to the side about 1/2". When this happens, from the back of bike, I can see pipe is crooked, and it is actually at the same time sitting too high. In a nutshell, it is 1" Higher than the right side perfect pipe, and is sticking out to the side around that 1/2" to much. It looked terrible, so am sending back. Could it be that the mounting tab was welded in wrong spot on the left bub pipe, or it is true that they fit the venture but not the rstd?

P.S. Is there a way to respond to your comment without sending a new post reply like I did here???

 

Thanks,

royal rider:confused24:

Edited April 26, 2009 by royal rider
added EUSA1 to my greeting

[royal rider]

After now reading everyone's great comments, I see that on the stock pipes you can either drill holes, or use the hole saw, and atleast remove the baffle closest to the conical end cap. In repsonse to EUSA1, I agree that when in the past I've drilled holes in pipes it sounded like it, and sounded wispy and wasn't what I was looking for. Upon reading about the hole saw trick and removing the rear baffle, my question is: is it going to sound like a nice "aftermarket pipe" sound, or is it also going to sound like "drilled hole" sound that EUSA 1 is referring to.... Also please read my post right above this one on my bub dilemma.

 

THANK YOU!!!!:sun::)

[BuddyRich]

If you want loud theses ARE. Vic (LoneEagle) has a pair and I quit riding behind him cause I was goin deef.

 

http://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/368/index.html

[BuddyRich]

:sun:EUSA1 (Mike),

 

 

P.S. Is there a way to respond to your comment without sending a new post reply like I did here???

 

Thanks,

royal rider:confused24:

 

Actually when you hit reply its always going to start a new post. That's the way the thread works. Just read down the post is what most of us do here. On this one I hit Quote and removed what I didn't want to show up. But only remove ] in between the brackets [

[royal rider]

Actually when you hit reply its always going to start a new post. That's the way the thread works. Just read down the post is what most of us do here. On this one I hit Quote and removed what I didn't want to show up. But only remove ] in between the brackets [

 

 

BuddyRich:

Thank you for your help. I appreciate it!

[Freebird]

I really don't understand why the Bubs didn't fit right. I have RSTD mufflers on my RSV and they bolted right up and look great.

[SaltyDawg]

After now reading everyone's great comments, I see that on the stock pipes you can either drill holes, or use the hole saw, and atleast remove the baffle closest to the conical end cap. In repsonse to EUSA1, I agree that when in the past I've drilled holes in pipes it sounded like it, and sounded wispy and wasn't what I was looking for. Upon reading about the hole saw trick and removing the rear baffle, my question is: is it going to sound like a nice "aftermarket pipe" sound, or is it also going to sound like "drilled hole" sound that EUSA 1 is referring to.... Also please read my post right above this one on my bub dilemma.

 

THANK YOU!!!!:sun::)

 

Were you able to listen to the youtube video of my RSV? When I first got this bike it had the drilled hole mod done. Didn't like it at all, in fact I was lucky enough to still have my pipes from my first RSV and I put them on. They are the ones I did the fibrosleeve mod to and I love it. A much deeper rich sound. By putting the fiberglass matting in the pipe it gets rid of the TAT TAT TAT sound you get by drilling. It absorbs the tinny echo in the pipes. Click on the video and go to the Youtube page to watch it. For some reason it's coming over a little wispy on this site, but sounds right at the Youtube site.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqs_BqNnGGw]YouTube - RSV Fibrosleeve MOD[/ame]

[eusa1]

the bubs will fit your rstd, the mounting bracket is prob. bent in shipping or something, i have seen that a few times in the past...check that before you spend the shipping to send them back.

mike

[royal rider]

the bubs will fit your rstd, the mounting bracket is prob. bent in shipping or something, i have seen that a few times in the past...check that before you spend the shipping to send them back.

mike

 

 

 

I'm still scratching my head on the left side pipe that doesn't fit... I'm sure you are right on the mounting bracket being messed up. If I try to fix myself, Murphy's Law says I will break, scratch, or dent pipe, and then would void warranty. Bub's is sending me a free shipping label to send back pipes. Hopefully tech person will measure brackets to see what is going on with the set that I am sending back. BTW, Bubs has been very helpful, and the overall look and finish of the pipes is top notch, just a problem with the fitment... I will let everyone know what I find out from Bub's once they assess the situation.

Blake - royal rider

[royal rider]

Were you able to listen to the youtube video of my RSV? When I first got this bike it had the drilled hole mod done. Didn't like it at all, in fact I was lucky enough to still have my pipes from my first RSV and I put them on. They are the ones I did the fibrosleeve mod to and I love it. A much deeper rich sound. By putting the fiberglass matting in the pipe it gets rid of the TAT TAT TAT sound you get by drilling. It absorbs the tinny echo in the pipes. Click on the video and go to the Youtube page to watch it. For some reason it's coming over a little wispy on this site, but sounds right at the Youtube site.

 

 

 

I just listened to the YouTube clip. They sound good. Thank you for your help. In a couple hours, I'm going to my friend's body shop and we're gonna use the holesaw to remove baffle. We are going to try to cut just big enough to remove baffle, but leave enough of the end cap intact so that the machined screw holes are still strong enough to reattach the billet end caps. I'm wondering if putting the billet end caps back on would help with the tat tat tat sound????

royal rider

[Zero AK]

I was wondering if you guys could help me out with figuring out which size hole saw to use for this mod, I found some directions that said to use a 1 1/2' saw, but it leaves me little room to work with and I'm kind of stuck.

[SaltyDawg]

I just listened to the YouTube clip. They sound good. Thank you for your help. In a couple hours, I'm going to my friend's body shop and we're gonna use the holesaw to remove baffle. We are going to try to cut just big enough to remove baffle, but leave enough of the end cap intact so that the machined screw holes are still strong enough to reattach the billet end caps. I'm wondering if putting the billet end caps back on would help with the tat tat tat sound????

royal rider

 

I doubt the end caps would help get rid of the sound. It's caused from the sound echoing off the inside walls. The fiberglass absorbs the echo.

[SaltyDawg]

I was wondering if you guys could help me out with figuring out which size hole saw to use for this mod, I found some directions that said to use a 1 1/2' saw, but it leaves me little room to work with and I'm kind of stuck.

 

You want the hole saw to be as close to the outside as possible to cut the cone out, there is still a back plate behind that. Assuming you are talking about RSV pipes. I am not sure about RSTD pipes, I haven't paid too much attention to them. The backplate will be easier to remove with a cold chisel than hole saw because of the tapered ends of the RSV pipe.

 

I burned up two hole saws trying to cut the inside backplate out.

[royal rider]

I doubt the end caps would help get rid of the sound. It's caused from the sound echoing off the inside walls. The fiberglass absorbs the echo.

 

I see what you're saying. Thanks

royal rider

[royal rider]

I was wondering if you guys could help me out with figuring out which size hole saw to use for this mod, I found some directions that said to use a 1 1/2' saw, but it leaves me little room to work with and I'm kind of stuck.

 

I have the 07 RSTD, and please read my thread about needing help on the baffle removal. My friend has a body shop, and therefore has a plasma cutter. The "PC" worked great on cutting out the cone. We cut slightly outside of the weld where the baffle attaches, and were able to slide the cone out. We did it this way because IF we are successful in completely removing the farthest back baffle, I may be able to rivet or tack weld back in what's left of the cone( which still has the threaded screw holes attached) so that I may be able to reattach my rstd stock billet end caps. As you will see in my other thread I cannot get that stubborn baffle removed due to what looks like a 1/2 inch weld at the beginning of the baffle about 6-7 inches further in. I just haven't had time to mess with it anymore, but IF I do, I will let everyone know the outcome.

thanks, royal rider-Blake