Superbrace, my humble opinion.

[Squeeze]

I agree with GeorgeS, but with one Exception. Tripple Tree and Fork Diameters are good enough for nearly any Speeds. Also the Overlap on the Fork is not too short.

 

There are two other Things you might consider.

 

1st - the Geometry of the front End

on a Max, you can cure nearly every Wobble or Weave with a Set of custom made Tripple Trees. Those Trees have a different Offset, 30 mm instead of the stock 50mm, this Changes the Bikes Wheelbase and the Trail. In Combination with good Bearings and the Races of the Bearings glued in Place, instead of hammering them in the Seat, all Problem are just plain History.

 

2nd - Tires

all Ventures have big Tires, wide, a fairly Chopper-like Width/Height Tire Ratio and biased Threads. If there where radial Tires with a fairly lower Ratio, those Problems would not occur that much. I modify FJR1300-Rims to fit in the Maxxes, and evertime a Guy gets his new Set with radial Tires, they get rid of Head Shake and these Tires makes cornering very easy. Even i warn them to pay Attention, nearly everbody falls in the first Corners they take. One Guy nearly dropped his Bike on the inside because he was very surprised by the new Handling of his Bike. It was a Matter of Millimeters which kept him from throwing it in the Woods.

 

Jimbob, what you use, a 10-30 Oil, is a Motoroil. It is not designed to handle the specific Stress which a Forkoil is designed to. The Movement of the Damper inside produce a Lot of Heat on a fairly small Ammount of Oil, so the Motoroil your using is weak maybe since 4 Weeks after you filled it in. Viskosity, Breakaway Torque, Oilspeed on so on .. everything is different than on a Fork Oil. You'd better go back to a Fork Oil.

[Condor]

I'm wondering if there is a difference between the early models like you have or the later ones like mine in terms of weight distribution somehow affecting things. Yes I'm a bigger man 6'02 260lbs. Im just talking head shakes with no hands like Gearhead has. Mine is fine up to 110 with hands on bars.

 

Could be a difference. I have you by a hundred pounds Jimbob. So it's like two up all the time..... And I can take my hands off the bars at any time and they both track straight and true.

[CrazyHorse]

 

Jimbob, what you use, a 10-30 Oil, is a Motoroil. It is not designed to handle the specific Stress which a Forkoil is designed to. The Movement of the Damper inside produce a Lot of Heat on a fairly small Ammount of Oil, so the Motoroil your using is weak maybe since 4 Weeks after you filled it in. Viskosity, Breakaway Torque, Oilspeed on so on .. everything is different than on a Fork Oil. You'd better go back to a Fork Oil.

 

Yes I read about trying 0-30 here but I have to tell you very disturbing feel especially cornering and if there is any even slight bumpiness in the turn very uneasy feeling the fork damping is almost non exsistant I will be changing it soon.

[Gearhead]

From the History page on this site:

"Many Venture riders still maintain that the original 1200 Venture was the best handling of the line."

 

FWIW, I've read elsewhere that it is thought that the bigger trunk on the 86+ contributes to a little less stability at higher speeds. So maybe some of this is isolated, or exaggerated, on the 86+ models.

 

Vermincelli, that is quite a comprehensive list. I have checked ALMOST all of those and my minor issues with wobble and weave persist. In particular, as I started out saying, I installed the Superbrace and while it may have some positive effect on something, it didn't change the wobble and weave. I also notice what I perceived to be fork flex at low speeds. In a tight u-turn the bars and forks oscillate a little, not enough to dump me or anything, but noticable. What does yours do? That feeling didn't change with the brace.

 

Jeremy

[CrazyHorse]

From the History page on this site:

"Many Venture riders still maintain that the original 1200 Venture was the best handling of the line."

 

FWIW, I've read elsewhere that it is thought that the bigger trunk on the 86+ contributes to a little less stability at higher speeds. So maybe some of this is isolated, or exaggerated, on the 86+ models.

 

I also notice what I perceived to be fork flex at low speeds. In a tight u-turn the bars and forks oscillate a little, not enough to dump me or anything, but noticable. What does yours do? That feeling didn't change with the brace.

 

Jeremy

 

I was thinking the same thing about 86+ more weight in the back lightning the front wheel more of a chance to wobble . Upright seating position with weight more towards the back. Im wondering if tank slap and wobble are somewhat related big brother, little sister kinda thing. If your interesed this article from sportrider is interesting I kinda thinking that some of this applies to our bikes when we try to ride them beyond what they were designed for. http://www.sportrider.com/ride/RSS/113_0206_motorcycle_tankslappers/

 

When your doing tight U turns are you applying the back brake? To do a really tight U turn I apply some rear brake enough where I can turn my motorcycle in circles in a parking space and a half to two spaces (my brakes are de-linked I know alot of you frown on this and I'm the devil for saying it.) Since these bikes have linked brakes I wonder if your applying the rear brake activating the left front brake causing some of the flex you describe (one sided pressure on left side). Just a thought. Jim

[Gearhead]

I don't think that the problem with a bit trunk is lightening the front end, per se. There's plenty of poundage on both ends! But there is something about having the weight up high and far back that contributes to certain handling instabilities, I think the high-speed weave. Having the weight way back probably exacerbates frame flex. Once upon a time I read an article about bike luggage and I remember they didn't like trunks for that reason. Saddlebags and tank bags were preferred. Of course, for most of us with Ventures, we want it ALL!. The trunk is just sooo convenient to load and unload. So that's the price we pay, except for Louie who got rid of his trunk!

 

I do apply some foot brake sometimes in tight turns as you describe, but not always. I've experienced this perceived feeling of flex with it applied and not applied.

 

Jeremy

[Guest Vermincelli]

Vermincelli, that is quite a comprehensive list. I have checked ALMOST all of those and my minor issues with wobble and weave persist. In particular, as I started out saying, I installed the Superbrace and while it may have some positive effect on something, it didn't change the wobble and weave. I also notice what I perceived to be fork flex at low speeds. In a tight u-turn the bars and forks oscillate a little, not enough to dump me or anything, but noticable. What does yours do? That feeling didn't change with the brace.

 

Jeremy

 

Mine is simply a slight flexing left to right as the weight of the bike leans in on the forks. For most it's probably not an issue or even noticed but I've gone from race bikes and sport tourers to the Venture and it's really noticeable for me. I've felt the same feeling before with a lack of bracing between forks on other bikes so pretty sure this one just needs more bracing to stiffen it to my tastes. As for the slight drifting on mine, I am pretty sure that it's due to the head tube being too tight. I have to go over to the shop this week to do more work and will check it when I put on the new brace.

 

The oscillation you describe though sounds more like a bearing issue. Even too tight bearings can cause something like that.

 

Another thing you may want to check if you haven't already is to see if the rim itself is true. I had similar problems on my Ducati racebike and turned out that the rim had a very slight bow in one spot.

 

edit: also check the brake disks as well for straightness and for any rough spots.

[a1bummer]

I have a similar problem with my 84. At about 40mph my bars will wobble a lot till I put my hands back on the bars. That's never really never been a problem yet. But yesterday after I synced my carbs I went for a test ride. I got onto the freeway and got along side a crotch rocket. We both smiled and hit the throttles. He was behind me at about 110mph when we went into a gradual curve and my bike began to wobble so bad I though I was gonna go over. As long as I was on the straight and narrow everything was fine. After reading this thread I have some good places to start checking. Thanks for the info. guys.

[Guest Vermincelli]

I got my brace (not a superbrace though,bigger with fork shields) and put it on tonight. HUGE difference for me. Can't feel any flex now and the drifting isn't there anymore. Feels more like a sport tourer.

Only problem is that the handling is so much more tighter that I have to adjust to it again.

[Condor]

I got my brace (not a superbrace though,bigger with fork shields) and put it on tonight. HUGE difference for me. Can't feel any flex now and the drifting isn't there anymore. Feels more like a sport tourer.

Only problem is that the handling is so much more tighter that I have to adjust to it again.

 

Todd, where'd you pick up that set up??

[Guest Vermincelli]

Todd, where'd you pick up that set up??

 

There's a guy here in town who used to work on Vmax's and Ventures as a "hobby". (if you call a 4000 sqft. shop with 4 motorcycle lifts and probably 20 bikes stashed all over a hobby) that had it.

Same guy sold me the forks, brakes, front rim, windshield and has a new road sofa seat I still have to pay for. No name on it though and he doesn't remember where he got it.

He also found and set aside for me a bunch of Vmax engine parts (heads, cams, rearend, vboost) if I want them.

 

I like just walking through there looking at all the goodies he has stashed away.

[Condor]

There's a guy here in town who used to work on Vmax's and Ventures as a "hobby". (if you call a 4000 sqft. shop with 4 motorcycle lifts and probably 20 bikes stashed all over a hobby) that had it.

Same guy sold me the forks, brakes, front rim, windshield and has a new road sofa seat I still have to pay for. No name on it though and he doesn't remember where he got it.

He also found and set aside for me a bunch of Vmax engine parts (heads, cams, rearend, vboost) if I want them.

 

I like just walking through there looking at all the goodies he has stashed away.

 

Nice guy to know.... i was hoping that they might still be available. At least I know they existed and I know one when I see it.

[Guest Vermincelli]

Nice guy to know.... i was hoping that they might still be available. At least I know they existed and I know one when I see it.

 

ahhh, who makes it then? lol

[Guest Flash]

I have a similar problem with my 84. about 110mph when we went into a gradual curve and my bike began to wobble so bad I though I was gonna go over.

 

Check your swing arm as mine needed doing due that same seat sucking experience:080402gudl_prv:.

 

Just waing for the gear selector problem to be sorted once and for all.

[CptKirk]

Have an 83 Venture Royale with 60000 miles on it. I bought the bike used and had my first exposure to the head shake wobble issue immediately after I bought the bike. Had to pull over and have a smoke and unpucker my butt.I had a close look at the entire suspension/ steering system of the bike and found the following things whcih I fixed with new or very low mileage replacement parts.Steering bearings: Replaced and repacked as they were full of gum not grease. Repacked and torqued removed the rubber washer between the locking nuts and the setting stays.Superbrace: The bolt holes in the factory brace are not the correct size for the bolt nor does the brace fit tight to the legs. The factory brace is a thin piece of non fitting garbage. If you apply left or right torque to the front wheel with the factory brace in place you can see the lower legs twist about .020 in in either direction. The Superbrace stops all lower twist.New front tire: Avon Venom per specs previous was Avon Elite worn don good.These alone did not fix ther problem so back to the drawing board.Rear suspension and swing arm: Took the entire rear apart found that the suspension was dried right out with worn bushings. Worn is an understatement. Had to use a brass drift to get the pins out of the monoshock suspension. Pins Worn severely allowing the rear swing arm to move laterally. Same for the composition swingarm bushings which were badly badly toasted. Replaced all with either new or low mileage parts which tightened all up. New rear tire Avon Venom.Retorqued engine mounts which were outside specs.Now the bike is a nice ride the way it should be. I was going to get rid of it before I did all this but decided to give it a makeover and it's worth the effort. The long and short. Superbrace alone is not the cure check out everything. BUT the superbrace does help.PROVIDED all else is to manufacturer specs.

[Big Daddy]

Hey Rick! I would think by now you would have this printed up on a t-shirt. The Guru speaks! Listen carefully! I know my 83 has never handled better. Thanks again!

BD

Jeremy,

 

You are right that the Superbrace is NOT the end all to all of your front end problems. All it really does is precisely tighten up the fork bottoms. However if you are thinking that it will solve your front end wobbles, etc. it will not. I don't know how many miles you have on your 87 but there are many things to consider which it appears you have addressed most of the bearings. But every front end wobble I have ever had or seen has been solved by properly tightening the steering head bearings.

 

To test this, put your bike on the centers stand and have your wife or friend hold down on the rear until your tire comes off the ground. Now center your wheel and give it a little nudge to one side (or the other) and observe how it falls to the fork stops. If it falls easily to the fork stops.....the nuts are too loose. The torque specs in any Venture manual does not get them tightened properly. The wheel should move some but should stop moving before it gets to the stops.

 

Now how to get the steering head nuts tightened is another story, but there are some threads on this forum that should explain how to do it. I have always taken the top triple tree off and repacked the bearings before tightening it. But regardless the final test is the one I explained watching the wheel fall off center.

 

My other test is to take the bike up to the speed limit, set the cruise control and then take your hands off the handle bars. You don't have to take them completely off, but enough to where there is no pressure on the bars from your hands. If the front wants to shake, then they are not tight enough...go back to step one. If you do this test at 40mph and it shakes, but runs fine at 70 mph, then it's getting close to needing attention. But if it wants to shake at 70 mph, then it's definitely time to do something about the head bearings.

 

Another issue to also look at in this situation, is how much sag your front end has. If you are still on stock springs, it is almost certain that the sag has gone from the springs. This causes your front end to set lower and therefore have less rake and trail which will cause the steering to quicken up in a turn, but will become more unstable under deceleration and cause a wobble. Just about all bikes can experience a wobble under severe deceleration. To test this without replacing the springs, pump up the front to maximum and decrease the rear pressure to the minimum.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

[Gearhead]

So, Cpt Kirk, it sounds like the rear end renovation was the most critical step you took? I have done all the cleaning, greasing and bearing preloading back there, but it did not help my wobble. The bushings seemed snug in the suspension linkage, but I just discovered that with the rear tire off the ground, it has about 1/4" of vertical play due to slop in those bushings.

 

As for the steering head, I have performed a slow, multi-stage process. First, I inspected, greased, and torqued to factory specs, which many say are too loose. I had wobble. I read somewhere that if you hook a fish scale to one fork tube (front wheel off ground) and pull from centered position, it should take 3-6 pounds of pull to make the wheel and bars start to turn, more for heavier bikes. So, I tightened the head bearing so I had 3 pound of resistance. No change in handling or wobble. Just recently I adjusted so I had 6-7 pounds of resistance. No change in wobble tendency, but it is now steering sluggishly because the bearings are too tight. So loose (or tight) steering head bearings are not causing my wobble!

 

The wobble I have it not generally severe. I can remove my hands from the bars, but if I hit a rock with hands off or intentionally bump one grip a wobble will start and rapidly amplify. That's not so bad, I keep my hands on the bars. Also, when doing a slow u-turn, I feel the bars wobbling slightly. Also no big deal. Finally, under emergency-stop conditions, death grip on bars, heavy braking, it wobbles severely. Not a big deal UNTIL I get in that situation, then it's highly stressfull!

 

Jeremy

[Squeeze]

Front tire seated bad, Front tire bad or Rim bent would be my guess out of your latest Statement. Why?

 

Because in a U-Turn and very slow Speed you should not feel anything wobbling. If so, there is something mechanicaly involved.

[CrazyHorse]

This is an interesting post on wobbles and such on a FJR1300 site. Give it a read. I want to give proper credit. http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=24590

[Cdnlouie]

Gearhead says: "I just discovered that with the rear tire off the ground, it has about 1/4" of vertical play due to slop in those bushings."

 

Way too much, that will cause a wobble! Been there and done that! Very easily induced by slight touch of bars, .25 inch of slop in rear shock linkage can really get the Venture to "dance" quite easily. Replace the bushings in the shock linkage! Eliminate all free play in suspension linkage as that induces weave.

 

"Also, when doing a slow u-turn, I feel the bars wobbling slightly."

 

Check the upper triple tree handle bar mounting pins (where rubber dampeners wear and develop slop). Get someone to hold front wheel and wiggle bars (left to right) to feel movement.

[Gearhead]

"Front tire seated bad, Front tire bad or Rim bent would be my guess out of your latest Statement. Why?

...

Because in a U-Turn and very slow Speed you should not feel anything wobbling. If so, there is something mechanicaly involved."

 

 

 

Checked these. Bearings good, everything running true. Problem persisted thru the installation of a new tire, although it did improve much at that time.

 

I also checked the play in the rear suspension again, and it's not 1/4", but more like 1/8 to 3/16". The linkage bushings need replacing, but I don't have much of a hi-speed weave so I don't think it's urgent.

 

The rubber handlebar mounts are good. I already wrote the stuff I tried on the head bearing settings. The search goes on!

 

That FJR article is interesting.

 

Jeremy