Clutch Fluid - replaced

[N3FOL]

Last night, I went ahead and replaced my Amber colored clutch fluid. I bought a set of Speed Bleeders and they are the best your money can buy.

 

There is just one thing that was not mentioned anywhere (I've never seen it), if one wants to replace the OEM bleed valve with the SpeedBleeder type. One must remove the left rear fins that are held by 3 allen head bolts. If you don't do this, there is no way you'll be able to remove the OEM bleeder.

 

I had to refill the reservoir at least 4 times to be certain that I have clear liquid coming out the other end. As a beginner, it took me almost an hour being careful not to spill any brake fluid.

 

Next in line is the rear brake reservoir...it does looks dark from the exterior.

[Kregerdoodle]

There is just one thing that was not mentioned anywhere (I've never seen it), if one wants to replace the OEM bleed valve with the SpeedBleeder type. One must remove the left rear fins that are held by 3 allen head bolts. If you don't do this, there is no way you'll be able to remove the OEM bleeder.

*** hhmmmmm... i didn`t have to remove the fins from mine, just removed the little plastic cover and replaced the bleeder..

 

 

Last night, I went ahead and replaced my Amber colored clutch fluid. I bought a set of Speed Bleeders and they are the best your money can buy.

 

I had to refill the reservoir at least 4 times to be certain that I have clear liquid coming out the other end. As a beginner, it took me almost an hour being careful not to spill any brake fluid.

 

Next in line is the rear brake reservoir...it does looks dark from the exterior.

[N3FOL]

I have an '07, which could be a little different.

 

I just noticed a few minutes ago that my clutch fluid reservoir is half full now after riding to work this morning. I checked and looked around and there is no leak anywhere. The bleeder is tight and no fluid is coming out. I hope I can make it home ok with a half filled clutch reservoir...

 

Is this normal after bleeding the fluid...go for a ride...it may require to top off the reservoir after a ride?

[Kregerdoodle]

That could be normal, but I do not recall that happening to me.........

 

 

I have an '07, which could be a little different.

 

I just noticed a few minutes ago that my clutch fluid reservoir is half full now after riding to work this morning. I checked and looked around and there is no leak anywhere. The bleeder is tight and no fluid is coming out. I hope I can make it home ok with a half filled clutch reservoir...

 

Is this normal after bleeding the fluid...go for a ride...it may require to top off the reservoir after a ride?

[N3FOL]

Kbay,

 

Not sure either ....I know it is possible when one drain the coolant from the radiator, the coolant reservoir may need to be topped off. I've never really heard this on Clutch Fluid reservoir as well. If I make it home and my reservoir is totally empty, I will start to worry.

 

Thanks.

[KiteSquid]

When refilling hydraulic fluid reservoirs, you should only fill to the top if you have a new clutch or brake pads on.

 

If you fill the reservoirs with worn parts, when you replace the, the reservoir will be overfilled.

 

I learned this on my first car.

 

 

Mark the approximate level BEFORE messing with the system by applying some tape to the sight glass, and refill to that level when done.

 

 

on a used vehicle, be sure to remove some fluid from the reservoir before backing the position in the slave cylinders into the bores.....

[N3FOL]

I agree, KiteSquid on fluid levels.

 

In my case, I simply loosened the bleeder and pumped the clutch ....refilled 3X and then topped off the reservoir and tightened the bleeder.

 

My co-worker who is a mechanic here at work and on bikes stated that some fluid may "hide' in the system, thus it is normal if not leaking anywhere. (I think he just wants me to feel better and not worry too much:cry:)

[N3FOL]

Well after worrying so much yesterday, I found out that if the front wheel is turned all the way to the left (on the kick stand) the clutch reservoir will appear half full. If I stand the bike straight up or front wheel turned all the way to the right, the reservoir will appear full. I guess my mistake is not really filling the reservoir 'very close' to the top.

 

The good news is that there are no leaks anywhere. Thanks for reading.

[Dave77459]

There is just one thing that was not mentioned anywhere (I've never seen it), if one wants to replace the OEM bleed valve with the SpeedBleeder type. One must remove the left rear fins that are held by 3 allen head bolts. If you don't do this, there is no way you'll be able to remove the OEM bleeder.

*** hhmmmmm... i didn`t have to remove the fins from mine, just removed the little plastic cover and replaced the bleeder..

I did have to remove the fins. The Speedbleeder I replaced it with is much shorter.

 

I had no idea the fins were so easy to remove. Thanks!

 

Dave

[N3FOL]

At first, I thought I was doomed not knowing that the fins can actually be removed by removing a few bolts. Speedbleeders will really save you time and effort. Regards and Ride Safe.

[jburrell]

One thing to remember is that under those fins is a water freeze plug( the little black thing). If you dont tighten up the bottom bolt thouroughly and the bolt backs out the plug may move slightly causing a water loss. ( Don't ask how I know). OK, My stealership left the bolt out when he did my slave clutch replacement and I didn;t notice it until too late. I got a small leak once that went away then the next day near work I lost all my fluids and had to use a penny under the fin to get the plug to stay in place with another bolt. Thos FINs MUST be in place anytime you have your bike running and MUST be tightened all the way down when its running or the pressure will dislodge the rubber plug.

I went ahead and replaced all 4 of mine and changed all the fluids too when it happended to me. thanks for all the good people on this site who assisted me with answers etc I was able to get back home and make the necessary repairs with no damage to the bike. thanks Gunboat and Ponch again for all your help.

[Dave77459]

One thing to remember is that under those fins is a water freeze plug( the little black thing). If you dont tighten up the bottom bolt thouroughly and the bolt backs out the plug may move slightly causing a water loss. ( Don't ask how I know). OK, My stealership left the bolt out when he did my slave clutch replacement and I didn;t notice it until too late. I got a small leak once that went away then the next day near work I lost all my fluids and had to use a penny under the fin to get the plug to stay in place with another bolt. Thos FINs MUST be in place anytime you have your bike running and MUST be tightened all the way down when its running or the pressure will dislodge the rubber plug.

I went ahead and replaced all 4 of mine and changed all the fluids too when it happended to me. thanks for all the good people on this site who assisted me with answers etc I was able to get back home and make the necessary repairs with no damage to the bike. thanks Gunboat and Ponch again for all your help.

Hey James,

 

I am getting most of my MD items done before MD. Is changing the coolant something that can be done at MD?

 

Dave

[wes0778]

One must remove the left rear fins that are held by 3 allen head bolts. If you don't do this, there is no way you'll be able to remove the OEM bleeder.

 

 

+1 on the speed bleeders!!!

I've had to remove the fins, if for nothing else to get the little rubber cover, for the slave cylinder, off and on.

Oh, and yes, and as stated previously, do not start the engine with the fins off!!!

[clawed]

I had no problem getting at the bleeder valve , on my 07. It's a bit tight , but not that bad. let us know how ur clutch feels now. I just did mime and it feels like it engages better.....more solid....than weak and MUSHY!

[Leland]

I've been meaning to mention this for some time, but keep forgetting. When I installed the SpeedBleeders on mine a while back, I had a defective one. Both of the front brakes and rear brake worked great, but when I installed the one on the clutch, I could not get any fluid through it no matter what I did. Ended up having to re-install the original bleeder to get it to work. Found that the SpeedBleeder was defective.

 

Bottom line, check them before you install them. I'll just replace it next time.

[Condor]

On the clutch reserve level. You do not want to fill the reserve almost to the top... ever.... That clutch slave sits right on the engine casing and the fluid will expand when it gets hot. With no place to go the slave will start pushing on the clutch, causing it to start slipping.... Half full is plenty.

[N3FOL]

I've been meaning to mention this for some time, but keep forgetting. When I installed the SpeedBleeders on mine a while back, I had a defective one. Both of the front brakes and rear brake worked great, but when I installed the one on the clutch, I could not get any fluid through it no matter what I did. Ended up having to re-install the original bleeder to get it to work. Found that the SpeedBleeder was defective.

 

Bottom line, check them before you install them. I'll just replace it next time.

 

Hey Leland, call Speedbleeders. I recall last year, they shipped me the wrong speedbleeder so I gave them a call. I can't remember his name on top of my head, but the email contact immediately processed my request with no questions asked and promptly shipped a new set of speedbleeders. Give them a call, I hope they can replace your defective speedbleeder in no time. Regards.

[N3FOL]

On the clutch reserve level. You do not want to fill the reserve almost to the top... ever.... That clutch slave sits right on the engine casing and the fluid will expand when it gets hot. With no place to go the slave will start pushing on the clutch, causing it to start slipping.... Half full is plenty.

 

You do have a point there. I can fill my reservoir about 3/4 full, but not full-full.

 

Ride Safe.

[RSTDdog]

I changed my Clutch fluid today. If you think it feels good after changing the fluid, Take off the clutch lever and clean and polish the brass pivot insert and the chrome pivot bolt for the lever and the other brass pivot in the lever that engages the plunger on the master cylinder. My lever was creaking while I was bleeding. Took everything apart, cleaned and polished the pieces,reassembled with grease.....Smooth like butter. Reduces lever effort as well. This is an often overlooked maintenance item. Clean and grease works much better than just spray lubing the pivots. Try it, you'll like it.....

 

RSTDdog

[N3FOL]

Agree 100% on that. I applied white lithium grease on my clutch lever once a year.

 

It has been almost a year since I changed my clutch fluid and I notice some discoloration on the fluid within the reservoir already. In a couple of months, I will go ahead and replace the fluid once again. Knowing that I have a speedbleeder installed makes me not worry too much as to how am I going to do this. Ride Safe.

[Dave77459]

So, I replaced the fluid Friday morning, but didn't ride until yesterday. Immediately, I found that my clutch behaves very differently. I used to have about 30% of the clutch in the friction zone. Now, I have about 1/8" of friction zone; I pull it in, and the clutch will engage after about 1/8 of travel letting it out. I stalled several times until I got used to it.

 

I replaced the clutch spring with skydoc_17's upgrade kit, and never felt much difference. I wonder if I am just now feeling it, with the changed fluid?

 

Or did I do something wrong?

 

Dave

[Condor]

So, I replaced the fluid Friday morning, but didn't ride until yesterday. Immediately, I found that my clutch behaves very differently. I used to have about 30% of the clutch in the friction zone. Now, I have about 1/8" of friction zone; I pull it in, and the clutch will engage after about 1/8 of travel letting it out. I stalled several times until I got used to it.

 

I replaced the clutch spring with skydoc_17's upgrade kit, and never felt much difference. I wonder if I am just now feeling it, with the changed fluid?

 

Or did I do something wrong?

 

Dave

 

A clutch shouldn't be that grabby. 1/8" off the grip to full on is not right. It basically means your pack is barely releasing. Maybe that's what happens when you remove the 1/2 discs?? If it were me I'd go back to OEM. I hate to say this, but pull the clutch pack and reassemble. You might have put something in wrong. While you have the pressure plate off hold your finger over the push rod while gently squeezing the lever to check and see if you have enough movement to move the throw out bearing. IF there's very little movement you have a slave side issue. IF you get a lot of movement then it's a clutch pack issue.... BTW make sure you have the pressure plate in the right position. Rotate it around to different positions until it seats flush on the disc.

[Dave77459]

A clutch shouldn't be that grabby. 1/8" off the grip to full on is not right. It basically means your pack is barely releasing. Maybe that's what happens when you remove the 1/2 discs?? If it were me I'd go back to OEM. I hate to say this, but pull the clutch pack and reassemble. You might have put something in wrong. While you have the pressure plate off hold your finger over the push rod while gently squeezing the lever to check and see if you have enough movement to move the throw out bearing. IF there's very little movement you have a slave side issue. IF you get a lot of movement then it's a clutch pack issue.... BTW make sure you have the pressure plate in the right position. Rotate it around to different positions until it seats flush on the disc.

I'm pretty sure it was assembled correctly. Squidley supervised my reassembly closely. This tight clutch has only happened since I replaced the clutch fluid. Is there something in that procedure that I could have done wrong?

 

Dave

[Sideoftheroad]

With no place to go the slave will start pushing on the clutch, causing it to start slipping.... Half full is plenty.

 

Is a symptom of this, when starting the bike with the clutch pulled in, the bike moves forward just a tad?

 

The stealer recently changed the front and back fluids and the window is completely filled on the front. Been thinking of taking a turkey baster and sucking some of that out. The bike moving forward just a little bit has only happened a couple times after sitting at work for the day, but makes me wonder.

 

Clutch plates should be good as they were replaced about 1.5 yrs ago and guessing 6-10k miles.

[Dave77459]

Is a symptom of this, when starting the bike with the clutch pulled in, the bike moves forward just a tad?

 

The stealer recently changed the front and back fluids and the window is completely filled on the front. Been thinking of taking a turkey baster and sucking some of that out. The bike moving forward just a little bit has only happened a couple times after sitting at work for the day, but makes me wonder.

 

Clutch plates should be good as they were replaced about 1.5 yrs ago and guessing 6-10k miles.

Stealer told me that it is a symptom of the clutch fluid being cool. It has higher viscosity, so it is a bit grabby. I don't know if it is true, but I sometimes get that myself on the first start of the day, but never after that.

 

Dave