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Single best modification you've made?


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OH? if it does fit, why not? I'm learning here... :think:

 

Because the R1 will lock up even earlier than the stock Caliper. If you feel your rear Brake quite sensitive, as you already stated above, this is pretty much TOO much of Braking Power. I'd disarm the rear Caliper by putting the worst available organic Pad in. Or change the Leverage of teh Assembly, or put Rick Butlers Adjustment Valve in or buy a 10 year old Brake Line off Ebay, maybe a Combination of several Options

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Alright lets see,,, these are in the order that I would prioritize them if I were doing them again..

1st - Heating elements in the grips and in the backrest and raised portion on the rear of my seat.. Total cost = 40 bucks and a couple hours of time. It is SOOOOOOOO freaking comfy being able to ride relaxed no matter how cold it gets AND, I have found thru years of riding that the more uncomfortable you are the more dangerous you become to yourself and others..

2nd - I made a set of pipes for it out of thin wall chain link fense poles and some 16 gauge steel. Synced and tuned the engine to the pipes. Now people know I am there, I have watched deer run away from my bike AND I have been told by the younger generation that my bike is the "sickest" sounding ride they have ever heard... I take that as a compliment..

3rd - cut an old windshield I had way down so when I am in my normal long distance riding position I am looking over the shield by 3 inches and yet still in the "no-wind" zone.

4th - built up a tool kit that matches the bikes needs to a tee.

5th - floorboards for the rider - my girls have done many cross country trips on my Yams and we fiqured out a long time ago that those boards are wayyyy more comfy for them.

6th - Quick release oil plug - pull a pin - swing the door and its open.. Soooo much quicker and easier to swap oil in a parking lot while traveling.

7th - progressive fork springs

8th - KX500 clutch springs - NO MORE SLIPPING EVEN DUMPING THE CLUTCH IN FIFTH!!

9th - the deer horns I stole from a dead Muly out in Montana years ago - they have started more conversations with everyone from old grandmas to little kids.. I love people and am always looking for ways to get folks to tell me their lifes story..

10th - last but not least, the little wedge shaped saftey mirrors I found out in Idaho that are mounted on my mirrors - I loved them so much that I spent the time to remove them from my 84 and have the 84 mirrors now on my 83.. Have saved my life many times!!!

'Puc

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I recently added driving lights to my RSTD. I searched the internet for light bars, mounts, etc. After coming up with light sets costing $279 or more, I went to Pep Boys and bought a set of driving lights for about $30.

 

I installed the lights where the front side reflectors were mounted (light2.jpg and light4.jpg). There are spade connectors under the heat-shrink tube so they can easily be disconnected,only having to replace the heat-shrink tube. The ground wire is mounted using a ring connector under the same bolt holding the light to the original bracket. I used nail polish to keep the nut and bolt from loosening. I couldn't find my lok-tite. Wires are ty-wrapped lightly to the brake lines.

 

The switch is screwed to the plastic underside of the seat (light3.jpg). Spade connectors easily let me disconnect the seat for complete removal.

 

I added the pilot light because it was too easy to walk away from the bike leaving the driving lights on. I didn't want to drill holes in the bike yet so I mounted a pilot light to the wire harness on the right handlbar (light1.jpg). I used heat-shrink tube to cover the pilot light, two different sizes to step down from the polit light size to the wire size. Mounted with ty-wraps. At some point I may drill a hole to permanently mount the pilot light. I chose blue so it would not distract me while driving at night.

 

The lights are wired directly to the battery using ring connectors. The switch and wire harness came with the lights so no relay was required. Load wire to the lights is run under the tank. Under the fork head I used a butt connector to connect the driving light feed and pilot light feed to the supply wire.

 

I like the quality of light coming from a driving light (rather than fog light) at a lower angle than the headlight. They do a nice job of filling in where the headlight misses. 55 watts each light.

Edited by StarQ
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Well among others, The Best, !!! was the Upgraded Stator, and the Double Odyessy Battery system. And replaceing the fuse block, with a 12 unit ATM type fuse holder.

Why?? It starts, with one touch of the button, and no dead batteries now for 2 1/2 years !!!!!!!! :dancefool:

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Okay thought I would join the post LOL Best bits so far for my RSV are:

Guardian Bell

Butler seat mod

Wagner grill AND

"safety Chrome" gotta have lots of safety chrome, like I said in an earlier post "he buys drink--I buy safety chrome"

next purchase is a set of Flanders bars (I hope)

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Well, this is in general discussion, so I'll be fresh and comment on changes to my Royal Star Tour Classic:

 

1- Avon Venom-X tires (even without the www) with stock size front

2. Dyna 3000 DK3-K7-4 set at 6500 (still use stock coil and valve seats)

3- Tall sissy bar with lugguage rack

 

The best changes are the ones I didn't make. I have about 20 chrome and leather items I haven't installed yet and I think I'll leave most of them off since I only have to worry about the deer and bears when I go camping.

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Without a doubt it would be the Corebin seat w/backrest for me. I had an Utopia backrest but the stock seat was killing me. The pain had gotten so bad that I almost sold the bike right before I bought the new seat.

 

Just goes to show ya that you should never give up 30 seconds before a miracle happens.

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Although unlikely, I was concerned with someone walking off with my quick-release windshield. I drilled a small hole in the metal bracket for a small padlock. The hole is just big enough for the shackel to go through so the lock can't be moved to the side. I suppose if someone worked at it they could get the windshield off. However, the lock gives me a little piece of mind when the bike is parked unattended.

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Although unlikely, I was concerned with someone walking off with my quick-release windshield. I drilled a small hole in the metal bracket for a small padlock. The hole is just big enough for the shackel to go through so the lock can't be moved to the side. I suppose if someone worked at it they could get the windshield off. However, the lock gives me a little piece of mind when the bike is parked unattended.

 

That's a pretty cool mod!

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