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Posted

If I can beat the rain home, I'll get the camera and take a couple of shots. I also need to take a picture of a mystery grease fitting that I seem to have on my drive shaft housing that no one else does.

Posted
If I can beat the rain home, I'll get the camera and take a couple of shots. I also need to take a picture of a mystery grease fitting that I seem to have on my drive shaft housing that no one else does.

 

I'd be interested in pics of the vacume cure too. I'm having a hard time getting a mental image. The zerk fitting on the DS housing was Yamaha's attemped cure for dry splines.... doesn't work. But it does make an interesting conversation piece.... :)

Posted

You fellas are dashing my hopes to avoid pulling the shaft (Boomer, watch your comments even though I teed that one up for you).

 

Was it a dealer-added item (the zerk) ? Or do I likely have a replacement drive shaft housing ? The serial number on the old girl is #0379, so if they started at 0101, it is one of the first 300 made. I can't find any reference to the zerk in the service manual.

 

:confused24:

Posted

Did you carefully check the Clamps, that seal the bottom of carbs to the Intake manifolds ??

 

Did you carefull check the Clamps, that hold the Air cleaner box to the top of the Carbs.

 

The vaccume line from the left Fwd, carb that runs up to the Barrow sensor, check that hose for rotting, and leaks, Also T-connector in that line, and hose that runs up to the front, bottom of air cleaner box, Is It installed correctly ??

 

Check those Vent hoses's between the two cylinder banks, are they all Installed tightly ??

 

Check the right, Fwd " Intake Manifold " for Cracks !! ( Yes they do crack ) On mine, I could actually hear it sucking air.

 

Have you Removed the TCI, opened it up, and Dryed out the Moisture that is Inside of it ( Yes--- It does have moisture in it, they ALL DO !!!!! ) Put it in oven at about 110 deg. F, to dry it out.

--- Also, resolder the connections from the two plugs, going to the Circuict board inside the TCI.

 

Use Electrical contact cleaner, on the Ignition switch, and the Red, Run Stop switch, And the TCI plugs.

 

Pull the Electrical plug OFF of the BArrometric Pressure sensor, and Clean the contacts.

 

With Engine running at about 2000 RPM, check the DC voltage on the + Battery Stud-- Is it running at between 13.8 to 14.1 Volts ????? If lower then that, you might have an electrical problem.

 

 

Measure the DC Resistance of the Primary winding of all 4 Ignition Coils. should be 3.8 to about 4.1 Ohms.

 

Find the Two wire connectors going to each Ing Coil, and clean the contacts.

Posted

I just beat the rain coming home from work and managed to get a couple quick snaps in before the downpour hit. I hope these are clear enough after the resize. If anyone needs the ful size picture(s), send me a PM and I'll email them directly to you.

 

Pic 1 shows the front carb (#2) with the vacuum line that goes to the boost sensor in place (connected to the vacuum port on the carb).

 

Pic 2 shows the port with the line removed. This port was not drawing ANY vacuum at any rpm prior to a double shot of carb cleaner and being probed with a small drill bit.

Posted
Boomer....who never plans on having oral s*x with his motorcycle.

 

 

 

Boomer, you are a riot. This one should go into the classics forum!!!!

:smile5:

 

boomer////who makes anyone with a pulse laugh out loud!!!!

boomer/// who should have his own forum:rotfl:

Posted

This was an interesting thread Dave. Thanks for updating us on this. I'll be checking the boost vacuum ports on my bikes when I see them next.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Posted

Have you checked your spark plugs to see if it's running lean or rich? Also check the rubber boots from the cylinder head to the carbs for cracks, from the pics they looked pretty good but I thought it was an idea:Cartoon_397:

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