Car engine oil for the RSV ?

[FL-Venture-Rider]

I'm in needing of my first oil change since buying the RSV last week (9,700 miles ). The owner last changed it at 6,600 miles

 

I'm bringing it to the mechanic tomorrow for both front brake pad to be replaced, as there starting to squeal a little.

 

He mentioned $40.00 bucks to change the oil on the RSV. ( I us alley do oil changes and maintenance myself , but I thought I would ask how much )

 

I asked which oil is and filter would he be using for the $39.95 oil change

 

He replied he would use regular automotive oil, ( Castrol ) to be exact, and been using in bikes for the past 25 years, and his friend who has 135,000 miles on his Vulcan, has been doing it this way since day one owning the bike,.

 

In my Honda VTX, I used to run Amsoil oil at $9.95 a QT, and changed it every 4,000 miles instead. http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-motorcycle-oil

 

Has anyone heard of using regular engine oil in the RSV ? If everyone's doing this here, it would be allot cheaper ( Approx $15.00 in materials ) vs $50.00 right now in oil changes.

 

When you ride approx 20,000 miles a year such as I do, it can add up quicker

 

Thanks for your help

[Redneck]

Most automobile oil are not good for a bike with a wet clutch any oil labeled energy conserving is a definite no no. They contain friction modifiers and will cause clutch slippage. There are some oils that do not contain friction modifiers and should be fine for the scoot one would be rotella t 15-40.

[flb_78]

I run Rotella T 15W40 and I use a Purolater Pure One PL14612 automotive filter. I use Rotella because it can be found anywhere.

 

You'll need to run a 10W40 automotive oil to keep away from the frictions modifiers which could damage your clutch.

 

You'll still want to check the "Starburst" on the back for the "energy conserving" label.

 

http://www.dansmc.com/starburst2.jpg http://www.dansmc.com/oilright.jpg

[loehring]

I have always used Rotella T Synthetic with mine. I'm no expert but I know there are some additives in auto oil that are NOT made for the wet clutch that we have on the RSV. Some others will be able to get technical with you but I wouldn't. You'll have clutch slip if you use auto oil for any length of time.

[FL-Venture-Rider]

Thanks, I forgot about the RSV having a wet clutch. The VTX was the same way. I also remember the oil you use can effect the shifting of the bike also

[bryan52577]

You should read this post! A lot of good info here.

 

Bryan

[whanna]

In relation to the API circle:

I was looking at oil the other day and noticed something. Amongst the same 'model' of oil (say regular Castrol generic auto oil) the 10w-30 says energy conserving, but the 10w-40 does not. I also have always touted the dangers of the 'friction modifiers' in auto oil, but it seems that the energy conserving label is NOT all telling. I noticed this across brands, so it isn't Castrol or Rotella or Valvoline alone. It would seem that 10w-40 and up is 'not energy conserving' due to the increased viscosity.

 

In any case, yes - Rotella is my fallback oil when I don't feel like experimenting with something else. Oils made for diesel engines seem to be the best bet (for auto oils), but I'm still trying to find a good synthetic that I know will work. Some have suggested Castrol but I haven't been able to find the exact 'model' that has been thrown around.

 

Back to lurking...

[FL-Venture-Rider]

You should read this post! A lot of good info here.

 

Bryan

 

Thanks, I read through that last week. I forgot about it. It's kinda confusing, and most of it talks between Rotella T and Mobil 1. Seems they get compared allot on the forms here when I looked.

[timgray]

If it's 15W50 then it's probably OK. I have yet to find any that weight that is energy conserving.

 

Problem is that it's not car oil. It's Diesel truck oil. Well maybe a Diesel car would use it.. but I'd never call it car oil.

[painterman67]

doesn't rottela t come in a full synthetic version also??

 

David

[whanna]

Yes, it does now come in a full synthetic.

[Monty]

I always use Castrol 10W40, and have never had any problems with shifting or clutch slip.

[1sttenor]

I run Rotella T 15W40 and I use a Purolater Pure One PL14612 automotive filter. I use Rotella because it can be found anywhere.

 

You'll need to run a 10W40 automotive oil to keep away from the frictions modifiers which could damage your clutch.

 

You'll still want to check the "Starburst" on the back for the "energy conserving" label.

 

http://www.dansmc.com/starburst2.jpg http://www.dansmc.com/oilright.jpg

 

This is the combo I use and I used rotella in the GWs as well!

[cliffno350]

I have used castrol 10w40 in colder weather and castrol 20w50 in warmer weather in Mventures and in older gold wings and havent had any clutch slip issues...

[Ferrantelli]

I always use Castrol 10W40, and have never had any problems with shifting or clutch slip.

I 2nd that!

I have used it in all my bikes for the last 33 years and more than 18 different motorcycles and in all Japanese Marks.

Only one time I used 20w-50, I thought it would help for the summer months in an air cooled motor. That is when I experienced shifting problems, I replaced it back to Castrol GTX 10w-40 and have had no problem since.

Last bike I sold was a Vulcan with 49,000 miles.

My Venture as of now has 18,000 miles.

[juggler]

I just changed my oil this evening. I have been using Amsoil 10W40 motorcycle oil. I made the mistake of using car oil once and only once. My clutch started slipping instantly.

[footsie]

I use mobil 1 synthetic 15-45 in my bikes and have never had any problems.

[jburrell]

Use the Rotella Synthetic save the extra bucks for gas.

Why are you having the pads changed by someone else. Go get some pads and do it your self. There are articles here on how to change the pads and take it from me its not that hard and can be done quickly.

thanks to users here on this site I was able to change my pads and I had never done it before. (thanks Lowell etc). If you have questions just chech the tech article sections or PM me and I''ll be glad to walk you through it. I'll pm you my phone number if you need it. You would save quite a lot on the brake job. Get the HH sinstered pads for the bike.

Feel free to ask if you need assistance.

[mkrieg]

I know this doesnt belong in this thread but I will ask anyways. What oil do you use in a First Generation Venture?

Edited April 14, 2009 by mkrieg

[OutlawRider]

Does anyone know anything about Cheveron 10-40 oil.Is sm rating better or whorse than sj. Should be OK.

[N3FOL]

I also had just replaced my oil and is good for another 2500 miles. Rotella T is always available at my local SAMs and Walmart stores. I now have 10W40 moto oil (Valvoline), but I am really tempted to use Rotella T 15W40 this summer. Please assure me that I will not have any problems by using Rotella T on my Venture. I've never really experienced any clutch slippage and I don't really want to find out the hard way.

[LilBeaver]

If you look through enough oil containers, brands, etc. You will find that you can find "energy conserving" on just about any weight - even 10W-40 and up. The additives that go into the oil, that is the 'friction modifiers', can really put put into just about anything. In some places it may be difficult to find a particular weight with or without that additive but they are available.

 

Another thing to look out for on the label (not just the 'energy conserving') is to make sure that the oil carries the appropriate "API Performance Level" Which ought to be SM, SL, or SJ (depending on model year of bike 2005 or newer, 2004 or older, 2001 or older respectively). But, double check the owner's manual for your particular bike as this may vary for the older bikes, etc.

 

I personally use Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic in all of my vehicles (cars, trucks and motorcycles) and I have found it difficult to find 10W-40 (or 20W-50) without the energy conserving junk on the label... But when I do I pick it up by the case (A few times a year the Sam's club by me carries it).

 

- Rick

 

In relation to the API circle:

I was looking at oil the other day and noticed something. Amongst the same 'model' of oil (say regular Castrol generic auto oil) the 10w-30 says energy conserving, but the 10w-40 does not. I also have always touted the dangers of the 'friction modifiers' in auto oil, but it seems that the energy conserving label is NOT all telling. I noticed this across brands, so it isn't Castrol or Rotella or Valvoline alone. It would seem that 10w-40 and up is 'not energy conserving' due to the increased viscosity.

 

In any case, yes - Rotella is my fallback oil when I don't feel like experimenting with something else. Oils made for diesel engines seem to be the best bet (for auto oils), but I'm still trying to find a good synthetic that I know will work. Some have suggested Castrol but I haven't been able to find the exact 'model' that has been thrown around.

 

Back to lurking...

[gibvel]

If you look through enough oil containers, brands, etc. You will find that you can find "energy conserving" on just about any weight - even 10W-40 and up. The additives that go into the oil, that is the 'friction modifiers', can really put put into just about anything. In some places it may be difficult to find a particular weight with or without that additive but they are available.

 

Another thing to look out for on the label (not just the 'energy conserving') is to make sure that the oil carries the appropriate "API Performance Level" Which ought to be SM, SL, or SJ (depending on model year of bike 2005 or newer, 2004 or older, 2001 or older respectively). But, double check the owner's manual for your particular bike as this may vary for the older bikes, etc.

 

I personally use Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic in all of my vehicles (cars, trucks and motorcycles) and I have found it difficult to find 10W-40 (or 20W-50) without the energy conserving junk on the label... But when I do I pick it up by the case (A few times a year the Sam's club by me carries it).

 

- Rick

 

Okay, those of you guys, who are using Mobil 1 are you using the motorcycle specific or are you using the automobile Mobil 1. I know Freebird and I are using the motorcycle specific stuff (racing 4T 10W-40).

 

If you're using Automobile Mobil 1 full synth. which one are you using.

[FL-Venture-Rider]

Use the Rotella Synthetic save the extra bucks for gas.

Why are you having the pads changed by someone else. Go get some pads and do it your self. There are articles here on how to change the pads and take it from me its not that hard and can be done quickly.

thanks to users here on this site I was able to change my pads and I had never done it before. (thanks Lowell etc). If you have questions just chech the tech article sections or PM me and I''ll be glad to walk you through it. I'll pm you my phone number if you need it. You would save quite a lot on the brake job. Get the HH sinstered pads for the bike.

Feel free to ask if you need assistance.

 

 

Thanks for the heads up. I will keep that in mind for the next time, as he all ready bought the pads.

 

I just bought Mobil 1 today, as I couldnt find anything else really for the bike in the local stores.

 

They charged me $15.00 just for the oil filter

[FL-Venture-Rider]

Okay, those of you guys, who are using Mobil 1 are you using the motorcycle specific or are you using the automobile Mobil 1. I know Freebird and I are using the motorcycle specific stuff (racing 4T 10W-40).

 

If you're using Automobile Mobil 1 full synth. which one are you using.

 

I just bought motocycle 4 stroke oil racing 4T 10W-40 oil for $8.95 a qt at wallmart