Fork oil on front brake disk

[slipstreamer]

Hi, i'm really sorry for you. I've never seen a 11mm Allen Key. Maybe your Socket is worn ? No, it is brand new but, it does not fit tightly in the bolt head. It seemed to fit OK at the start but, as I said, when I got the left bolt out I had to knock the bolt and the socket apart with a hammer and cold chisel because they got wedged together due to the sloppy fit.

 

 

As for how do i get that $%/§(")$=)Bolt out ?

 

Take a Torx Drive Socket, choose a slightly bigger One, maybe a TX 25(?) or a TX 30(?) and hammer it into the stripped Allen Head Bolt.

 

Now, with a Lot of Pressure towards the Bolt, open it with one nice and crisp Turn.

I am thinking that there is great potential here for me to make things worse than they are. So, I am going to put it all back together and take it to my local wrench to get the bolt out. I will take your idea and suggest it to him. It will be interesting to see how he does it. I guess the big question is, where do I get replacement bolts in a hurry? Thanks for the tip Sqeeze

 

[Marcarl]

[/color] I am thinking that there is great potential here for me to make things worse than they are. So, I am going to put it all back together and take it to my local wrench to get the bolt out. I will take your idea and suggest it to him. It will be interesting to see how he does it. I guess the big question is, where do I get replacement bolts in a hurry? Thanks for the tip Sqeeze [/color]

Just take the fork to him and let him play with it, if he doesn't have a replacement then take the old one to your local bolt and nut dealer, they should be able to match it up for you.

[Venturous Randy]

As far as using tape, a piece of Scotch type clear tape will protect your seal and is very thin and will come off easily. The groove can take the sealing edge off the seal.

RandyA

[RustyNails]

First off you do not need an impact wrench to remove the lower Allen head bolt. The Allen head T-Handle that Yamaha sells is 17mm, what i did was use a 17mm nut welded to a 1/2" ready bolt as a very cheap replacement. This tool is used to hold the damper rod still while you remove the 10mm lower bolt.

 

I have never had to use any kind of hammer to remove the inner fork tube, clamp the upper housing in a vise (protecting it from damage) just tight enough to hold it in place and the pull steadily on the lower tube, it will slide out. Using a sledge hammer around the lower fork tube is inviting disaster, one slip and the tube is useless.

 

As for buying most generic parts from any manufacturer is just throwing your money away. O-rings can be purchased from any hydraulic repair shop for 10% of what Yamaha charges. Or @: http://www.allorings.com/

 

Bolts, fasteners of any kind at the local hardware store.

[Rocket]

Thanks for the input Paul. can't quite visualize how that 15/16 bolt and nut work but will no doubt see it when I get into it. What's up with your forks that the uppers need changing and why the bushings? The uninitiated need to know these things.

 

Take it easy on the Malahat by the way. I ran that daily for about six weeks when Ellen was in the hospital for brain surgery in 84 and we were living in Nanaimo.

Right now I am in CFB Wainwright, Alberta, changed out the upper tubes & bushings, last weekend.

 

I took out a deer last year with the bike & suspected bent forks, I confirmed it last month. The bolt & nut (I use as an adapter) goes between the socket & head of the damper rod. Allowing the damper rod to stay still when tightening the bottom allen head bolt on reassembly.

[slipstreamer]

Thanks for all of your help guys, all good stuff, I should be able to gitter done now. Just for all of your information I goofed. While I thought I had installed a 10 mm alan socket in my impact wrench I had in fact installed a 3/8 socket which caused it to wedge in the bolt head on one and possibly strip the other one which is where my grief comes from. Moral: Put your tools back in their proper place so that when you reach for a tool you get the right one. I have gone the route of completely removing the forks from the bike (uppers and lowers) which required the extra steps of removing the fairing and knocking the air pressure collars off of the top of each fork. All because I made a dumb mistake. This is what we call experience from which wisdom is supposed to come. I will let you know how the extraction of the damaged bolt goes.

 

Cheers,

[slipstreamer]

Thanks for all of your help guys, all good stuff, I should be able to gitterdone now. Just for all of your information I goofed. While I thought I had installed a 10 mm alan socket in my impact wrench I had in fact installed a 3/8 socket which caused it to wedge in the bolt head on one and possibly strip the other one which is where my grief comes from. Moral: Put your tools back in their proper place so that when you reach for one you get the right one. I have gone the route of completely removing the forks from the bike (uppers and lowers) which required the extra steps of removing the fairing and knocking the air pressure collars off of the top of each fork. All because I made a dumb mistake. This is what we call experience from which wisdom is supposed to come.

 

Cheers,

[slipstreamer]

Good news: I got that pesky bolt out. It actually came out quite easily with a standard 1/2 inch ratchet wrench. This means I don't have to remove the air collars: More good news. It is amazing what the right size socket will do!! However, due to the rounding in the alan head socket, caused by using the wrong socket wrench, the socket sticks in the head when torqued. So, I will have to wait for new bolts to arrive from yamaha to get the job done.

 

I don't know why the impact wrench is recommended for taking the bolts out given that they are only torqued to 29 lbs. However, I can understand using the impact wrench to put the bolts back in. I figure it might catch in the damper without the damper being held in place by a special tool because it will spin the bolt probably faster than the damper will spin inside. Does that compute for you?

 

In the meantime, when I take the bolts out of the top of the forks how much pressure do I have to put on the wrench to prevent springs and things from flying all over the garage floor?

[Gearhead]

On many bikes the damper bolt is put in with Loctite. It's not that 29 ft lb is so much, it's that with the torque and the Loctite the damper rod will often turn and the bolt won't come loose, and sometimes an impact wrench does the job without the special damper rod wrench.

 

Don't ever torque a bolt with in impact! This is a bit of wisdom I learned from the school of Pain in the Butt. I've learned that it's very difficult to ascertain how much torque you are actually putting on the bolt that way. Besides, if you spin the damper rod at impact speeds, I think it will wear off some fresh aluminum from the fork slider inside your newly cleaned forks.

 

Are the damper rod bolts special, so that you can't use standard bolts from the HW store?

 

The springs don't really try to fly out of the fork when the cap is removed. They only pop up another inch or so.

 

One more thing. On my 87 I was able to remove the complete fork assys without removing the fairing. All the pinch bolts are accessible. Not easily, but accessible...

 

Jeremy

[slipstreamer]

Don't ever torque a bolt with in impact! Besides, if you spin the damper rod at impact speeds, I think it will wear off some fresh aluminum from the fork slider inside your newly cleaned forks. Are you suggesting that an impact wrench should not be used to reassemble the forks? I probably would have done that so it is important to get some views on this question before I do. I don't want to screw anything else up. Anyone else have a different slant on using impact wrenches for this job?

 

Are the damper rod bolts special, so that you can't use standard bolts from the HW store? Not sure about that. I think standard bolts of this type have longer heads on them and deeper sockets. I don't know if they would clear the axle. The heads on the originals are probably shorter for a reason. However, that is a moot point since I have ordered some from Yamaha. Should be here by Friday.

 

One more thing. On my 87 I was able to remove the complete fork assys without removing the fairing. All the pinch bolts are accessible. Not easily, but accessible... Yeah, I'm sure it can be done, others have said the same. I just could not get my alan wrench in there so I took it all off. I don't mind the extra work. Besides, I identified some wires that had the insulation rubbed off of them in the process. So, I can repair that while I have it open. I guess it doesn't hurt to have a peek at the guts every now and then.

 

Thanks for your input Jeremy

 

 

BTW, There was no locktite on these bolts. From that, I would assume that locktite is not necessary in this application since these bolts were in there solidly and have been for many years???

[Gearhead]

The manual says to use Loctite.

 

It sounds like a good thing the fairing came off after all.

 

Some bolts can be run in with an impact, carefully. Lug nuts, for instance: 1) They are big and beefy. 2) The studs are easily replaced if you screw them up. 3) The stud cannot "spin" and create shavings. 4) They should only be snugged with the impact and finish-tightened by hand. However, the fork application is too delicate and easily damaged. I would not do it. I'm going to copy a note I wrote to another guy some time back about this lesson learned on my Virago; it's in reference to the alternator rotor / flywheel on the engine, but the idea is the same.

 

Jeremy

 

**************

Barry,

I have a little experience with this. You know, when someone says this it

usually means he's learned the hard way by screwing up, and this is no

exception. First time I removed my alternator rotor (don't remember why) I

used an impact wrench to loosen the nut, successfully (250 lb-ft rated

wrench). Went to put it back on and didn't have a way to hold it, just

like you, so I torqued it with, you guessed it, the impact wrench. I tried

to hold the trigger just long enough so it "felt" about the same as when I

took it off. Well, some years later I had to remove it again. Impact

wrench wouldn't touch it. Oh, boy, what now? After some unsuccessful

harebrained schemes, I made a nice, heavy welded steel tool that bolts to

the threads on the inside hub of the rotor. Shoulda done that in the first

place. Let me tell you, I had to really pull on that thing, using cheater

pipes, etc, to break that nut loose. I felt lucky that I didn't break

anything.

But wait, there's more. The rotor fits on the crank with a taper. I had

wedged that taper together so tightly that I couldn't get the rotor off. I

tried the puller, the rapping with a hammer, etc. Finally I pulled out all

the stops and planned the grand finale. I have a friend with a big

oxy-acetylene torch. The motor was out and cases split at this point (I

had to replace a bearing). I bought some dry ice and packed the whole

crank in it, and took the assembly to Chuck's place. By the time I got

there the whole crank and even the rotor were frosting up from the cold.

We put the puller in place and Chuck applied some RAPID heat to the rotor

hub. Then I started the hammer rapping on the end of the puller (usually

works on a taper) - nothing. Chuck says "gimme that hammer" and WHALES on

the end of the puller a couple times, and the thing finally pops off. Was

it a combination of the thermal stuff, or just Chucks heavy hammer hand

that did the trick? I dunno, but I don't want to do that again.

Lessons learned:

1) Use some sort of tool (special wrench like mine, or a strap wrench

sounds easier if you haven't already over tightened the sucker) and PROPERLY

torque the nut down with a torque wrench.

2) Sometimes a bigger hammer really does work, and sometimes it takes

somebody else (not the owner) do have the guts to use it.

3) Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable putting the tranny in gear and

holding the output shaft or rear wheel anyway, because it's too much torque

through the gear teeth.

4) The nut is conventional right-hand thread.

5) DO NOT use the clutch basket with something jammed in it. See below for

another screw-up.

6) Impact wrenches are cool for loosening, but dangerous for tightening.

CLUTCH BASKET FAUX-PAUS (sp?)

I was trying to remove the center nut for the clutch basket, which is not

as tight as the rotor nut. In frustration I jammed something into the

clutch basket teeth and SNAP, off broke one of the teeth. DUH, it's a

long, skinny aluminum protrusion. Said another prayer of thanks for the

parts bike and moved on. I welded another special tool for that which

engages the holes in the hub of the basket. Much more successful.

Jeremy

[slipstreamer]

Thanks again Jeremy. I have resolved to not use the impact wrench and, even though the manual says to use locktite, I think I will forego that too.

 

But, a new issue. Both of the taper spindles that are supposed to keep those three washers in place at the bottom of the damper seem to be missing. But, I think I can see them sitting at the bottom of the lower fork casing: Or are those the cups that the taper spindles sit in .

 

The lower forks came off quite easily but the dampers remained securely in the upper fork tubes. I am guessing that this is because the process called for removing the lower fork bolts too soon. I could put the lower forks back on and pull the dampers out but, the question is, is that necessary I think I can put new seals in and get on with it since there are no parts to replace on the damper.

 

On the subject of putting the new seals in: I tried moving the existing seals down the upper fork to see how easy they would come off that way. I find that there is a rough surface there and a couple of what appear to be fixed bushings that could damage a new seal. So, it looks to me like removing the upper fork and sliding the new seals on from the top end is the most adviseable way to go. Any thoughts on this

 

I think I have discovered that I already have progressive springs. They are 18 inches long with the top 6 inches having about 4 coils per inch and the bottom 12 inches having about 2 coils per inch. There is also a 1 inch plastic spacer at the top. Can anyone confirm my suspicions

 

I plan on using gasoline to clean out the fork tubes. should I be using something else like varsol maybe

[Gearhead]

Hey Slip,

 

Did the three washers come out? You should be able to take a good flashlight and look down the sliders to see if the taper pieces are in there. If so, they will protrude up off the bottom of the slider bore. I've never had them stick in the bottom of the slider before, but I guess it could happen.

 

The damper rods come out the top of the fork tubes. When the fork is out you just turn it upside down and they fall out.

 

I've never tried to remove fork seals from the bottom. There is a bushing at the very bottom of the fork tube, right? Can you spread that bushing just enough to work it off the end, and if so will that free up the path for the seal? How rough is the surface you refer to? Otherwise you will have to remove the fork tubes and slide the bushings up. It seems like somebody here did them from the bottom a few months back - did you find that write-up?

 

I was thinking the stock springs were 16" long and Progressives 20" long, but don't remember for sure. The stockers are progressively wound, but there is much more stuff at the top - see in the manual the various collars and spacers. If all you have is spring seat and a plastic spacer then you probably do have Progressive brand springs. Can you submit a pic?

 

I use gas to clean everything except rubber parts. However, with forks there are a lot of nooks and crannies which are a pain to get all the gas out of and it takes me a long time. The last time I approached it differently. I put in the new parts and reassembled without cleaning, but I was careful not to get any grit inside while working on them. Then I put a few oz of ATF in the forks, stroked them several times, and drained. Did that 3 or 4 times until the ATF drained clean.

 

Jeremy

[slipstreamer]

See my comments in blue below:

 

Hey Slip,

 

Did the three washers come out? Yeah Jeremy, I found the missing washer in the bottom of the catch basin at the bottom of some black looking fork oil. Yesterday was my lucky day I guess. :rotf:I think the taper spindles are stuck in there though, is that possible

 

 

The damper rods come out the top of the fork tubes. When the fork is out you just turn it upside down and they fall out. Good clue, thanks a ton for that one. Given that, I guess the forks are definitely coming off today.

 

I've never tried to remove fork seals from the bottom. There is a bushing at the very bottom of the fork tube, right? Can you spread that bushing just enough to work it off the end, and if so will that free up the path for the seal? Yes, I got the bushings off, that was easy. How rough is the surface you refer to? What I was referring to as being rough is the part of the fork that has not been polished. I believe the roughness is the marks from the lathe when it was turned. I think that would be a little too rough on the new seals going over that. Otherwise you will have to remove the fork tubes and slide the bushings up. Affirmative. It seems like somebody here did them from the bottom a few months back - did you find that write-up? Yes, I found it, I've been using it and the pictures as a guide.

 

I was thinking the stock springs were 16" long and Progressives 20" long, but don't remember for sure. Mine measure out at 18". The stockers are progressively wound, but there is much more stuff at the top - see in the manual the various collars and spacers. If all you have is spring seat and a plastic spacer then you probably do have Progressive brand springs. Can you submit a pic? Sorry, no digital camera but, there was a spring seat, a 4 inch guide and a 1 1/4" plastic spacer on top of the spring. Does that mean stock I don't think there is a plastic spacer in stock springs???

 

I use gas to clean everything except rubber parts. However, with forks there are a lot of nooks and crannies which are a pain to get all the gas out of and it takes me a long time. The last time I approached it differently. I put in the new parts and reassembled without cleaning, but I was careful not to get any grit inside while working on them. Then I put a few oz of ATF in the forks, stroked them several times, and drained. Did that 3 or 4 times until the ATF drained clean. I am guessing that ATF would be automatic transmission fluid? Sounds like a good idea but, I have the time to let the gas drain out and/or evaporate so, I think I will probably use that or varsol. Maybe a good idea to run a few ounces of ATF one time after I assemble though.

 

Thanks again for your help Jeremy, every little bit is appreciated.

 

Cliff

 

Jeremy

[Gearhead]

I suppose you could pull the damper rod up with a long wire, like a coat hanger, inserted down the middle and out thru the threads.

 

If you have the 4" guide (basically a tube?) on top of the springs, they must be stock. Progressives are too tall to fit in like that. My guess is that a PO put in the plastic spacers to increase the preload. Somewhere on this site is posted a pic of both springs side-by-side. They look enough different that if you find that pic you should be able to tell.

 

Yeah, I'd flush a little ATF thru it anyway. ATF is similar to fork oil I've been told.

 

Jeremy

[GeorgeS]

A 3/8 in, 3 ft. wooden dowel works good for pushing parts up thru tubes from bottom if the uppers are not removed.

 

I used Federal Mogul main bearing assembly greese on all parts when re installing the new Seals.

 

The Bushing , spread apart to slide them off.

 

If installing seals from the bottom, check where the lower bushing fits in place, and make sure no sharp edges there to damage new Seals.

I did some burnishing here with Dremel tool.

 

It is advisable to Replace Both the upper, and lower bushings.

Some guy had a dealer, do the job, they did not replace them, and the forks did not work correctly. At least thats what he said, on a posting.

 

I installed the Progressive, springs, I did not Install the PVC spacers. Seemed like I had about 1 inch of compression without them.

 

Remember, when you reinstall your Fluid, use about 1 oz less then the stock amount, due to the increased Diameter of the Progressive Springs.

 

 

Those, Three Small Thin Stainless washers inside, at the bottom,

 

Be sure they are reinstalled Correctly, The center one is different then the upper and lower one.

[slipstreamer]

OK, I am reassembling and can not get the air collars to go over the circlip. I have tried WD 40 and they will still not slide over the circlip. What is the trick here Sure would like to ride this weekend.

 

Thanks guys.

[Rocket]

OK, I am reassembling and can not get the air collars to go over the circlip. I have tried WD 40 and they will still not slide over the circlip. What is the trick here Sure would like to ride this weekend.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Drop each fork tube down from top triple tree (enough for these parts to clear), remove spacer, circlip & air collar. Install circlip first & put into groove, slide air collar down the tube to the circlip, re-install rubber spacer, push fork tube back up into place.

 

Note: On the 83 there is an alignment notch built into the right side air collar, engaging a protrusion on the top triple tree. I am not sure on the later years though, if that is still present or not.

[slipstreamer]

Thanks Rocket . I have received the same answer from Willy Burke (JoeCanuck) by e-mail and Carl (MarkCarl) by phone. I had been of the impression that the air collar had to slide over the circlip and I have been trying to make it so. Your posting has helped immensely. I hope I have not damaged the O rings by trying to force the collars down.

 

I am working on my 84 and it has that alignment notch that you are talking about too. I wonder what purpose that serves?

 

When I first got the forks back together with the front wheel on I took the support out from underneath the bike (and the tie-down straps from the garage rafters) and let the bike settle onto the front wheel. Upon doing that, there was a hissing of air coming from the left air collar and oil had seeped out from the bottom of it. I will force the forks up and see if I can't make the connection tighter. Willy says to put weight on the front forks to achieve this but I am not quite sure how to do that

[Rocket]

 

I am working on my 84 and it has that alignment notch that you are talking about too. I wonder what purpose that serves?

 

When I first got the forks back together with the front wheel on I took the support out from underneath the bike (and the tie-down straps from the garage rafters) and let the bike settle onto the front wheel. Upon doing that, there was a hissing of air coming from the left air collar and oil had seeped out from the bottom of it. I will force the forks up and see if I can't make the connection tighter. Willy says to put weight on the front forks to achieve this but I am not quite sure how to do that

 

I think this notch is to protect the feeder(supply) air line to the forks.

 

The o-rings normally don't get damaged, but can be dry or have dirt in there affecting the seal. I normally clean any crud out of the collars, grease the o-rings, to assist with getting a good seal.

 

After everything is tightened up on the forks except the triple tree bolts (still a little loose), front wheel is mounted to the forks & on the ground. I normally climb on the bike, while it is on the center stand, stand on the footpegs & gently rock my weight back & forth a few times. This helps get the air collars & top triple tree seated evenly on those circlips, before torquing down the fork tube retention bolts. Of course, there is whatever else removed, to be re-installed, before going anywhere.

[slipstreamer]

Thanks Paul

 

After everything is tightened up on the forks except the triple tree bolts (still a little loose), Does this mean that the pinch bolts are tight enough to hold the forks from sliding out of the triple tree but loose enough to allow them to put pressure on the air collar front wheel is mounted to the forks & on the ground. I normally climb on the bike, while it is on the center stand, stand on the footpegs & gently rock my weight back & forth a few times. I am assuming this means not enough to set the bike on its back wheel each time you rock backward This helps get the air collars & top triple tree seated evenly on those circlips, before torquing down the fork tube retention bolts.

[Rocket]

Thanks Paul

 

Does this mean that the pinch bolts are tight enough to hold the forks from sliding out of the triple tree but loose enough to allow them to put pressure on the air collar I need to twist & pull down on mine to move the tubes lower. That is why I said a little loose (Maybe I should have said bolt heads NOT making contact on the clamps), for seating the collar to the circlip. As that circlip acts as a stopper for triple tree height alignment.

 

I am assuming this means not enough to set the bike on its back wheel each time you rock backward

 

I do this to make sure that both the fork tubes are sitting at the same height in the clamps, for alignment purposes. Remember there is not, a lot of torque on the bolts after tightening.

 

Sometimes the rear tire will briefly, barely make contact with the ground, during the rocking motion.

 

Hopefully, this will clear things up for you.

[slipstreamer]

OK guys, I am done. This has been an interesting learning experience. I went for a 150 Km ride yesterday and all works perfectly thanks to all of your help. So, here are some of the things that I did and learned in the process:

 

I figured out a way to set the air collars firmly against the wire circlip on the upper/inner fork. First I secured the bike so it could not fall over. I did this with ratchet tie downs hooked to the rear crash guards and to the rafters in my garage, one on each side. Then, with the bike on the centre stand I jacked it up, using a car jack under the motor, just high enough to get two pieces of 2 X 4 under the front wheel. Then, I released the pressure in the jack with a quick twist so the bike came down quick and voila, collars set. Tightened the upper pinch bolts then removed the 2 X 4s from under the front wheel. The CLASS works and holds pressure.

 

I also had a tool made by a local tool and dye maker to hold the damper still while I tightened the bolts at the bottom of the forks. First I went to NAPA with my damper and bought a nut that fit, turns out to be 5/8. I then had the T&D guy use a piece of solid round stock to make the handle and attach the nut to the end which he did by turning the end of the stock rod to the exact dimension of the inside diameter of the thread on the nut. He then banged the nut on with a hammer and spot welded it and then the handle at the other end. Perfect tool, 25 inches long. Cost $20. Worth every penny.

 

One of the previous owners of my bike had removed the stock caps that go into the top of the inner fork just before the cap bolts, at the top of the forks, and replaced them with slightly longer pieces of ABS. Presumably this was done to make the ride firmer. Those ABS pieces were about the same diameter as the guide that they sit on and were consequently awkward to work with when putting the cap bolts back in. So, I had my T&D friend manufacture two replacement caps out of round aluminum stock. They are about 1 1/4 inches long and he milled a recess about 1/8 in deep in one end to accomodate the guide. He also bored out the middle to make the pieces ligher but not through to the other end. The diameter of these pieces is just a bit smaller than the inside diameter of the fork tubes. Cost $15: I gave him $20. They work perfectly and I was able to install the cap bolts with ease.

 

While I could have used lacquer thinner to clean up the brake pads, after they got soaked with fork oil, I chose to replace them.

 

The biggest lesson I learned while doing this project is that it took some two handed pounding with a piece of 1 1/4 inch ABS pipe slid over the inner fork tube to seat the seals deep enough to install the circlips. If you do this make sure that the ABS is chamfered on the inside edges and that it is cut squarely at both ends so that the fork tubes do not get scratched and the seals are set squarely in place. I would not have believed I had to pound so hard but I did it under the guidance and supervision of a motorcycle mechanic who makes his living repairing any and all MCs but has done hundreds of Ventures.

 

Removing the handle bars, to get access to the fork cap bolts, also required some heavy pounding using a special tool that my motorcycle wrench had just for that purpose. This tool consisted of a 30 mm socket welded to a solid piece of steel which he fitted over the hex nut that holds the handle bars in place and which he pounded vigorously to loosen those nuts. Even then, it took some determined effort to remove those two nuts. Why those nuts were put on so tightly I will never know.

 

What would I do different? I would not remove the fairing and I would leave the anti-dive mechanisms in place. I will be keeping a close eye on the anti-dives on my first couple of rides: Hopefully they won't leak oil on my new brake pads. I would also leave my impact wrench in its box. I was able to do the job quite nicely with manual tools. I only say this because I have not had much experience with an impact wrench. Others here are quite comfortable using them.

 

I will also always remove the upper forks: It just makes things a whole lot easier. No big deal. Just bump the air collars off the top and remove the wire circlip. The uppers and lowers come apart easily and the damper slides out of the top of the inner fork when you turn it upside down.

 

Nuther lesson learned: read the label on the fork oil that you buy. I picked up a litre of 5W fork oil thinking I had 10W. I had the container opened before I discovered the mistake. Duh! Anybody want a litre of 5W fork oil ? LOL

 

My expereinced local MC wrench advised me that it was not necessary to always replace the bushings and dust caps although the manual recommends it. He examined mine and said they are good as new.

 

Another tip: The manual says to put tape over the circlip groove on the inner fork. My wrench advised me to just make sure you slide the seals diagonally over the circlip groove so the whole seal lip does not get caught in it.

 

The spindle cups that cover the three wave washers at the bottom of the damper were stuck firmly in the bottom of the lower forks. I had removed the anti-dive units so, I could see the lips of the cups through one of the anti-dive ports. I was able to dislodge the cups using a screwdriver as a pry. However, I protected the edge of the anti-dive port with a slim piece of plexi glass, about 1/4 inch wide, inserted behind the screwdriver shaft. Wood did not work, it just got crushed.

 

Nuff for now.

 

Thanks again for all your help guys http://www.venturers.org/Forum/images/smiles/grinning-smiley-003.gif

 

FWIW

[Marcarl]

Thanks for the report, it makes an interesting read. Hope all is well now.

[slipstreamer]

You are welcome Carl, thanks for your helpful phone call, you put me on the right track vis a vis the air collars and the wire circlips. I was absolutely certain I had bumped those air collars over the wire circlips when I uninstalled them but I now know that was just a figment of my imagination. First time I have ever been wrong