Help With Dash Computer Bypass!

[dschwei]

Dash computer is shot!

Does anybody know how to completely bypass the dash computer. I have bypassed the headlight and the taillight but I can't figure out the brake lights. I jumped the pin connector for the head light and tail light but I am having trouble finding the right combination for a brake light jump across the connector. Any help would be appreciated and would get me back on the road.

 

Thanks,

Derek

[DragonRider]

Did you try resoldering the circuit board, thats been a big problem with 1st gens, when things start going screwy with the electrical, its most likely a bad solder on the board, we resoldered mine a good while ago and it fixed all my problems.

 

 

[que=dschwei;120466]Dash computer is shot!

Does anybody know how to completely bypass the dash computer. I have bypassed the headlight and the taillight but I can't figure out the brake lights. I jumped the pin connector for the head light and tail light but I am having trouble finding the right combination for a brake light jump across the connector. Any help would be appreciated and would get me back on the road.

 

Thanks,

Derek

[GeorgeS]

No reason you could not Install another Relay, Rewire the Brake light filaments to receive power only from the new Relay. Wire the Front , and back brake light switch's to control the Relay.

 

Its a " Y " color wire, according to my Service Manual, that takes the power to the Inst Panel, from the two switch's. And output from the Inst panel going to the Rear bulbs, is Y/B "Yellow/Black " and L/W " Blue/White " .

 

You can use a volt meter at the bulbs to Identify which is the Tail, and Brake light at the bulbs.

 

However, as the other fellow said, you could open up the Inst panel and do some resoldering, use a 10Watt pen iron and rosin core solder.

 

If you don't have schematics, the Service Manual is downloadable from this web site, Check in the maintenance section.

[slipstreamer]

I agree with Dragonrider on this one. Resoldering the board should get everything working again. But, resoldering means just heating the offending pins so that the solder flows back around them again to make proper contact. Don't touch the solder runs themselves with a soldering iron. Before I finally found a tech who knew how to do this I gave my CMS to a TV repairman to resolder and he messed up all the solder runs and made a heck of a mess of things. I had to go to e-bay and buy another CMS as a result: That would be another option for you too.

[dschwei]

Thanks for the info. guys. The bypass worked.

Derek