engine noise through headset

[dragonwood]

I have engine noise in headset when intercom is on, the noise will go away if rpms are low enough. any thoughts? I've asked around town here but know one knows a thing including the dealers.

[johnny-canuck]

I don't know what is causing your problem, but I get engine noise through the speakers/headphones when using the Satellite radio. I have it plugged into the aux input on the cassete. Probably the same thing.

[Roadhand]

Do you have the extention from the faring or are you connecting at the cassette door?

I had some noise and I placed a little of the electric greese at the connections and it quit.

 

I have never heard noise when connected at the cassette door

[Brake Pad]

Go to your IC button, and lower your volume, anything over 12 you'll start to get clicking or, other sounds

[johnny-canuck]

Do you have the extention from the faring or are you connecting at the cassette door?

I had some noise and I placed a little of the electric greese at the connections and it quit.

 

I have never heard noise when connected at the cassette door

 

 

I'm connecting at the cassette door. Is there another connection for the aux?

 

John

[dragonwood]

I can barley hear unless my IC is at leat 16, I have J&M headsets and my local rep says everything is fine with the unit. I also have a satilite unit, but I installed a splitter on the back of the tape deck and have the satilite wired into the system under the fairing rather than the front.

[johnny-canuck]

How does one go about putting a splitter on the back of the cassette?

[SamB]

The IC should not have any effect on your Speaker volume, Three seperate voluime settings , IC, audio, CB.

[davecb]

I had the same problem. Keep fine tunig your volume. It took me several tries where my wife and I could talk and the engine noise would not come through so loud. I also turned my mike to face up. This seemed to help a lot.

 

 

 

[Roadhand]

There is a post to place the aux splitter on this site

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28349&highlight=splitter

[V7Goose]

OK, I guess it's been a while since this was discussed here, so I'll cover it. First of all, you don't say what bike you have - all of my info applies specifically to the RSV.

 

The problem I am addressing is ignition ticking in the audio - could be either radio, IC, or CB (and probably all three). The ticking speeds up with the RPM, so it is clearly spark or ignition related. This is not really uncommon on these bikes, but the exact cause has never been conclusively pinpointed. It is usually blamed on the positioning of the wires under the tank or the plugs inside the fairing. It has absolutely nothing to do with the volume level, other than getting louder when you turn it up.

 

It has happened on my 05 twice. The first time was right after I got it back from scheduled service where they replaced the plugs, so I know they had the tank off and had been "messing around" near the wiring harness under there. I pulled the tank and did some generally tugging and moving of the wire bundles - nothing specific. And it was fixed. The next time was about a year later (give or take 10 months - can't really remember! ), and it just started spontaneously one day when I stopped the bike. Over the next few days riding, before I had the time to pull the tank and mess with anything, I notice that the problem would stop if I turned the bars all the way to one side, then start again if I turned them all the way to the other side. I suspect this was simply caused by the wires routed around the steering head into the fairing being tugged and pushed from turning the forks. Anyway, I solved the problem the same way again.

 

Since the two front plug wires arch up against the wire bundles near the frame, I strongly suspect this is the cause. Simply reaching up under there with your fingertips to move them around, particularly on the left side, may be all that is needed. If the problem persists, do a little more tugging and generally moving of the wire bundles. In addition, split the fairing and re-seat all the plugs to ensure the pins have good contact. While you are messing with the plugs it is a good idea to put a little dielectric grease on the pins before you put them back together. There are several other common problems with the radio controls that are generally fixed by re-seating these plugs and sealing them with a little dielectric grease.

 

On a different note, you mention needing your IC volume up around 16 - this is not common, as far as I know. My wife and I generally keep our IC volume setting right around where the radio setting is most comfortable (10 - 12). Of course, how loud you need yours will be dependent on your hearing and the speaker positioning in your helmets. But if you find you need the IC much louder than the radio, maybe check out the correct positioning of both mics; ensure they are facing the correct way and positioned very close to the lips (actually touching is best). Last comment on volume deals with accessories. If you have more than one item connected to your aux input at the same time (through a splitter or Y cable), it is very common for that to cause the audio to drop way down. This is often caused by the audio jacks being wired differently, but sometimes just a poorly designed audio circuit in one of the devices that bleeds the audio to ground.

Goose

[Hotrod]

Mine did this,2007 RSV.Tried everyone's suggestions.Moved wires around under my tank,

repositioned my tach wire away from the intercom wires and still had the same problem.I had previously had my faring apart and put diaelectric grease on the connector that goes

to the head unit for the radio.It would not change channels up or down,nothing but the

volume would work.This fixed that problem, so I thought ,what the heck.Split the faring

again and pulled all the connectors apart and filled with diaelectric grease.Reseated each

one 2 or 3 times to clean the pins,and then tried it to make sure it worked properly before reassembly.This fixed my problem and have not had one since. I hope this works for you like it did me..

[tonyc]

I had a bare wire going to the headset.I taped it and it was fine.

[CanadianRider]

I have engine noise in headset when intercom is on, the noise will go away if rpms are low enough. any thoughts? I've asked around town here but know one knows a thing including the dealers.

I had the same problem on my 2008 RSV shortly after purchase, since it has a 5 year warranty I had the dealer take care of it. Simple problem - the IC wire to the passenger was to close to the ignition wires. Rerouted the IC wire and the problem has been gone and did not return.

[johnny-canuck]

This is why I love this site. I get answers to questions I didn't know I wanted to ask. I was wondering how to connect my sat radio without having to plug in the front of the cassette. Now I know

 

John

[eusa1]

i had the same problem, and cured it!!

 

where you have the splitter connection inside the fairing behinde the cassette deck, needs to be moved away from other wire connections and tied up and taped together along with dialectric grease to keep out the moisture.

move the splitter a few inches and the noise will be gone.

 

it drove me nutts till i found it..........i'm still nutts, but the noise is gone.

 

mike.

[clav_guy]

I have engine noise in headset when intercom is on, the noise will go away if rpms are low enough. any thoughts? I've asked around town here but know one knows a thing including the dealers.

 

I have a 2006 RSV. I did not have any problems at all in this area until this past weekend. I am getting the same engine noise in both headsets in IC. I have had the headsets for a couple years now and never had any issues. It recently went in to the shop for state inspection, new front tire and oil/filter change. So I don't think the guys in the shop did anything to cause this... The other reason I don't think they did anything is because when we started out on our ride this past weekend, everything was fine. Then, out of the blue, after about 20 minutes of 45-55 MPH riding, it started. It gets worse if I blow or speak into the mike.

 

This is only in the headsets, not the bike speaker and only in IC

 

Best regard

CG

[Kirby]

If you think this noise is being picked up and amplified by the microphones on your headsets, let me recommend Mic-Mutes or a similar product. What this does is turn ONLY the mics on and off as needed. There's been many posts about these on this site. Just do a search or go directly to the Mic-Mutes website. It's money well spent!!

[stilako]

This is much later, but I've been looking for a noise answer.

 

If your volume control must be very high to hear on the intercom, check the MUTE button. On mine, it's mounted above the left hand-grip. If that is ON, you will be able to hear on intercom, but the volume will be low. If it was on, and you push it, it will go off, and you may find your ears getting blasted.

 

I have a Sirius sat radio on my '87 VR. I bought their "FM Direct Adapter". It works very well. Originally I purchased one for my truck, because when in Vancouver, I couldn't find a portion of the FM radio dial that wasn't being used by an FM station.

 

The Direct Adapter goes in the line between the external antenna (on the back of the VR) and the radio tuner. When the Sirius receiver is turned on, the Direct Adapter cuts the circuit between the external antenna, and sends the signal from the Sirius directly into the VR's FM receiver. You still have to set the Sirius output and the FM receiver to the same FM frequency, but there is no interference from commercial FM stations. Or AM for that matter.

[Kirby]

2 Gens don't have mute button.

[dacheedah]

It's not the IV volume it's the AV ( Automatic volume) set 0 to 5 . Turn it to 3 or 2, thats what adjusts the volume on your sound system when loud external noises go by ( Ie harleys)

[tomephil]

This is kind of related.

Big Tom helped me with some radio shack magnets on the J and M headset cords for any regular engine noise I was getting. It worked very well for me.

 

My problem is I get the favourite and famous clutch whine in my J and M mike which goes to the headphones. This means that I have to keep the volume on the IC down unless we need to communicate.

 

The clutch whine is in a particular set of frequencies.

 

Here is my idea.

I have done some recording engineering in the past and I know you can use a parametric equalizer to find these frequencies and lower the volume but maintain the regular voice volumes.

The technology is there, I just don't have the time to develop this.

Does anyone know if someone has developed something like this for motorcycle headsets?

I haven't looked into the mike mute buttons yet.