jlh3rd Posted March 25, 2009 Author #201 Posted March 25, 2009 then i read it wrong.....that's where the confusion is coming from.......cause i installed the non fouler with an 18mm adapter from egauges into the cylinder head , then installed the sender into that brass adapter...........i apologize if i've mis-lead anyone........
SilvrT Posted March 25, 2009 #202 Posted March 25, 2009 then i read it wrong.....that's where the confusion is coming from.......cause i installed the non fouler with an 18mm adapter from egauges into the cylinder head , then installed the sender into that brass adapter...........i apologize if i've mis-lead anyone........ You're using a mechanical or electrical gauge? and hey... no apology neccessary!
jlh3rd Posted March 25, 2009 Author #203 Posted March 25, 2009 i'm using an electrical..........but, as i've said in previous posts, i'd use mechanical,... knowing what i know now..
SilvrT Posted March 25, 2009 #204 Posted March 25, 2009 i'm using an electrical..........but, as i've said in previous posts, i'd use mechanical,... knowing what i know now.. I asked to save reading backwards to check my memory (I did recall you using electrical coz I looked closely at your fittings pics). I haven't checked yet but it appears that if I use the non-fouler, plus the adapter, plus the fittings for the sending unit, I won't have enuf room.
jlh3rd Posted March 25, 2009 Author #205 Posted March 25, 2009 no,... there is room, unless your mechanical sending unit is taller than mine.....
SilvrT Posted March 25, 2009 #206 Posted March 25, 2009 no,... there is room, unless your mechanical sending unit is taller than mine..... Looking at the pic of yours (the electrical one), yes, mine is taller if I use the non-fouler also. I would then have the non-fouler, the modified adapter, the fitting from the kit and then the sending unit. Take away the non-fouler, and mine would be about the same height. (methinks)
jlh3rd Posted March 25, 2009 Author #207 Posted March 25, 2009 yeh.....my bad......the non fouler is just used to cut new threads in a brass adapter..THEN that adapter is screwed into the cylinder head.......
bikerjohn Posted March 25, 2009 #208 Posted March 25, 2009 send info on what 3 gauages and how to install, what kit to mount face plates. Thanks
SilvrT Posted March 26, 2009 #210 Posted March 26, 2009 yeh.....my bad......the non fouler is just used to cut new threads in a brass adapter..THEN that adapter is screwed into the cylinder head....... eh? .. what bad? it's all good! Well, thanks to you and your suggestion to use a rubber O-ring, I'm happy to report that I no longer have a coolant leak! What a great thread this was.. extremely informant and helpful! What a great bunch of guys... thanks all of you!
Guest Lightnen Posted March 26, 2009 #211 Posted March 26, 2009 Well fellow's I think I've come across another problem at least here that is. Problem is I've got power on that extra wire that was an exzillory wire. Lets see, I cut the two wires about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the white plug and added the possitive side of Amp gauge, now the wires left I put to negitive side of amp gauge with this extra wire for exzillory (whitch I put a 6 gang fuse panel. Now I just hooked up my saddle rail lights and fliped the switch and they came on. Hmmmmmm I thought this extra wire would be governed my the main key switch whitch it is not. Now I'm wondering if this is hooked up right or did I blow or short out the plug wires perhaps..
V7Goose Posted March 26, 2009 #212 Posted March 26, 2009 If you hooked up the wires exactly like I described in the tech article, the aux power wire will always be hot - you use it for anything that you would ordinarily want to connect directly to the battery. If you want the circuit to be switched with the key, like with driving lights, run the power to a light relay and have the relay energized from the existing headlight circuit. I probably would not connect low current draw running lights to that aux circuit - nothing wrong with that, but just not necessary. Instead, connect extra LED lights to the existing bike light circuits at the plug behind the battery. Goose
Guest Lightnen Posted March 27, 2009 #213 Posted March 27, 2009 Ok got ya there Goose, think I've got a handle on this now. Should have used a meter on this first. Did a test run last night and found that my fan does come on around 220 Degrees which is good to know.. Just a hopping I don't spring any leaks.. LOL
Ponch Posted April 1, 2009 #214 Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) I thought I would try to flush mount mine. I like it. I used 1/8" 2024 Aluminum plate and massaged it to fit in the cassette door opening, polished the face and secured it from behind using the cassette player mounting holes. Edited August 5, 2016 by Freebird
Cougar Posted April 1, 2009 #215 Posted April 1, 2009 Now that Rocks I LIKE THAT! and what is the 2024 number mean and why? Polish better? Thanks, Jeff
Freebird Posted April 1, 2009 #216 Posted April 1, 2009 Very nice. This mod gets better all the time. I may have to take a closer look at mine the next time I have things apart.
Ponch Posted April 1, 2009 #217 Posted April 1, 2009 what is the 2024 number mean and why? Polish better? Thanks, Jeff Naw, its just the grade we have at work. There are a lot of different grades. 2024 and 7075 machine very well. 6061 is a little softer but welds better. Ponch
gunboat Posted April 1, 2009 #218 Posted April 1, 2009 hi david great looking set up, white face gauges to go with white bike. love it, now where is the tack? best reguards don c.
jlh3rd Posted April 2, 2009 Author #220 Posted April 2, 2009 yep, i was hoping someone would do that........i bet the entire assembly doesn't run over $75, including gauges....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc.
Ponch Posted April 2, 2009 #221 Posted April 2, 2009 yep, i was hoping someone would do that........i bet the entire assembly doesn't run over $75, including gauges....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc. Have had a little set back involving non-bike issues. (Pesky Honey-do's) When I get it all back together, I'll shoot a couple more pics.
Ponch Posted April 8, 2009 #223 Posted April 8, 2009 ....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc. Finally got it all back together. Don't they know its riding seaon? These chores eventually gotta take a back seat to riding. Anyway here's some shots of it put back together.
Cougar Posted April 8, 2009 #224 Posted April 8, 2009 Don, Can you take this Entire Thread and place into the TECH Section soon? There are so many great idea's and folks have there different ways that I think it would be good just to place the whole damn thing into it. That way when I proceed one day with this , I will be able to look back and find it. I have all my parts laying on the work bench now *lol* And sure enough if I start the project it will get sunny and warm for riding Jeff
Cougar Posted April 8, 2009 #225 Posted April 8, 2009 Awesome Job Ponch! I will be doing the same thing I believe. I like how the plate fits right into that space WELL DONE! very professional! Jeff
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