jlh3rd Posted March 15, 2009 Author #151 Posted March 15, 2009 midrsv i know that everyone that sells electrical sensors says not to wrap the threads because you need the grounding contact i'm here to tell you that i don't wrap all the threads, but i do wrap the last couple of threads , and the gasket, and i've had no problems with the gauge working and no leaks......i wrapped all the threads of the adapters for the oil i did this for the venture and i did it for my harley when i added an oil temp gauge. for others adding gauges........discounthydralic hose and egauges sell all kinds of adapters and bushings but the only adapter that works for water temp is the non fouler. the discount adapter gasket is too big and the egauges adapter you can't get your socket on......there is a recessed boss where the plug is that distorts the gasket and stops your socket you can take the gasket off of the non fouler and put it on the discounthyd. adapter,but why do that you can use the 18mm adapter from egauges that will screw into the non fouler which saves you the step of cutting your own threads i spent more money than needed to.......all i ended up using was the 20mm adapter( discounthyd.), a reducing bushing ( egauges) in that for the oil.........and then the 18mm ( egauges) in the nonfouler
jlh3rd Posted March 15, 2009 Author #152 Posted March 15, 2009 i don't know if this is allowed........but my home phone is 717-774-3914..........for questions about this install...........
Freebird Posted March 15, 2009 #153 Posted March 15, 2009 I used mechanical gauges so the grounding wasn't an issue. I also used Permatex thread sealer on the threads. I did mine as Goose did in that I only used the non-foulder to form the threads on the adapter and like him, I used the gasket from the non-fowler also. As for getting a socket on things, I had no problem but you MUST remove the chrome covers from the valve covers to do so. They are easy to remove, only a couple of allen head bolts.
Midrsv Posted March 15, 2009 #154 Posted March 15, 2009 The problem with the adapter from egauges.com was that it was very thin. Once screwed into the hole it didn't have enough height to rise above the shoulder around the hole. So I pulled it and used the non-fouler method only I didn't use any thread compound, only the spark plug gasket. I've looked at it this morning and my leak is coming from the small diameter sending unit. I've pulled it and placed some thread compound on it that is good for steam lines. I checked the resistance afterwards and I still have a good ground. It's running in the garage now so I should know in a few minutes if that fixed my problem. Dennis
Ponch Posted March 15, 2009 #155 Posted March 15, 2009 I haven't seen this much positive response to a tech (or any other) thread in a while. Thanks to Goose for planting the seed and Jlh3rd for hitting the ground running. I know many are going to pursue this installation. Has anyone been able to find an 1 1/2" ammeter for sale by itself? I've seen them in a 3 gauge set, but I already bought a set that didn't have the ammeter so I just need the ammeter. I am thinking about adding the Dakota Digital tach in this cluster ($159.00 ). [attach]28241[/attach] Thanks, Ponch
Cougar Posted March 15, 2009 #156 Posted March 15, 2009 Kent, I am wondering what the heck those large round objects are used for in your write-up ? one looks like a cut off muffler. I Just had to ask... Jeff
Midrsv Posted March 15, 2009 #157 Posted March 15, 2009 I got my leak repaired. I just pulled all of the fittings and used thread compound on all. See photos at http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=312542#post312542 Dennis
V7Goose Posted March 16, 2009 #158 Posted March 16, 2009 Kent, I am wondering what the heck those large round objects are used for in your write-up ? one looks like a cut off muffler. I Just had to ask... Jeff Those are the pieces I used to fabricate mounting cans for the gauges on my 07. They are both exhaust parts I found by just taking the gauges in to an auto parts store and manually testing the fit in various pieces of pipe. I use the chrome exhaust tip to make the mount for the ammeter on the handlebar where the chrome was important. I used the galvanized exhaust pipe to make a couple of cans to weld together and mount under the dash for the other two gauges. Goose
Cougar Posted March 16, 2009 #159 Posted March 16, 2009 Very good Goose! You do good work my friend. You are always thinking! Jeff
SilvrT Posted March 16, 2009 #160 Posted March 16, 2009 I used mechanical gauges so the grounding wasn't an issue. I also used Permatex thread sealer on the threads. I did mine as Goose did in that I only used the non-foulder to form the threads on the adapter and like him, I used the gasket from the non-fowler also. As for getting a socket on things, I had no problem but you MUST remove the chrome covers from the valve covers to do so. They are easy to remove, only a couple of allen head bolts. Don (or anyone) ... dumb question... Did you tighten the adapter down on the head before you screwed in the adapter that comes with the kit (the one going between the "home-made" adapter and the sending unit) ...?? What kind of socket did you use? I measured them to be 7/8" and it looks like it should be a thin-walled 12 point and NOT a deep socket (I got a deep socket but it's too long but I don't have the other)
jlh3rd Posted March 16, 2009 Author #161 Posted March 16, 2009 i used the 18mm adapter from egauges ( brass 18mm male threads, rubber o-ring, female 1/8 pipe threads)...i tightened this fitting into the non fouler, then i installed this into the cylinder head......my socket fit over the brass adapter onto the non fouler's hex head.....then i installed the sender unit................i wrapped the last couple of threads on the non fouler and the sending unit......my gauge is electrical so i don't wrap all the threads, just the last few......be sure and remove the chrome covers to get better access.... i just used standard sockets ..no thin wall......i don't remember the size......i don't think i even used a long socket.......but what i did usedid fit
SilvrT Posted March 17, 2009 #162 Posted March 17, 2009 Don't route the nylon oil line too close to the exhaust! (why do I know this?) Wondering...has anyone used a copper line instead of the nylon one?
mraf Posted March 17, 2009 #163 Posted March 17, 2009 OK I have suffered through this post about you 2nd genners putting gauges on your precious 2nd gens. Enough already! This post being here in the watering hole is the reason that the 2nd gens {Tech section} never gets OVER the 1gens numbers in the tech section. FOUL! Enough already that you finally have something to look at besides that 50ish dash! Tape a air mattress to your dash and let the rest of you 2nd genners BS about that for 100 million years too. Yeah, now your kocking on the Goldwings door! OH YEAH!!!!!!!!
SilvrT Posted March 17, 2009 #164 Posted March 17, 2009 OK I have suffered through this post about you 2nd genners putting gauges on your precious 2nd gens. Enough already! This post being here in the watering hole is the reason that the 2nd gens {Tech section} never gets OVER the 1gens numbers in the tech section. FOUL! Enough already that you finally have something to look at besides that 50ish dash! Tape a air mattress to your dash and let the rest of you 2nd genners BS about that for 100 million years too. Yeah, now your kocking on the Goldwings door! OH YEAH!!!!!!!! Funny... I envisioned the addition of the gauges to be more like a Harley! :rasberry: :witch_brew:
Cougar Posted March 17, 2009 #165 Posted March 17, 2009 Did you ever take any final mounting pictures kind sir?
Freebird Posted March 18, 2009 #166 Posted March 18, 2009 No, I actually didn't do anything at all. I saw a chance to do some riding and decided I wanted to get everything back together. For now, I just used a long nylon tiewrap and ran it through the "U" that holds the gauges into the face place. I used one on each of the outer gauges and then just looped them through the holes in the existing plastic box that the cassette used to slide into. Got a nice ride in over the weekend and it worked fine. Maybe I'll do something more permanent the next time I'm in the fairing.
SilvrT Posted March 18, 2009 #167 Posted March 18, 2009 Don't route the nylon oil line too close to the exhaust! (why do I know this?) Wondering...has anyone used a copper line instead of the nylon one? OK, now that the first oil line got too close to the exhaust and popped a leak and got oil all over my garage floor, here's what I did to prevent that from ever happening again. Purchased new oil line (same kind) Purchased a 3 ft length of brake line just the right size to slide the new oil line into (had to cut to fit). Routed the brake line down the frame and in-behind existing wire loom, ending just before the brass fitting. Secured the brake line at the bottom using an " I " beam curtain rod hangar (slightly modified) and zap strap. Zap strapped the brake line to the frame just above the air cleaner. Slid the oil line down the brake line tube. Pics of completed project including my new gauges.
Cougar Posted March 18, 2009 #168 Posted March 18, 2009 Very Smart Idea! I will do that as well. perfect. thanks. Jeff
Guest Lightnen Posted March 18, 2009 #169 Posted March 18, 2009 OK, now that the first oil line got too close to the exhaust and popped a leak and got oil all over my garage floor, here's what I did to prevent that from ever happening again. Purchased new oil line (same kind) Purchased a 3 ft length of brake line just the right size to slide the new oil line into (had to cut to fit). Routed the brake line down the frame and in-behind existing wire loom, ending just before the brass fitting. Secured the brake line at the bottom using an " I " beam curtain rod hangar (slightly modified) and zap strap. Zap strapped the brake line to the frame just above the air cleaner. Slid the oil line down the brake line tube. Pics of completed project including my new gauges. Say SilvrT, just wondering if you could tell me if you could see or get at the temp sensor as well when you were sliding that brake line into possition. I haven't gotten around to get into this gauge project as yet but I also need to check the temp sensor for I think my is faulty have never hear my fan come on. At present I'm installing LED's around my saddle bag rails hope to be done this either late today or tomorrow..
SilvrT Posted March 18, 2009 #170 Posted March 18, 2009 Say SilvrT, just wondering if you could tell me if you could see or get at the temp sensor as well when you were sliding that brake line into possition. I haven't gotten around to get into this gauge project as yet but I also need to check the temp sensor for I think my is faulty have never hear my fan come on. At present I'm installing LED's around my saddle bag rails hope to be done this either late today or tomorrow.. I honestly can't answer that ... no idee where the stock temp sensor is...surely someone will answer you. As for hearing the fan...according to all I've read about this, one never hears it and you only know if it's on by either watching it closely or feeling a rush of heat when it fires up. I haven't run mine long enuf at standstill to check the fan...yet.
Guest Lightnen Posted March 18, 2009 #171 Posted March 18, 2009 Ok thanks there SilvrT, I know the fan sensors on right side according to drawings but haven't dug into it as yet. Its some where's near the top of rad, hose connections I thinks.. lol I know my 85 Venture ya could hear it come on when at ideal for 5mins. after a run of a few miles but like I say I haven't heard this RSV I have now come on and then I've only had it sense last Aug. Just hate to frie anything.. lol
SilvrT Posted March 18, 2009 #172 Posted March 18, 2009 Ok thanks there SilvrT, I know the fan sensors on right side according to drawings but haven't dug into it as yet. Its some where's near the top of rad, hose connections I thinks.. lol I know my 85 Venture ya could hear it come on when at ideal for 5mins. after a run of a few miles but like I say I haven't heard this RSV I have now come on and then I've only had it sense last Aug. Just hate to frie anything.. lol dunno what year yours is but mine is still under warranty so I figgure, if it overheats, then Yamaha can fix it...but then again, I'm curious so I'll be looking for it to come on when I do my final testing of the gauges while it's sitting still. heh.. I'm so leery now from when the oil line popped a leak that I'm gonna check it real good before I take a ride...and even then, I think I'll carry a spare oil line and compression fittings LOL.
Guest Lightnen Posted March 18, 2009 #173 Posted March 18, 2009 Well I don't think you'll have a problem now with the plastic line covered I'd say thats a great Idea for sure.. I've got a braded line I'd picked up a while back and never used it I might try to modifie it to blend in on mine. I was checking on the net to see what temp 50/50 mix antifreeze would boil at but there are so many kinds now adays and we don't use all that much in our bikes but I would say its safe anything below 240F.
saddlebum Posted March 18, 2009 #174 Posted March 18, 2009 Now that is what Yama should do to replace the Lame cassete deck that NO ONE uses. how much and do you make house calls? Whoa just hold on ther buddy I love my cassette its the only place i get to play all my collection of oldies but goodies
Guest Lightnen Posted March 19, 2009 #175 Posted March 19, 2009 Ok people I thought I had a good handle on this installation of these gauges, well I just opened up the fairing and shuttered. I'm lost! ! ! Now I've checked the service manual and nothing on how to get at the casset player, do we remove all frame work that holds the radio/head light or just the radio will do. For I don't want to remove more than neccessary if ya know what I mean. Any help would be appriciated..
Recommended Posts