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Posted

The April/May edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.

 

Penetrating oil .. Average load .. Price per fluid ounce

None ................. 516 pounds ..

WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25

PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35

Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21

Kano Kroil ......... 106 pounds .. $0.75

ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

 

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio).

Posted

The two best penetrating fluids i've used, Triflow which has teflon in it and a wax candle when heated flows thinner?? with heat that attacks rust..

Posted

and just exactly how do you duplicate rusting conditions for a standardized test? I know WD-40 is worthless as a rust penetrater because its a water diplacement...I use PB-blaster at work.

 

I do believe that atf is a fine penetrent. Ive seen old, seized up motors break free with atf poured in the cylinders.

 

"WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt", a name which came from Larsen's laboratory notebook. Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion by displacing water, and arrived at the formula on his 40th try.[1] A common myth is that "WD" stands for "war department". WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion. The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958."

Posted

also, "oil of wintergreen" is an excellent penetrent as well. Getting hard to find because of how toxic it is in pure form, but it works wonders and smells good.

Posted
and just exactly how do you duplicate rusting conditions for a standardized test? I know WD-40 is worthless as a rust penetrater because its a water diplacement...I use PB-blaster at work.

 

I do believe that atf is a fine penetrent. Ive seen old, seized up motors break free with atf poured in the cylinders.

 

"WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt", a name which came from Larsen's laboratory notebook. Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion by displacing water, and arrived at the formula on his 40th try.[1] A common myth is that "WD" stands for "war department". WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion. The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958."

 

This is very interesting... I always thought WD-40 was a type of automotive air conditioning... (Windows Down - 40 miles an hour)

 

:sign20::sign20::sign20::sign just kidding:

Posted
Im trying a new product I had come across with the help of a buddy. Its called CorrosionX. I am currently trying it on my boat trailer.

 

I use CorrosionX on my fishing reels all the time for corrosion prevention. Works great, but i don't think it'll do well as a 'crud buster'. SaltX is another great product for protecting metal from salt water corrosion.

Posted

"also, "oil of wintergreen" is an excellent penetrent as well. Getting hard to find because of how toxic it is in pure form, but it works wonders and smells good."

 

 

 

Is that what's in Marvel Mystery Oil that makes it smell like it does?

 

I also wonder how they created identical, standardized test conditions for each penetrant.

 

Jeremy

Posted
I use CorrosionX on my fishing reels all the time for corrosion prevention. Works great, but i don't think it'll do well as a 'crud buster'. SaltX is another great product for protecting metal from salt water corrosion.

 

I only found out about that stuff just the other day. We do lots of truck and Farm tires here and you would not believe the rust and stuff on these tractors and trucks. A tractor mechanic told me about it and also told me since he started using it he hasnt stripped any studs which is a miracle with the state of the studs on some of these things. Im gonna have to check out the SaltX stuff too. Thanks Condor

Posted

Stanardized tests are common for corrosion.

 

A High Humidity and or a Salt fog chamber (5% salt fog is common)

 

So basicically time and type of chamber, evaluated to a specification, so much rust pits or what ever the spec indicates.

 

I would ASSUME that the bolts were submerged in salt water all at the same time to corrode the parts and them the product indicated (WD-40) was sprayed on and let sit for a specified amout of time and then a break away torque was applied and measured.

"WALLA" a number to throw out to argue about. LOL :soapbox:

 

OTAY?

Bubber

Posted
I use CorrosionX on my fishing reels all the time for corrosion prevention. Works great, but i don't think it'll do well as a 'crud buster'. SaltX is another great product for protecting metal from salt water corrosion.

 

Good ole White Distilled Vinegar works well to kill salts . I use it to flush out my inboard motor on the "Bouncing Bobbers" . Also use it to wash with my leather to kill the salts .

 

I made an adaptor using a specticide sprrayer , inline with my water hose as I flush . You know the ones you hook onto the end of a waterhose . Just add the vinegar and it siphons it into the boat motor's water jacket .

I spray "Liquid Film" on my bare metals on the boat trailer . Might look a little messing and better looking than rust , but heck of a lot cheaper in having to replace trailer parts .

 

Gene

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