constantly loading up

[83VR3711]

I finally gother back on the road and now she is loading up. If I get below 2000 RPMs, then it iwll load up and die. Does anyone have any ideas? I have already restricted the fuel flow from the petcock. I put the petcock half on/half off. It does not seem to help.

[gscbertrand]

Try a 1/3 of a can of Sea Foam.

[Monty]

I ran 4 tanks thru my bike, each with a half can of SeaFoam in it. It's good stuff.

 

Are any plugs fouled?

[83VR3711]

plugs are running hot and have about 55miles on them. I am currently running seafoam. Would bad throttle cables have anything to do with it?

[5bikes]

They are not set right. Did you synch them, floats set right, any plugged ports or jets, diaphrams in good condition, everything put back together right? I would get help from someone (like ME) who knows how to work on carbs. Set everything by the shop/service manual. Throttle cables don't cause your problem.

Loading up usually means running rich, not working under 2k rpm usually means low speed jets plugged. How long did it sit?

[Yammer Dan]

Keep up the Sea-Foam. My 84 did that and it took quite a while to get it cleaned out.

[83VR3711]

it was just recently cleaned by a mechanic. Just got it running since. Should I just keep dealing with it until it slowly works its way through the HEET and Seafoam? The carbs are close on their syn but are not dead on. I was told to get it close and get some miles on it before I get it professionally synced. I had a tear in one diaphram but put some silicone on it and now it seems to have more power than before.

[Ivan]

Silicone and gasoline don't play well together. Not sure how much gasoline will get in teh diaphram area, but I wouldn't trust it. Most people I have heard that repair the diaframs are using "plasti-dip" spray. Also liquid electrical tape may be good too.

 

Personally, I think you can mix too much seafoam in. That stuff has acetone in it I think, which is very volitile. Half a can in a tank of my XS and it noticably effects the running. A whole can, and I start thinking about re-jetting. If you have the fuel loaded up with seafoam and Heet (mostly methyl alcohol) you probably have something that is closer to nitormethane than gasoline. While it may run well in a top fuel dragster, not so much in a normal engine.

 

Also, the extra detergents can start knocking loose stuff from the tank and lines. HEET is not good to rubber. The alcohol dries it out in very short order. You may just have crud in the idle jets. You say the plugs are running hot, which tells me you aren't seeing a lot of black sooty deposits, is that right? This would go along with either theory. Crack your drain screws and let a carb drain into a white plastic cup and look for gunk. Also, there are two rubber plugs in each bowl, Heet would probably do them in pretty quickly. These bikes were made before the government started loading up the fuel with alchol, so they really aren't set up for it. Maybe the ones after 1990 would be, but the first years of them definitely wouldn't be

 

Next thought. You say a mechanic cleaned the carbs. Are you 100% sure he got the jets all in the right places? There are three (IIRC) jets that are the same but different sized for each carb. Not installing them in the right places would cause all kinds of havoc.

 

Just the first few thoughts that came off the top of my head. Hope it helps you some how.

[Yammer Dan]

Heet is pretty harsh stuff for these things. I would stick to the Sea-Foam.

[bobcat]

Before I read that you already looked at your diaphrams I was going to suggest doing so...It still gives the appearance of bad diaphrams..

One time I was checking my diaphrams and they all looked OK until I held them up to a light then I saw several pin holes in each of them so I replaced them...

[83VR3711]

I wouldn't have imagined that bad diaphrams would cause it to basically flood itself while running, but I will definitly give them another look.

[GeorgeS]

When you pull out the Plugs, to check the color of them --- Are All 4 loaded up with carbon, ?????

 

Or just one or two etc etc.

 

IF its a carb problem, then the guy that worked on them maby set something wrong on all 4.

 

OR, Have you checked if the Choke system is going to full shut Off on all 4, ie. have you inspected the choke lever linkage to All 4, ( adjustment )

Anything on that linkage bent or sticking.

 

 

Also, the carbs have the " Enrichment Valve " On each carb, and there is a Diaphrame in there for that valve. Some folks have had problems with those,

I have not. and haven't worked on them, but sombody knows all about that part of the carbs ???

 

---------------------------

 

Have you checked the Ignition Circuit, from the 40 amp Main fuse, thru the Ing On-Off Switch, thru the 15 amp fuse, thru the Run Stop Switch, to the TCI, and To the 4 Ignition Coil Primary windings (((( FOR ANY AMOUNT OF HIGH RESISTANCE )))

 

There should be no more then 4.2 ohms thru that entire circuit. That the Primary coil winding resistance.

 

Why do I ask ?? Escess resistance, will cause Low voltage to the TCI, and Coils. !!

Not good.

 

Have you pulled the Plug OFF the " Pressure Sensor " and cleaned the contacts, its on the same circuit !!! The rubber boot is Vertical, and can collect water !!!!!!

 

Also, the Pressure Sensor, could be sending a BAD Signal, to the TCI, This Varies the Ignition Timeing, not sure if this could cause running Rich. ???

 

 

OK, just throwing a few ideas out there to chew on, ???

[GeorgeS]

Are you useing the Stock, NGK Plugs ???

 

IF Not, get a new set of NGK OEM, Stock plugs.

 

 

Give some more details, as to how it idles, and runs when still cold.

 

And how does it idle and run after engine at full running temp.

 

Try to be more specific, The Guru's here need a few more " Clues " as they say.

 

NOTE: Question, have you been trying to drive the bike with the Cover Removed from the Air Cleaner Box ?????????????????????

 

Thats a No NO !!!!!

[83VR3711]

LOL, no I have not been running with out the air cover. I am using the Champion Copper plugs because I cannot find a socket for the NGKs that will fit in between the cylinders. She idles smooth, right at 1000 RPMs. cold and hot. Upon start up though, I run it at full chock and it instantly is loaded up. I have to get it over 3000 RPMs to blow out the excess fuel. I hope this info helps...

[Dano]

Go to Lowes and pick up a thin-walled Kobalt 12 point 18mm deep well socket. Works perfect to get down in the plug well. Why do you have the choke (enrichment valves) full on at start-up? Didn't your mama tell you if something keeps messing up, don't do it that way anymore?! Mine starts cold without the choke, I let it run for 30 seconds then slowly increase it to first stop. Let it warm up like that for a minute and she's ready to ride.

 

Dan

[83VR3711]

Go to Lowes and pick up a thin-walled Kobalt 12 point 18mm deep well socket. Works perfect to get down in the plug well.

 

Dan

 

 

I will be heading to Lowes today. I finally got the tank and carb bowls drained...the tank came out completely clean. I can't that for the bowls though. I got some black trash out of the #1,3, and 4 carbs. I will put some fresh gas in it and maybe it may improve something or atleast it couldn't hurt

[jasonm.]

it was just recently cleaned by a mechanic. Just got it running since. Should I just keep dealing with it until it slowly works its way through the HEET and Seafoam? The carbs are close on their syn but are not dead on. I was told to get it close and get some miles on it before I get it professionally synced. I had a tear in one diaphram but put some silicone on it and now it seems to have more power than before.

Your mechanic missed something. Either the pilot gas jet(s) are clogged...which causes the bike to die below 2000.Or if rich w/fouled plugs the floats are way off. And the fact you got some black stuff out could mean the rubber jet plugs in these carbs are desolving. The plugs are shown in the service manual.

[83VR3711]

Ok....I drained the fuel tank along with the bowls. I went and bought the 18mm socket from Lowes and it didnt fit. So I wound up just cleaning the ones i had and put them back it. She fired right up and i actually got to ride her to work for the first time.. and then the fun started...... About 5 miles down the road, she died at a red light at a very busy intersection and i was first in line. Luckily I was able to get her started just as it turned green and I was on my way. I was so excited. I got her on the freeway and was up to 70-75 mph. Took the exit (about 15 miles down the road) pulled up to the red light and she died. She could not have picked a worst spot to quit.

 

I got her on the sidewalk and tried to start her. She did start right up, but could not get the rpms above 2800. Any more than that and she would flood out and die. She is still on the side of the road. I will tow her home tonight. I am confused on the problem cuz she is giving mixed symptoms. first she would start and get to 2800 RPMs and start to pop and backfire just before she died. Then after a few more trys, she was acting like she was getting no fuel. she would turn and turn. almost catch but then didnt. My first stop will be to replace the fuel filter. When I drained the tank, I drained it throught the filter. If that doesn't help, then I guess I will tear out the carbs and try another cleaning. Any tips to check prior to a carb pull?

[GeorgeS]

OK, sounds like fuel starvation, my Busa does, that cause the Filters in the fuel line plug up from all the Crap that they put in gas now. But that another story.

 

OK, Another Job, you have to cover, In Addition to Just Draining the Fuel tank.

 

Sorry, !! ( I really am )

 

Drain the Tank Again !! --- Then Remove the Petcock Aseembly from bottom right side of tank.

 

WHY??

 

There are Screens Mounted on top of the Petcock, I think they are Pluged,

 

Only way to get to them is Drop out the Petcock assembly, Also remove the Fuel sender Unit from top of the tank and Clean out the tank.

 

 

Most likley you will have to order parts, and Rebuild the Petcock Assembly !!

 

----- DON'T tear into the carbs again, untill you do this job !! I think the bottom of your tank has a lot of

Solid, Crud at bottom of the tank !!!!!

[83VR3711]

So......how do I clean the tank and what parts would I need to order when I replace/fix the petcock? Where (besides the dealer) do you think would be the best place to order the parts from (keeping cost in mind)?

[GeorgeS]

Only place I know of is order from Yamaha. The parts for the petcock must be ordered individually.

 

Look in the IPC on line. Yamaha motor company.

 

You will see the Screens that stick up into the tank, I think they might be plugged !

 

There is a gasket, and I think some seals.

 

Remove the petcock, remove the quantity Sensor plate from top of tank, and clean out the tank.

[83VR3711]

So I got her towed home. WHen she arrived, she fired up and I drove her into the garage. I then commenced to draining the bowls repetitivley until all of the black stuff was gone from all 4 carbs. I then pulled the fuel line from the back of the fuel pump and turned the petcok on. She had full gravity flow through the fuel filter and the petcock screen. Put it all back together and fired up. All seemed good at first until it started loading up again after a few minutes with the back firing and the inability to increase above 3000 RPMs. SO is my next step to tear into the carbs again? Also the fuel pump is operating correctly. After it dies, and you turn the kill switch off, the fuel pumps makes the "full" sound instead of the clicking noise when it is filling the carbs.

[1 Canuck]

After reading your posts, I feel your frustration. Is it a starvation problem or is it flooding problem? Without seeing or touching it, from what you say, it may be and likely is flooding? I have rebuilt quite a few carbs over the years, but have never had the Venture carbs apart.

One set of carbs that did stump me was on a Virago. I had them off about 4 times and could find nothing. Clean ports, set correctly, clean diaphram with no pin holes, and the floats... floated in the fuel. Out of frustration I replaced the needle and seats, even though I knew they weren't badly worn. What did catch my eye on my final carb assembly, was that there were slight wear marks on the side of one bowl. One float was hanging up! That was the problem. With a slight adjustment it was fixed!

I have seen many people replace floats which fixed their problem, but a good chance it was doing the same thing...hanging up or down on the bowl. Maybe both.

 

Now about the black stuff coming from your fuel bowls. If you say the inside of the fuel tank, screens and petcock are clean, then my only suggestion would be the fuel hose may be deteriorating or it isn't the proper fuel hose being used?

 

Sorry for jabbering on so long. Just some thoughts, but I really hope they can help.

[Dano]

The stock number on the Kobalt socket I have is 22838. Thin wall 12 point 18mm socket.

[83VR3711]

I think I may have finally figured out the problem. I finally broke down and pulled the carbs. Come to find out, when the mechanic cleaned them last he forgot to put the screw (#28 on parts list for carb) that goes into the Main Nozzle of the #2 Carb back in. he had just set in the nozzle without screwing it down.

 

Do you think that this could have been the root of all of my heart ache or should I keep looking?