jimmyenglish Posted April 2, 2009 #1 Posted April 2, 2009 So I rebuilt my slave cylinder on my 86' tonight. The kit came with a new pushrod seal. I mildly (without destroying) played with trying to get it out and eventually gave up. I'm assuming it gets wrecked taking it off. So how do you remove this seal? Thanks!
bongobobny Posted April 2, 2009 #2 Posted April 2, 2009 You're right, it usualy gets destroyed removing it. In the center it goes into a recess on the pushrod/piston and can be removed with a pick or jeweler's screwdriver.Once you get the rubber out of the groove then the bottom is just a force fit so just pull it out to access the circlip to remove the guts of the unit... If possible, it is a good idea to hone out the cylander before reassembling, and take the time to clean the unit with solvent and make sure the little passageway in the bottom of the resovior is clear.
Venturous Randy Posted April 2, 2009 #3 Posted April 2, 2009 It sounds to me like you are talking about the seal that goes in the engine that the pushrod goes thru, not in the slave cylinder itself. Usually it is just a matter of sticking a screw driver in the center and catching a lip and prying it out. It is not usually hard to get out, but is a bit tough to get to back in the recess. If you have it that far apart and you have messed with the seal at all, you need to replace it. I had one start leaking and wished I had fixed it when I did the 2nd gear repair. Not usually a tough job, but a bit aggrivating. RandyA
bongobobny Posted April 2, 2009 #4 Posted April 2, 2009 Oops, my bad, my mind read Clutch MASTER cylander, not slave... It's heck getting old!
jimmyenglish Posted April 4, 2009 Author #5 Posted April 4, 2009 Thanks for the info guys. The motor is in the bike. It's pretty tough to get to with the motor in frame. I guess I'll wait till it starts leaking. It looked ok and wasn't leaking. Fixed the slave and it's tight. Thanks again!
jasonm. Posted April 4, 2009 #6 Posted April 4, 2009 My best advice....If it ain't leaking...DON'T mess with it.
Dano Posted April 4, 2009 #7 Posted April 4, 2009 If I'm not mistaken, doesn't it have the locator pin on it? That means you would have to split the case to replace it. If'n I remember correctly! A lot of those seals did. Dan
Rocket Posted April 4, 2009 #8 Posted April 4, 2009 If I'm not mistaken, doesn't it have the locator pin on it? That means you would have to split the case to replace it. If'n I remember correctly! A lot of those seals did. Dan The piece behind the seal, has a locator pin, not the seal itself (seen it 2 weeks ago). The seal can be changed, in frame if needed.
Dano Posted April 4, 2009 #9 Posted April 4, 2009 The piece behind the seal, has a locator pin, not the seal itself (seen it 2 weeks ago). The seal can be changed, in frame if needed. Thanks Rocket, has been a year since I've been in there......
Peder_y2k Posted August 3, 2013 #10 Posted August 3, 2013 So I rebuilt my slave cylinder on my 86' tonight. The kit came with a new pushrod seal. I mildly (without destroying) played with trying to get it out and eventually gave up. I'm assuming it gets wrecked taking it off. So how do you remove this seal? Thanks! Easy removal. Use a sharp point to puncture a small hole in face of seal, then use a 1/8" dia. sheet metal screw. Start the screw in the punched hole, and keep turning. The screw point will thread into the hole and then contact the back metal and the seal will follow/climb the screw threads right out of the hole. This was easier than I thought, as I had planned to use a slide hammer to pull the screw, but when I saw the seal comming out just by turning the screw, the mission was accomplished. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
dingy Posted August 3, 2013 #11 Posted August 3, 2013 Easy removal. Use a sharp point to puncture a small hole in face of seal, then use a 1/8" dia. sheet metal screw. Start the screw in the punched hole, and keep turning. The screw point will thread into the hole and then contact the back metal and the seal will follow/climb the screw threads right out of the hole. This was easier than I thought, as I had planned to use a slide hammer to pull the screw, but when I saw the seal comming out just by turning the screw, the mission was accomplished. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA I think he has it covered by now, last post prior to yours was in 2009. You are far from the 1st to reply to an ancient thread though. Usually it is the newbies that are searching through site and do it. Gary
Peder_y2k Posted August 3, 2013 #12 Posted August 3, 2013 I saw the dates, but posted anyway for readers doing a search. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
Donvito Posted August 3, 2013 #13 Posted August 3, 2013 Thanks for the info Peder. Very often, while reading a thread, you don't find out what solved the problem. There are no posts explaining what the cause and solution were. The person who initiated the thread is just satisfied that his bike is fixed and doesn't think to post the resolution.
Huggy Posted August 3, 2013 #14 Posted August 3, 2013 Can you remove the push rod to take out the seal????? Mines leaking and it looks like a metal washer is covering the seal!
dingy Posted August 3, 2013 #15 Posted August 3, 2013 Can you remove the push rod to take out the seal????? Mines leaking and it looks like a metal washer is covering the seal! If you pull the push rod, it must go back in same way. The ends are different, slightly. Gary
Peder_y2k Posted August 3, 2013 #16 Posted August 3, 2013 The clutch end of the push rod is a one-way fit. If one pulls it out a bit when servicing the seal and, or, slave cylinder, then rotating the rod to find the bottom seat is req'd. I wouldn't pull it out in case something inside may 'drop' out of position requiring splitting the case (at worst case), or opening up the clutch. Regarding the seal, it is a rubber coated thin metal cup with the outside surface fitting flush with the engine case. The seal has both an inner seal for the pushrod, plus the perimeter rubber to seal against the engine casting. If there is a washer on the surface of the seal, that should be plainly evident, and easily removed. If the rubber is gone from the seal, it could look like a washer until it rusts. Don't do anything radical until you have the new seal in hand. Post a pic of the 'washer' if you can. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
Huggy Posted August 4, 2013 #17 Posted August 4, 2013 I got it done. pulled rod, removed old seal, put new seal on rod put rod back in, pushed lightly on new seal to seat. Easy as pie once you know how! Thanks for the input.
dingy Posted August 4, 2013 #18 Posted August 4, 2013 See post # 11 in link below for some reference pictures as to internals where push rod goes through. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=80753 Gary
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