Starter clutch

[hdroyer]

Do you have to drain the oil first before you take the cover off?

[Snaggletooth]

Be a good idea unless you have a lot of kitty litter.

[Dano]

Yes. You have to pull the middle gear cover first, then then flywheel cover. You will still get a small amount of oil dribble out, though, so be prepared. Good luck with the job, and ask more questions if you have them.

 

Dan

[hdroyer]

Though so better to ask and make sure.

Thanks, Dale

[Squeeze]

There will be around 0.1 Liter coming from middle Drive Gear Cover and 0.2 - 0. Liter from the Stator Cover when you palce the Bike on the Center Stand. If you put a Piece of Woood underneath the left Leg of the Center Stand and secure the Bike with a Strap or two, there will be almost nothing coming out. Might be a good Idea, because you won't have to fight Gears from the Starter doing what they want.

[hipshot]

i changed my '86 starter clutch out a few months ago, and DIDN'T have to drain the oil.

oil that drips out of the cover , is minimal, if you do it the way Squeeze suggested.

have fun, and don't forget to re-punch the bolts. they WILL back out on their own, and you WILL have to do the job a second time!lol

just jt

[Dano]

Be a good reason to change the oil and filter, though!

[hdroyer]

Do I have to mark the flywheel position.

[Squeeze]

Do I have to mark the flywheel position.

no Sir

[hdroyer]

Any suggestions on getting the flywheel bolt lose man that thing is tight

[GeorgeS]

Make sure you have the correct Metric size wrench, and Socket.

 

As I recall they are 6 Point, don't use 12 points !!!!!!!

 

Also, apply heat with a propane torch !!

You will need heat to get the rotor off with the Puller.

Edited March 27, 2009 by GeorgeS

[Squeeze]

Make sure you have the correct Metric size wrench, and Socket.

 

As I recall they are 6 Point, don't use 12 points !!!!!!!

 

Also, apply heat with a propane torch !!

You will need heat to get the rotor off with the Puller.

 

PLEASE no Torch to the Flywheel, this might ruin the Magnets. If you can't help at all, use a electric Heat Gun and warm only the inner Hub Part.

 

 

You nee a 32mm box Wrench to hold the Rotor and a 19mm or 24mm Socket for the Bolt Head. I use a 12 Point Socket without any Problems so far. But use a T-Handle and a Tube for Extension. This Bolt is tightened with 130 Nm, so eat some Spinache before attacking ...

[hdroyer]

I got the flywheel off, the bolts to the clutch are tight I inspected the clutch on the flywheel and don't See any cracks should I just replace the #2 gear springs caps an dowels.

[Rocket]

I got the flywheel off, the bolts to the clutch are tight I inspected the clutch on the flywheel and don't See any cracks should I just replace the #2 gear springs caps an dowels.

 

Take a closer look in the spring & cap holes, if I remember correctly, any cracks are usually on the side against the rotor.

[hdroyer]

What is the best way to remove the gasket from the left engine and rear case

[mbrood]

Pep Boys has a spray cleaner that is designed for OLD, BAKED ON gasket removal... I had already gone over mine in the tedious old fashion with a razor blade before I spotted it when I went there for oil...

 

Never seen or heard of it before but if it works at all, it's got to be great!

 

Mike

[Squeeze]

Pics of the dismounted Parts would be great if you want an Opinion.

[hdroyer]

As soon as the knocking sound started I Quit running the bike

[Squeeze]

This doesn't look too bad.

 

There are some flat Areas on the Rollers, the Contact Area to the Rollers on the 72th Wheel doesn't look too bad either.

 

 

Well, i sincerely don't know what to say. Depends on what you're doing with the Bike. If this is a daily Commuter, I'd not hesitate to undo the three Bolts and inspect the copper colored Part underneath the round Sheet Metal. They break once in a while and you will have to this again very soon.

 

If you only use the Bike on/off throughout the Season you can replace the Rollers, Springs and Dowels.

 

I know a Lot of Guys which tried to be smart (and cheap) and just replaced these Parts and came back within a Time Frame from four Weeks to 3 Months.

 

If i where you, you have most of the Job right now and for the Peace of Mind and for not possibly doing this again very soon, I'd go for the complete Set including the Wheel. You don't need the Housing if it's not broken now. But saving the Money for the Wheel and three Bolts isn't worth doing it again. If you need to come back soon, you will need the Wheel and new Parts anyway. Gasket should be save able. But when you have Time to spend anyway and actually like to turn a Wrench, why not ? ( I'm not playing Devil's Advocate here, just telling it the Way i see it)

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Squeeze,

 

I'm following along on this as I start this project when my upgrade stator arrives. When you refer to replacing the "wheel" are you referring to the 72 th idler or something else?

 

Thanks.

 

Mike

[Squeeze]

Hey Squeeze,

 

I'm following along on this as I start this project when my upgrade stator arrives. When you refer to replacing the "wheel" are you referring to the 72 th idler or something else?

 

Thanks.

 

Mike

 

 

Yes, that's what i'm talking about, the 72 th Gear Wheel or Idler Gear. Pic#2 in hdroyer's Pics above.

[Guest Ron Brown]

Do I need a new flywheel? same conditions.....turn and zing!!!