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Posted

Hey Folks,

 

 

Got the RSV tore apart doing some maintenance and adding a few things. I have installed a fuse block, front and rear modulators, front fork air pressure balance kit, speed bleeders, fresh fluids, a Stebel horn, lubed the rear suspension (except for the swingarm bearings - will get that at next tire change), put new avons venoms on, tightened the stearing head, and rewired the light bar so that it is on when the dims are.

 

Have yet to install a rear led light strip and the Kisan ChargeGuard. My question about the kisan is they state in their installation instructions that all the ground wires should be connected to the copper shunt on the neg post of the battery. Does this literally mean all the wired grounds on the bike? I have grounds located on several places on the frame. Do I have to rewire so that they are all connected to the shunt?

 

This is the installation information from the Kisan site:

 

CURRENT SENSOR

The Current Sensor is an

Integrated Copper Shunt,

which mounts on the

 

NEGATIVE

(Ground) battery

 

post.

 

Shunt is rated for 100 Amps

 

MAX current

 

The power wire attached to

 

the shunt must be connected

to the

 

positive battery post or

 

a 12v source.

INSTALLING CURRENT SENSOR:

 

Remove ALL cables from

 

the

 

NEGATIVE (Ground) post

 

of the battery.

 

Attach ALL ground cables

 

to the shunt as shown here,

with the nut & bolt supplied.

 

Now you can re-attach the

 

other eyelet of the shunt on

the Ground post of the battery,

using the original bolt.

Note!

 

The orientation of the Left/Right eyelets is important to keep

correct Input/Output of the current flow.

 

Thanks in advance for all the help,

 

Jinksy

Posted

I have one also and they mean all the grounds that would go to the battery post. connect the shunt to the post and the other end to the battery. Also be careful as there is a wire on the shunt that goes to the + side of the battery. This is how it measures the Volts and amps.

Posted

I am not an elctrician and am learning from the information you folks have given me.

 

To connect all the grounds to the battery post (as your last post said) - does that mean I would have to make a long ground wire and splice all the grounds (from the Stebel horn, front light bar, rear light bar, etc.) to that main ground and take it back to the negative side of the shunt on the battery negative post?

 

Thanks for your input,

 

Jinksy

Posted

I would hook all the wires to where the battery ground wire connects to the frame!!!!!

 

Makes it a LOT easier to replace the battery without a lot of extra wires hooked to it.

 

 

Also, if you hook all the ground wires to the same point you are less likley to induce a ground loop.

Posted

Thanks for the reply guys. Did not understand what a ground loop was and had to do some research, but got it now.

 

Jinksy

Guest tx2sturgis
Posted (edited)

Hey Jinsky...your 'over thinking' this one. For the ground connection on that chargeguard, all you have to do is:

 

Remove the ground screw on the battery.

 

Remove the battery ground cable and any other ground wires that you have attached to it.

 

Attach the main ground cable and those other ground wires ( if any ) to the proper end of the shunt.

 

Attach the other end of the shunt back to the negative battery post and install the screws and tighten.

 

If you live or ride where humidity is a factor, I would add a bit of battery post treatment...such as dialectric grease.

 

The grounds for the horns, lights, and anything else you have added, ALL pass thru the shunt, and get measured this way (no matter where you actually attached the ground wires on the item). If you have something that for whatever reason, you DONT want to measure with the chargeguard, you would ground that particular item to the battery post directly.

 

Hope this helps...

 

Edited by tx2sturgis
Posted

That really give me a good picture of how the ground works. After I thought about what you said I went out and ckecked resistance from the front ground to the frame and the negative post of the battery and it was about 1 ohm. Wish I would have figured that out before making new wiring harnesses and taking the grounds back to the battery and engine. Sometimes I just got to laugh cause I can't kick myself in the butt.

 

Appreciate your insight,

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