iridedou Posted March 22, 2009 #1 Posted March 22, 2009 I've searched the forum and see many references to using the wrong engine oil (energy conserving type) which may cause clutch slipping. If this is the case, are you saying that just changing the oil (and filter) to the correct type will clear up the problem? Is the slip something you would notice at the higher rpms(5k+) in higher gears?
GeorgeS Posted March 22, 2009 #2 Posted March 22, 2009 How many miles on the bike, how bad is is slipping ?
BOO Posted March 22, 2009 #3 Posted March 22, 2009 I've searched the forum and see many references to using the wrong engine oil (energy conserving type) which may cause clutch slipping. If this is the case, are you saying that just changing the oil (and filter) to the correct type will clear up the problem? Is the slip something you would notice at the higher rpms(5k+) in higher gears? When the clutch slips for just about any reason it will be while the bike is in one of the higher gears. I don't use any of the synthetic oils and I'm not so sure that just changing the oil will immediately make the clutch quit slipping. It make take several oil changes or you might even need to take the clutch apart and clean up the fiber plates. Boo
Venturous Randy Posted March 22, 2009 #4 Posted March 22, 2009 If I were you I would check on the heavy duty replacement springs, They cost about $10 and unless someone has glued the gasket on, you can ususally get by with just pulling it off. Just do it on the side stand and you will not loose any oil. Just take them off one at a time and the only difference you will feel is your clutch will be a little stiffer. The vast majority of times when you check the clutch plates they will be in spec. RandyA
iridedou Posted March 22, 2009 Author #5 Posted March 22, 2009 How many miles on the bike, how bad is is slipping ? Only 48k miles on it and in 300 miles of cold weather riding I only noticed it once at 5k rpm in 5th gear when I accelerated hard while passing a semi on the highway. I changed the oil and filter when I 1st got it and put in an AutoParts store brand 10w-40 dino oil that didn't say anything about "energy conserving" on the jug.
Squidley Posted March 22, 2009 #6 Posted March 22, 2009 It would more than likely take a couple of oil changes to rid the engine of any suspected wrong oil. You may need to look into changing out the springs as many bikes, both 1st & 2nd gens seem to develope a slipping around the miles you have, depending on how they were ridden. Make sure you have the proper oil 1st, if it doesn't go away I would statrt to look into upgrading the clutch with springs.
GeorgeS Posted March 22, 2009 #7 Posted March 22, 2009 Only 48k miles on it and in 300 miles of cold weather riding I only noticed it once at 5k rpm in 5th gear when I accelerated hard while passing a semi on the highway. I changed the oil and filter when I 1st got it and put in an AutoParts store brand 10w-40 dino oil that didn't say anything about "energy conserving" on the jug. I think a simple Replacement of the Clutch Springs would solve the problem. Cheap, and easy to do, one set springs, and a new gasket. OR: Install a Barnett Pressure Plate. See the 1st Gen " Maint Library " Easy to do, takes a couple hours or less of work.
RedRider Posted March 22, 2009 #8 Posted March 22, 2009 Only 48k miles on it and in 300 miles of cold weather riding I only noticed it once at 5k rpm in 5th gear when I accelerated hard while passing a semi on the highway. I changed the oil and filter when I 1st got it and put in an AutoParts store brand 10w-40 dino oil that didn't say anything about "energy conserving" on the jug. Where you look for the "energy conserving" info is in the circle. There is a circle that has standards information with wording in the middle circle, in the top outside circle, and the bottom outside circle. "Energy Conserving" will generally be in the bottom outside circle. RR
StarFan Posted March 22, 2009 #9 Posted March 22, 2009 What about running Seafoam through the oil for cleaning up the friction plates? I called Seafoam about a year ago and asked about this and they said it was quite O.K. to do this. Don´t think though that you can substitute the oil with pure Seafoam since I am not sure if Seafoam has any lubricants in it. Has anybody of you guys tried this? Note I would not try this unless I had 100% guidance from Seafoam or somebody with full knowledge. Wouldn´t it be right to assume that in time there would be a build up (thin layer) on the plates from the hot oil seperating that would cause slippage and could/should be cleaned off. Especially if the wrong oil is used? Any thoughts?
Rocket Posted March 22, 2009 #10 Posted March 22, 2009 I think a simple Replacement of the Clutch Springs would solve the problem. Cheap, and easy to do, one set springs, and a new gasket. OR: Install a Barnett Pressure Plate. See the 1st Gen " Maint Library " Easy to do, takes a couple hours or less of work. Just the Barnett springs are needed, as the scoot is a 84 (1200 cc). The pressure plate conversion is for the 86 & up motors (1300 cc). When I changed mine out, there was about 1/2" difference in the uncompressed length, between the old ones & the Barnetts. It cured mine of this problem, was a $20. CDN fix.
iridedou Posted March 23, 2009 Author #11 Posted March 23, 2009 It would more than likely take a couple of oil changes to rid the engine of any suspected wrong oil. You may need to look into changing out the springs as many bikes, both 1st & 2nd gens seem to develope a slipping around the miles you have, depending on how they were ridden. Make sure you have the proper oil 1st, if it doesn't go away I would statrt to look into upgrading the clutch with springs. I realized my mistake in using the last 2 qts of 10w-40 oil I had , and then the remaining 1 1/2 qts added were a 10w-30 that I now realize had an energy conserving stamp on it. I will change out this week with Rotella 15w-40 oil, drain off the filter since it's new and see if I notice a difference. If I pull the clutch plates out and clean up and change the springs at a later time, is there any thing else that needs to be done since the hydraulic clutch lever has no adjustment? The fluid is already cleaned and bled. Any suggestions on where to order the new clutch springs and cover gasket? thanks
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