Starter

[hdroyer]

Yesterday my starter made a loud clunk "bang" noise when i push the start button but not all the time any suggestions what ma be the cause. Is this something I can fix or is a new starter in my future. 83std. Also the spring for the oil filter dose it go on the housing side or the frame side I dropped it when I took it off and not sure where to put it the parts pic looks like it goes to the housing side. Thanks, Dale

Edited March 19, 2009 by hdroyer

[Monty]

There is a spring? I just changed the oil for the 1st time on my newly acquired '83 two days ago. I never saw any spring.

[Squeeze]

The Spring goes between Filter and Filter Housing.

 

 

The clunky Noise was the Starter Clutch loosing Grip and renengaging. Sound slike your banging a small Sledgehammer to the Motor. This needs to be adressed soon, because the three Bolts are loose already and they will will rattle themself loose completely and find a Way into the Guts of the Motor.

 

You'll need the Clutch repair Set which contents three Rollors, three small Springs and three Caps, the 72th Wheel which the Clutch Rollers engage to, three Allen Head Bolts from Yamaha (or M8x25 in Grade 10.9) and Stator and middle Drive Gear Cover Gaskets. If the Clutch Housing isn't broken, you can reuse this.

 

The biggest pita is undoing the Flywheel. You need a fitting universal 3-Leg Puller (Bolts M8x100mm go into the Flywheel) to get it undone. Just make sure to cover the Area where the Flywheel will hit the Ground with a good Portion of Pillions.

 

Other than this, it's a straight forward Job.

[hdroyer]

Thanks, Squeeze I will check on the parts an order them. I found a article in the tech library again thanks to all that make this a great site.

[GeorgeS]

Pull up the IPC, Oil Filter, and you will see the Spring, and Washer, as to how they are installed.

 

2nd Item: Noise when Starting, Clunk, clack !!

 

Sorry but this is not good, and its Not the Starter Motor, causeing the noise. --

 

Pull up the IPC, again,

 

See: Section for " Starter Clutch "

 

On the IPC Drawing, take note of Item #7-- The new clutch unit, and 3 sets of all those little parts shown.

 

Also, 3 new bolts, item # 11

 

Now pull up Section " Generator " of the IPC---

 

See item #2 labled " Rotor " on that IPC section

 

The Starter Clutch, is mounted on the back of the Rotor, which has to be removed to replace the Entire " Starter Engage Clutch " Assembly.

 

 

--- See the 1st gen Maintenance Library Section, for complete details on the job.

 

New batteries might help for a while , new battery might help for awhile, but sooner or later you have to replace the Starter Engage Clutch.

 

Resoldering the Studs on both ends of both battery cables, will also help.

 

The total cost for parts ( the starter clutch ) is about $100.00

[Evan]

The Spring goes between Filter and Filter Housing.

The clunky Noise was the Starter Clutch loosing Grip and renengaging. Sound slike your banging a small Sledgehammer to the Motor. This needs to be adressed soon, because the three Bolts are loose already and they will will rattle themself loose completely and find a Way into the Guts of the Motor.

You'll need the Clutch repair Set which contents three Rollors, three small Springs and three Caps, the 72th Wheel which the Clutch Rollers engage to, three Allen Head Bolts from Yamaha (or M8x25 in Grade 10.9) and Stator and middle Drive Gear Cover Gaskets. If the Clutch Housing isn't broken, you can reuse this.

 

Yesterday, for the first time, I noticed a sound like the starter was slow to turn (like a weak battery) and then it almost immediately seemed to disengage wtih a clunking sound. Normally, my new 88VR starts like a dream. This only happened immediately after I stopped from a high speed run. I tried it again immediately after another run with the same result. If I let the bike stand for a short while, starting returns to normal. Is this more likely to be week battery and/or dirty connections or undersized battery cables? I checked out the connections and they appear clean. I have followed the current thread about replacement battery cables and I was thinking of asking to be put on the list for these cables. Any comments?

 

Evan

[GeorgeS]

When you start to Hear the " Dreaded Starter Clanking Noise " There is only ONE Fix!!

 

Replace the Starter Engage Clutch!! And , Maby the 72 tooth Gear.

 

Those 3 bolts, that hold the clutch to the Rotor, Come LOOSE. They have been found in the bottom of the CrankCase !!! When ReInstalling New Bolts, they need to be " Staked " and Have " Lock Tight " applied to the threads.

 

---USE NEW BOLTS !!!!!!!!! . They are High Tensil Strength bolts, ORDER THEM FROM YAMAHA !!! Make sure you get the right ones.

 

 

Anything that causes the Starter to Spin Slower ( ie. Low Voltage ) caused by anything, weak battery, corroded Cables, Burned contacts in the Start Solinoid, will make it Worse.

All those things need to be fixed !!

 

But, you still have to replace the Starter Clutch. Sorry, thats the bottom line.

[Squeeze]

The Spring goes between Filter and Filter Housing.

 

The clunky Noise was the Starter Clutch loosing Grip and reengaging. Sounds like your banging a small Sledgehammer to the Motor. This needs to be adressed soon, because the three Bolts are loose already and they will will rattle themself loose completely and find a Way into the Guts of the Motor.

You'll need the Clutch repair Set which contents three Rollers, three small Springs and three Caps, the 72th Wheel which the Clutch Rollers engage to, three Allen Head Bolts from Yamaha (or M8x25 in Grade 10.9) and Stator and middle Drive Gear Cover Gaskets. If the Clutch Housing isn't broken, you can reuse this.

 

Yesterday, for the first time, I noticed a sound like the starter was slow to turn (like a weak battery) and then it almost immediately seemed to disengage wtih a clunking sound. Normally, my new 88VR starts like a dream. This only happened immediately after I stopped from a high speed run. I tried it again immediately after another run with the same result. If I let the bike stand for a short while, starting returns to normal. Is this more likely to be week battery and/or dirty connections or undersized battery cables? I checked out the connections and they appear clean. I have followed the current thread about replacement battery cables and I was thinking of asking to be put on the list for these cables. Any comments?

 

Evan

 

If the Starter is weak when hot, most likely a bad Ground inside the Starter is the Culprit.

 

Here the Story and a Description to cure that. http://members.chello.nl/c.cornwall/Startmotor/startmotor.htm

 

This is about a Vmax Starter, but Venture Starter Motors are the very same.

 

I disagree here with George. The 72th Wheel has to be replace also. The Surface Area where the Roller run onto, are Part of the Clutch and they are damaged when the Clutch is clunking.

 

One could probably put the Wheel on a round Grinding Machine and grind some Material off until the Surface is perfect again. but who has such a Grinding Machine or a Buddy with one ?

 

But when you insert the new Rollers into the Clutch Assembly, you place them on a uneven Surface with flat Spots, and they soon will be damaged again. Next Thing is, you gotta consider, the Flywheel is turning all Time(who would have thought that) and the 72th Wheel is in stand still. Which means, the Roller move a Lot of the Time when the Flywheel runs. When you run them on the damaged Surface your basically make them run, tumble, run, tumble .... this is putting a Lot of Stress onto the Springs and they are not designed to take that Stress.

 

So, my Suggestion... You you won't do that Job again soon, replace the 72th Wheel also and be done with it for a long Time.

 

 

Other than this, i fully agree with Georges Comment.

[83VR3711]

I am having the same issue with my starter (same noises). Would ya'll recommend this type of repair for a novice mechanic or would I be better off taking it somewhere?

 

[Squeeze]

I am having the same issue with my starter (same noises). Would ya'll recommend this type of repair for a novice mechanic or would I be better off taking it somewhere?

 

 

 

Do you mean Novice as "can't tell a inch Wrench from metric Socket" or, I've done work on my old Cars, but none on a Motorcycle as of yet ?

[83VR3711]

Lets go with the second one.......have done some minor work on the bike, but am still a little timid. So far I have stripped the bike down to the frame and wires (for a tune up(plug wires are a pain to get to)) and have assisted in a carb cleaning. Other than that, not much else on motorcycles.

[Squeeze]

Lets go with the second one.......have done some minor work on the bike, but am still a little timid. So far I have stripped the bike down to the frame and wires (for a tune up(plug wires are a pain to get to)) and have assisted in a carb cleaning. Other than that, not much else on motorcycles.

 

I'd say you can do that. Maybe you can get the Carb Cleaner to assist you ? Just read the whole Process in the Shop Manual once or twice or even tripple before you get a Head Start. It's not an easy Job, because the Flywheel tends to stick on the Crank and getting this undone is the main Problem. You will need a 32mm flat Box Wrench to hold on the Flywhel while maintaining Pressure to the Center Bolt of the Puller. Just make sure you have all the Parts at Hand, including both Gaskets and a Sealer for the rubber Grommet Area of the Stator Wires. For a first Timer, i'd expect about 3 Hours Work Time, Beer and Smoke Breaks not included.

[frankd]

First the spring, then the washer, then the oil filter. Don't forget about the washer....If you do the rubber grommet on the oil filter will get pushed in and the all the oil will be bypassed. I learned this on my XS-750 when I put the washer on first.