Pinout of the "information display" on the dash

[timgray]

I have my Computer "information display" out for re soldering and I am photographing steps so others can understand this one better. I had only one "cold" solder joint and it in fact did not look cold to me but what happens when you run too much current through a incomplete joint. I am sure that it's the one for the headlight low beam, but would like to confirm it.

 

Does anyone have a pinout of what pin is for what on the unit? The one pin that needed to be re-soldered was all the way to the edge of the connector.

[bryan52577]

I have my Computer "information display" out for re soldering and I am photographing steps so others can understand this one better. I had only one "cold" solder joint and it in fact did not look cold to me but what happens when you run too much current through a incomplete joint. I am sure that it's the one for the headlight low beam, but would like to confirm it.

 

Does anyone have a pinout of what pin is for what on the unit? The one pin that needed to be re-soldered was all the way to the edge of the connector.

 

Not sure if this will help or not. Here is one and here is another. This all sounds like what you are doing?

 

Bryan

[timgray]

Both of those go to an agree, or join us page. they dont go to the actual content of the other sites message-board.

 

I found their resolder instructions but it does not list that pin 1 - headlight, 2 - blinker, 3 - brake light, etc....

 

 

Thanks though!

[bryan52577]

Sorry how is this>

 

Here are the instructions and pictures I took of this. I have a 83 Venture standard and was having the false warnings, dim headlight, and my fuel gauge would go to empty right after filling then back full again. This caused the fuel warning to come on, then go off.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms1.jpg

 

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First remove the windshield trim. (4 screws).

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms2.jpg

 

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Remove the windshield. (4 screws).

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms3.jpg

 

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There are four screws holding the hood in place. I loosened the front ones.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms4.jpg

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Then I removed the rear ones.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms5.jpg

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Then removed the hood.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms6.jpg

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Then using a 10mm wrench and a socket, I removed the 4 nuts and washers holding the instrument cluster.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms7.jpg

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I then unhooked the large connector and 3 smaller wires that connect to the instrument cluster.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms8.jpg

 

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I then disconnected the speedometer cable. I did this last as I could pull up a little on the cluster and get more room to unscrew the cable. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms9.jpg

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I then removed the cluster from the bike. Here is the removed cluster with all the tools I used to remove it.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms10.jpg

 

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Now to remove the CMS from the instrument cluster. I first removed the 4 ourter screws, then the four inner screws.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms11.jpg

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Then you remove the mounting plate.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms12.jpg

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I had to work mine out of there one side at a time. Part of the problem was the wires that connect the two pieces together, and a piece of clear plastic which is to light up the LCD at night. Here is the rear view of the removed unit.

 

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms13.jpg

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And the front view.

 

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms14.jpg

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All you need to do to split this is, remove 4 screws on the back and disconnect the wire between the two units. I used a pencil type soldering iron heated very hot.

 

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms15.jpg

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I soldered both rows where the connector is soldered to the board. The iron is pointing at one row.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms16.jpg

 

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And here it is pointing at the other row.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms17.jpg

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Once completed, just reverse the sequence to put it all back together. Some of the mounting bolts are buried and hard to get to, but if a little patience is used, you can get to them. There are three connectors that I didn't show, and I found those hard to put back together, but again a little patience and they should be fine. Now that I had it all back together, I had to try it out to make sure I had not created a error or problem.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms18.jpg

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It took me about 30 minutes to take the instrument cluster out fo the bike. Removing the CMS from the cluster and soldering took about an hour for me. Putting the cluster back together took about 15 minutes, and returning the cluster to the bike and finishing up took about another 20 minutes. Remember I was taking pictures and taking great care.

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[skydoc_17]

Hey Bryan,

This is an EXCELLENT Write-Up! I am sure I speak for many when I say, Thank You, for taking the time to document this repair. By the way, did it fix your problem? After all that work, I sure hope so!

Earl

Edited March 15, 2009 by skydoc_17
Crayon Broken!

[sgn]

So do you get lights working and all the "false" warnings stopped.

 

Great job on the right up!

[sgn]

If you just diconnect the large connector in the center to the CMS, after you disconnect the speedometer cable you can roll the console toward the front of the bike face down. Pad the metal bracket with a towel and not undo the other plugs.

 

Steve

[bryan52577]

Hey Bryan,

This is an EXCELLENT Write-Up! I am sure I speak for many when I say, Thank You, for taking the time to document this repair. By the way, did it fix your problem? After all that work, I sure hope so!

Earl

 

Skydoc,

Wish I could take credit but I CAN NOT! I found this on another website and the authors name was not on it. So to whom ever the author was THANK YOU!

Sorry,

Bryan

[Freebird]

Copied to First Gen Tech Library.

[Venturous Randy]

Great article and two more suggestions.

This is a great time to remove and grease the speedometer.

When ever you put the dash back in and plug up the big receptical to the back of the CMS, use a plastic wire tie to pull the wiring harness up slightly to take the "pull" off the connection.

RandyA

[GeorgeS]

Yes, greese speedo, and Replace all the Panel Bulbs,

 

And pull All the plugs apart behind the headlight, and off the Relays, and spray them down with CRC 2-26, If you have not allready done so.

[Monty]

Still waiting for a "pinout" as the title suggests.

If I get time, I will make one.

[Yammer Dan]

That is a great wtite-up. One of the things I need to do this spring. My 85 sat too long. Has slow tach with only 20k. Wouldn't hurt to grease speedo while I grease tach.

[Monty]

I greased my speedo, but my '83 has an electronic tach.

[Yammer Dan]

85 tach has slows. Not sure why on this one?

[SaltyDog]

I too needed to find the pin assignments for the CMS on my Venture ('83 standard). I wanted to change all the running and turn signal lights to LED. Not wanting to stare at the CMS blinking continuously due to the load change, I dug out my spare instrument cluster and wiring harness. After comparing the wire colors on the harness plug and the electrical schematic, I figured which pins on the CMS fed the magnetic coils and reed switches and their functions. I added two jumpers on the back of the plug board to bypass the tail light and brake light reed switches. This way the CMS processor doesn't sense the less than design current load through the magnetic coils. With the reed switches bypassed, I can run any combination of bulbs in the brake and running/tail light circuits and not get a fault display. Since the LED bulbs have a LONG lifespan, the lack of failure warning isn't a problem to me.

 

I also replaced the hazard and turn signal thermal relays with electronic types from my local Autozone. The hazard relay is a standard 2 pin type and was a direct replacement. To replace the turn signal relay, (3 pin type, without bulb outage), I had to move two of the connectors in the 3 pin plug to get the turn siganls to work. I swapped positions of the brown and brown/white wires in the plug and the new electronic relay worked fine. I did lose the self-cancel function but the switch on the handlebar will cancel the signal without any problems.

 

I found when I had changed all the turn signal bulbs to LEDs that I needed to add a load resistor to each side to regain proper function, dispite the use of the electronic turn signal relay. I am still working on eliminating these load resistors if I can figure which component in the bike wiring is requiring the additional current for proper turn signal operation. I picked up some 10 ohm 25W resistors online at www.partsexpress.com.

 

Below you will see some more explanation of the pin layout and functions. Look carefully and verify everything on your unit before you do any modifications.

 

Everything I've discussed I have completed on my '83 Venture standard so I know it works for my bike and I hope it is of some use for someone else.

[timgray]

That is Excellent!

 

Thank you very much, That will help a LOT of people in the future.

 

As for the turn signal still not working with LED, take a close look at the flasher unit you bought at autozone, if it's one that was designed to run 4 or more lamps then it will not trigger with only 2 led's The problem is still with the flasher. I discovered this when I converted my Fiero to all LED, the electronic flashers I was able to get at Autozone did not work, I had to buy one without the "bulb out indicator" and for only 2 lamps. I got mine at NAPA.

 

 

NOTE: when you are at autozone, replace the 194 bulbs for the dash turn signal indicators with their amber 4 led 194 replacement bulbs. Makes a HUGE difference in the visibility of the turn signal indicators on the dash. I can see them easily in high noon sun shining on the dash.

[SaltyDog]

Thanks for the additional information. I did install a flasher relay without the "bulb out" feature, but I will check about the 4 vs. 2 lights.

 

I changed the #194 bulbs in the instrument cluster to LED's first before I tackled the #1156 and #1157 bulbs and the CMS fault display. I agree that the daytime visibility is much improved and the extended longevity of the instrument cluster lighting is important to me. I hate having instrument lights go out at night and not being able to see the tach and speedo.