veep1 Posted March 9, 2009 #1 Posted March 9, 2009 I've read here about modifying stock pipes to get a little more sound by drilling the pipes and If you do, does it alter the performance? Looking for that Thread showing what to do. Thanks
CMIKE Posted March 9, 2009 #2 Posted March 9, 2009 I drilled mine on my RSMV...I really did not notice any performance gains...little bit more sound. I used to have to make those harley's let me crank mine first so I could tell if it was running. At least now I can tell it is running next to a harley.
SaltyDawg Posted March 9, 2009 #3 Posted March 9, 2009 I've read here about modifying stock pipes to get a little more sound by drilling the pipes and If you do, does it alter the performance? Looking for that Thread showing what to do. Thanks Depends on what sound you are looking for. I have drilled out the cones in the back and removed the rear baffle. Now in doing this it gives a real "tap tap" sound, but I have been able to offset that with using a mod called fibrosleeve and my pipes have a nice rumble to them. Not overbearing but can be heard by cages. I have a video of it if I can find it, so you can hear the sounds. I'll post it tonight if I can remember.
StarFan Posted March 9, 2009 #4 Posted March 9, 2009 The previous owner of my bike had removed the silencers completely. The bike has a very nice rumble that is not to loud but all my friends as well as I love it. The only downside is that it pops a little when decelerating. Don´t know how to fix it - maybe changing the jet size?
CMIKE Posted March 9, 2009 #5 Posted March 9, 2009 This link will show HOW... http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002009&id=193
jburrell Posted March 9, 2009 #6 Posted March 9, 2009 You can resolve the popping on decel by disabling the AIS. Air injection System. There is a thread for it on this site.
KeithR Posted March 9, 2009 #7 Posted March 9, 2009 Here are some pics of the insides of the stock mufflers that I saved from somewhere ....maybe this site ? Keith
SaltyDawg Posted March 9, 2009 #8 Posted March 9, 2009 I've read here about modifying stock pipes to get a little more sound by drilling the pipes and If you do, does it alter the performance? Looking for that Thread showing what to do. Thanks Ok here is the video of what it sounds like with the Mod I did. If interested I can do a quick write up. Total cost is about $20.00 if you have a hammer and cold chisel. Remember this is done to Stock pipes. Once done you can't go back. I bought a pair off a member before I did the mod in case I didn't like it. So far it's been good. I can still hear other bikes over mine including Beer30's 4-2-4's. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqs_BqNnGGw]YouTube - RSV Fibrosleeve MOD[/ame]
Croissantwich Posted March 10, 2009 #9 Posted March 10, 2009 Like that sound. I removed the back baffle as you did, sure would love to here about your fibrosleeve mod. Hope you can get time to do a writeup for those of us who are interested. thx so much:dancefool:
StarFan Posted March 10, 2009 #10 Posted March 10, 2009 You can resolve the popping on decel by disabling the AIS. Air injection System. There is a thread for it on this site. Sorry, I forgot to mention that it is a Tour Classic 1998. No AIS on these.
SaltyDawg Posted March 10, 2009 #11 Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) Like that sound. I removed the back baffle as you did, sure would love to here about your fibrosleeve mod. Hope you can get time to do a writeup for those of us who are interested. thx so much:dancefool: I know you already removed the baffle, but to anyone else I will advise having a set of stock pipes on standby in case you don't like the mod or for when you need to get an inspection. To do this you first need to remove the rear baffle, it’s easiest to just get a half inch cold chisel and a hammer and just cut the rear cone and back plate out. Bend over the excess around the edges of the backplate, don’t bend completely flat as this will be used later to hold the mod in. Use a plunger handle or 3 foot section of a broom handle to stick into the rear baffle and just start bending and twisting the baffle all around until it breaks free. I will advise that you don’t push in while doing this because if the metal finally gives and it goes into the second chamber it is not real easy to work the baffle into position to remove it out the way it went in. Believe me I know from experience. What you will need for this mod is a pair of wire cutters, masonry wire mesh, tape measure or 12 inch ruler, and 1-inch muffler batting MATT. DO NOT USE THE LOOSE STUFF!! Make sure it’s 1-inch. The half inch stuff is a waste of time. Been there done that. If you are around a big city it might not be hard to find otherwise you may need to order it off the Internet. To head off the question, NO common fiberglass boat matting is not the same thing. Use caution when working with fiberglass!! I highly recommend long sleeves, gloves, goggles, and at least a dust mask. After removing the cone and rear baffle, measure from the back plate where the baffle was attached to where you bent the excess over, cut the wire to this length. The wire mesh is sort of diamond shaped and you will want to have the longer sides going front to back in the pipe. It’s kind of a guess on how much you need to cut to go inside the pipes. If I remember correctly it was 10 inches for me and then I had to cut them down the center in order to get them inserted into the pipes. It’s a hit or miss thing. Good thing is that the wire mesh is cheap. You will want to bend the wire mesh to meet the radius of the pipe. Cut the fiberglass packing to size. Front to back is I believe 5 inches and 10 inches. Place the fiberglass matt inside the pipe and then use one of the bent wire mesh pieces and slide into the pipe on one side and wedge behind the backplate excess NOT the cone, you bent over earlier. This is where the mesh needs to be long enough to touch the back and then be wedged behind the bent over piece to keep it from coming out. Do the same to the other side of the pipe. Edit: The mesh is to hold the fiberglass packing against the walls of the pipe, so you should put the packing in and then the mesh inside of that to hold it firm. It looks odd from the rear at first, but get a few rides on it and the fiberglass will darken up and you won't be able to see it. What this mod does is absorbs the echo going down the pipe that gives the TaT TaT TaT sound. WARNING. Do not start the bike inside your garage. Move it out in the driveway to crank and be ready to ride it down the road right away. Reason being is that any loose fiberglass will be blown out the back and all over the place. Take it down the road and open her up a little to blow it out. You will notice a slight odor which is natural for the first couple of times you ride the bike. Use caution when working with fiberglass!! Here is the link to where I found this mod and although it’s for an Intruder with my changes it works well with the RSV. I first did the mod to Krome Roses bike and she loved it. I am not a loud pipe person, but I liked it too so that’s why I tried it on the RSV. The dimensions are wrong for the RSV. http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/32124-m50-fiberglass-rebaffle-low-merged.html Edited March 10, 2009 by SaltyDawg
SaltyDawg Posted March 11, 2009 #13 Posted March 11, 2009 thx for the info. much appreciated. No problem. I find it hard to drop $4-600.00 on pipes that I might like. This is an easy mod and cheap to boot. Sound may not be to every ones liking, but it suits me fine. I'm sure I will have to repack before too long. So far I have about 5,000 miles on it and it still sounds good. BTW the video was done when I first did the mod with 1/2 inch packing. It was still a little too loud for me so I went with the 1 inch and got a much mellower sound.
veep1 Posted March 12, 2009 Author #14 Posted March 12, 2009 Thanks for everyone's imput. I completed the modification. Sounds a little better. Probably will buy some BUBS when I can afford it.
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