Stumped......

[83VR3711]

I was having an issue with no power up to 55 mph. I would twist the throttle all of the way around and it would excelerate no faster than if I normally twisted it. I assumed that my jets were probably clogged, so I had pulled te carbs out and cleaned the jets and everything real good. Mind you, I did not make any adjustments to anything. I put it all back together and it fired it up, but now it sounds weak, as if it is running on 2 out of 4 carbs. All 4 slides are moving as they should. When I ride, the RPMs go up, but it doesnt feel llike the bike is moving like it should. It almost feels like it is leveling out....not sure how else to explain it. I have no idea where to go with this one.....There are no vaccum leaks that I can find....... Please help......

 

Stumped....

83VR3711

[bongobobny]

I know this is going to sound stupid, but, have you tried new plugs??

[83VR3711]

I did indeed (but not the wires), about 46 miles ago. The last 46 miles ahve been a pain. One problem after another. I pulled one and it was black and covered in gas...... I hope this helps in a solution

Edited March 9, 2009 by 83VR3711

[Venturous Randy]

How does your diaphragms look and while cleaning the carbs, did you pull the pilot jets and clean them? Also, if you have had the carbs separated, you will need to resync them.

RandyA

[83VR3711]

I did indeed remove the bar and folded the carbs back in order to open them up..... Yes, the pilot jets were removed and cleaned. I did not open the diaphram side. Do you think I need to re-sync them? Would out-of-sync cause leveling out on acceleration? It idles ok, I guess. After idling for about 5 min straight, it will shut off. It does fire right back up though and idle for another

few minutes. When I do ride it, as is, she usually dies when i come to a stop.

[Venturous Randy]

I did indeed remove the bar and folded the carbs back in order to open them up..... Yes, the pilot jets were removed and cleaned. I did not open the diaphram side. Do you think I need to re-sync them? Would out-of-sync cause leveling out on acceleration? It idles ok, I guess. After idling for about 5 min straight, it will shut off. It does fire right back up though and idle for another

few minutes. When I do ride it, as is, she usually dies when i come to a stop.

 

Now it sounds more like a clogged gas filter.

RandyA

[83VR3711]

NOTE: *I AM NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED*

 

Now that we got that out of the way....I also replaced the fuel filter about 46 miles ago. I did remove the fuel line from the pump and turned the petcock to on. I has maximum flow through the filter. Is there another way to check?

[Pappa Bear]

another silly queston

[bobcat]

Did you sync the carbs? Also, might be a TCI problem or the connection to the TCI

[83VR3711]

Now this may be a stupid question, but if I disconnected the "syncronization rod" in order to clean the carbs..... do I need to re-sync the carbs?

[Venturous Randy]

Now this may be a stupid question, but if I disconnected the "syncronization rod" in order to clean the carbs..... do I need to re-sync the carbs?

 

Not necessarily. But, if you disturbed the "frame" that mounts the carbs together, you have changed things. And, if yours is like most bikes, the carbs need synced anyway. Do you have the ability to sync them yourself?

RandyA

[83VR3711]

NO I do not have the ability to do it myself, but there is a bike shop down the road I could run it to. I think they qouted me at $65 for a sync a few weeks ago. I have been suspecting a possible sync issue for a little while now. Can anyone tell me what some signs are that would indicate that the carbs are out of sync?

Edited March 10, 2009 by 83VR3711

[GeorgeS]

I would suggest you remove all 4 plugs, to take a look at them, might tell you if one or more cylinders is not running right. ( I know, New Plugs, but sometimes, new plugs are bad, also )

 

These bikes run pretty good up to about 45 to 50 mph, with only 3 cylinders fireing. Then flatten out.

 

You might remove each end of all 4 plug wires, and nip off 1/4 inch of wire, and re-install.

 

You might have high resistance across the Ignition, " On-Off " contacts, and also check the " RUN-STOP " Switch contacts. ( Use electrical contact cleaner on these two switches )

Why?? High resistance thru these switches, will lower the voltage avialable to the tCI, and Ignition Coils.

 

Also, find the Barrow Sensor, Forward, and above the Left Fwd Carb. Remove the Electrical plug, and check for Water, and Crud across the contacts, of the barrow sensor unit. ( Its hooked to the Ignition Circuit, -- its a long story, ---don't ask, just do it )

 

Have you pulled the Plugs out of the TCI, and cleaned the contacts ????

[83VR3711]

yes, I have pulled the plugs out of the TCI and sprayed some electrical cleaner in there. I have also pulled every other electrical connector that i could find and cleaned them. Alot of them had a lot of crud and corrosion on them. They are all clean and shinny. About the plugs....they are black and covered with gas. I think I may only be running on 2 cylinders cuz she starts to level out at around 30 mph. The rpms are there, but doesnt seem like any power. When you say snip the plug wires back, you are meaning pull the boot back and make the cut, right? Thank you for your help

[hlange]

Did you put the rubber plugs inside the float bowl back into the correct holes?

[83VR3711]

if you are refering to the rubber plug that is a dual plug, then yes, there were put back in correctly. Now what are the cahnces that they may have come out once assembled?

[83VR3711]

Quick question......If my plug wires are shorting to ground (due to cracks), would that possibly cause the indications that I am having? I have heard popping from time to time. usually just before I start having issue. I was/ am having a battery drain issue when the bike is idling. It charges if I get the RPMs high enough but drops when I return it to an idle.

[bongobobny]

Lets just say that on a 26 year old bike, if those are the original wires, they should have been replaced years ago.

 

There is a set of connectors from the ignition sensors that sometimes gives problems. Is your tach reading OK? that may be another aid to finding out the problem. There is also a possibility your Ignition Control Module is acting up, not suppling proper spark at the right time...

[Squidley]

Now this may be a stupid question, but if I disconnected the "syncronization rod" in order to clean the carbs..... do I need to re-sync the carbs?

 

 

If you have done ANY work on the carburetors you need to resync them. I also would recommend that you do a complete tune up, wires, wire caps and a new set of plugs. You should also check to see what your float levels are at on all 4 carbs. If you dont have a manual, you need to get one.

[83VR3711]

The floats could use some adjustment. I have to keep the petcock at about 1/4 of the way on or it will be too much fuel and flood the system....... About the boots and wires, they very well may be close to the originals, one of the boots has a crack up the side of it. I guess it may be high time to change the out.....

[Dano]

Might want to pull the TCI out, bake it at 125d for an hour, open it up and resolder the connections in there, could have a cold solder joint.

Bike is definately missing, sounds like multiple conditions to cause this. Best do everything mentioned above......

 

Sorry about all the work,

 

Dan

 

PS, you'll be able to pull a wheelie once you get her going good!

[83VR3711]

Good morning all. I have got her up and running again. It turned out, that the wires and boots were not in the best shape and I was only firing on 2 cylinders. I am up to the cylinders now. I was up to 4, but I had a little problem. I had a hole in my radiator hose, so I replaced it, but when I removed the hose from behind #3 plug, there was some water left in the hose. The water appears to have gotten past the boot and fouled out plug #3. I pulled the plug and there was water all over it:bang head:. What do I do now? is there a way to get the water out or do I just keep running and it will eventually work its way out?

[bongobobny]

Take a paper towel or thin rag and try to poke it into the area to soak up the coolant. Not a real good idea to just leave it i n there...

[GeorgeS]

Do you mean, water was leaking from Radiator Hose, down into the Spark Plug houseing ???

 

If so, Blow Out with compressed Air. Always do that before removeing plugs, to prevent forign material from falling into the cylinder when removeing the plugs.

 

From what you said above, ??? not sure though, you have replaced the Plug wires and caps. ???

 

IF not, you can simply buy Bulk, 7MM solid copper core Spark plug wire from most any Auto parts dealer. Make up your own.

 

Screw the Caps OFF at the Ignition Coils, and the Resistor caps. Then the Wire simply Screw's out on each end, Cut new wire and Screw back into place.

 

Nothing to it !!!!!

 

------------------------------

 

OK, Check this !!

 

Observe the " PULL Throttle Cable " Move the Throttle, slowly, do you have

Some Amount of Slack, Before the Mechanical linkage at the Left FWD Carb, starts to Move ?????

 

IF NOT-- you need to readjust the Cable Sheath, about 3 inches forward of the left Fwd, Carb. ---- THERE MUST BE ABOUT 1/8 INCH OF SLACK IN THE PULL CABLE !!!!! Now you are ready, to check if ALL 4 Throttle Plates, " ARE JUST AT THE CLOSED POSITION " This is what you are doing when doing the Sync Proceedure.

 

-- SEE: Pager 2-12 of 1st gen Service Manual. ( you can pull it up in the 1st gen maint. library ) Observe how the " SNYC " Screws, adjust the " throttle plates "

Edited March 16, 2009 by GeorgeS

[83VR3711]

Thank you very much for the input. No, the hose was not leaking into the plug...what happened was I disconnected the radiator side first to make sure there was no water in the line. I then tilted the hose down as far as possible to get out all of the residual water. When I removed the lower part of the hose, I there must have been a little more in there and it went to #3 plug. You say compressed air will get that out? Next I found a posting from may '08 listing the NAPA P/Ns for the boots and wire, but NAPA no longer carries anything except the plugs. Not even bulk wire. Does anyone know of another place that might or P/N? I am trying to find something from maybe a local type store.

 

Thank you all,

Clay