MiCarl Posted February 4, 2010 #76 Posted February 4, 2010 .... And how will I be able to tell if the diaphragms need to be changed? ... Hold a flashlight behind them and inspect. Any holes and they need to be replaced.
pinetum Posted February 4, 2010 #77 Posted February 4, 2010 Thanks, I'm gonna be so smart when I get this beast together - if I live long enuf.
MikesBike Posted April 20, 2010 #78 Posted April 20, 2010 My diaphragms arrived today! Exactly one week after I placed my order, I was pleasantly surprised by a small white box in the mail. The gentlemen at Sirius answered all the questions I posed to them with much patience. The discount still applies, although not as deep as in the beginning (After all, the original deal was setup a year ago, prices have gone up since then) I'm thankful they still offer the deal to the VentureRider organization. When you're ready to order, send an e-mail to Chris or Martin asking for the group discount. Place the order via their web site (www.siriusconinc.com). When complete, e-mail them the invoice number and the deal is done! Very easy to do and great people to work with! Thank you Sirius!
dksmith196958 Posted April 20, 2010 #79 Posted April 20, 2010 good work the dealer cant get then here (planet power sports) aka .:Venture:rip city
saltcreep Posted May 7, 2010 #80 Posted May 7, 2010 Thanks for the update Mike...Now that I know this is still valid, emailing now to order a set. I am reviving one I got off ebay, that obviously sat up a while, looks like all 4 diaphragms have holes galore in them.... Can't wait to see what she runs like with the new ones in.
Yammer Dan Posted May 7, 2010 #81 Posted May 7, 2010 thanks for the update mike...now that i know this is still valid, emailing now to order a set. I am reviving one i got off ebay, that obviously sat up a while, looks like all 4 diaphragms have holes galore in them.... Can't wait to see what she runs like with the new ones in. just hang on !!!!
saltcreep Posted May 26, 2010 #82 Posted May 26, 2010 $69+$5(s/h) to paypal@siriusconinc.com and a week later I have new diaphragms...OMG, I love my cycle now! Took about 20minutes to replace them all. Thank you for making this possible.
jasonm. Posted June 11, 2010 #83 Posted June 11, 2010 (edited) are there instructions on how to remove the old diaphragm from the slide??? Edited June 11, 2010 by jasonm.
Condor Posted June 11, 2010 #84 Posted June 11, 2010 are there instrucions on how to remove the old diaphragm form the slide??? Don't know of any, but a good shot of WD40 and gently pulling on the diaphragm will genrerally get'r done....
Rocket Posted June 11, 2010 #85 Posted June 11, 2010 are there instrucions on how to remove the old diaphragm form the slide??? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32121
jasonm. Posted June 11, 2010 #86 Posted June 11, 2010 for the seperation of diaphragm from slide....why does that seem to easy to me, ...? I don't expect to need these just yet. But I had to ask.
MikesBike Posted June 12, 2010 #87 Posted June 12, 2010 When I installed my new diaphragms, I used the edge of a plastic key card to carefully push the rubber into the gap. I guess a credit card would work OK also.
Shorty Posted June 17, 2010 #88 Posted June 17, 2010 I installed new Diaphraigms with slides today, haven't got the carbs synic yet but took it for a ride and it would only rev out to 6500 rpm. Also put a K&N filter on. The engine noise has been getting kinda loud and the clutch slipped when trying to crank it out. When I pull the clutch lever in the sound goes away. Here's a picture of why I replaced the slides too. The chip was only on one but the others were worn quite bad.
Dano Posted June 18, 2010 #89 Posted June 18, 2010 If you're only revving to 6500, then you've got a dead cylinder or 2. These bikes will wrap to 8500 without floating the valves. Synch job will help, but I'd pull my plugs and take a look at them. I just pulled my front wheel off the ground a few days ago when I banged 2nd gear, so that tells you how it should pull. Dan
Shorty Posted June 18, 2010 #90 Posted June 18, 2010 If you're only revving to 6500, then you've got a dead cylinder or 2. These bikes will wrap to 8500 without floating the valves. Synch job will help, but I'd pull my plugs and take a look at them. I just pulled my front wheel off the ground a few days ago when I banged 2nd gear, so that tells you how it should pull. Dan Ya, our Salt Lake Silver/Gray ones do that at 7500 rpm. It's just today after the new Diaphragms that it doesn't rev. All four cyclinders are hot to the touch. The carbs were sync with lot's of holes in the diaphragms and now with no holes it just doesn't rev out. I just didn't think it would be that far off though.
Condor Posted June 18, 2010 #91 Posted June 18, 2010 Ya, our Salt Lake Silver/Gray ones do that at 7500 rpm. It's just today after the new Diaphragms that it doesn't rev. All four cyclinders are hot to the touch. The carbs were sync with lot's of holes in the diaphragms and now with no holes it just doesn't rev out. I just didn't think it would be that far off though. Double check to see if you don't have a vacuum leak on a diaphragm seal. Sometimes those puppies can pull out and get pinched when installing. If you're not pulling that needle out far enough you won't get enough gas though a carb at high RPM's. And that may also be the case if the phragm rubber is thicker than OEM's. Just a thought..
Shorty Posted June 18, 2010 #92 Posted June 18, 2010 Double check to see if you don't have a vacuum leak on a diaphragm seal. Sometimes those puppies can pull out and get pinched when installing. If you're not pulling that needle out far enough you won't get enough gas though a carb at high RPM's. And that may also be the case if the phragm rubber is thicker than OEM's. Just a thought.. "Your the Man" Yup you pegged it, one of them had shifted and was leaking. I took the air cleaner off and saw that one slide wasn't moving. Now it revs out to 7500 again. It still takes longer than before but I'm sure the snyc job will fix it. Thank you VERY much!!!!
Condor Posted June 18, 2010 #93 Posted June 18, 2010 "Your the Man" Yup you pegged it, one of them had shifted and was leaking. I took the air cleaner off and saw that one slide wasn't moving. Now it revs out to 7500 again. It still takes longer than before but I'm sure the snyc job will fix it. Thank you VERY much!!!! No Problem... That's what this board is all about. The slower throttle response is probably due to the diaphragm material being a little thicker than the OEM material, and not quite as responsive. I've never been a big fan of the replacement phragms, and wonder if they don't limit the distance and speed a needle will pull out of the jet?? But.... some movement is better than no movement.... and the price is a whole lot better than OEM...
Shorty Posted June 21, 2010 #94 Posted June 21, 2010 The Synic job cured the problem, it revs to 7500 VERY quickly. Milage went from 31 mpg before diaphraigms & slides to 36 and then after synic up to 38. The noise.... not as bad as it was before synic but still there. Some of the guys think it's the lifters.... 112,000 miles on bike and they have never been touched. However some of the noise goes away when pulling in on the clutch lever.
JoeKanuck Posted June 29, 2010 #95 Posted June 29, 2010 Dang...I just wrote them and they're out again for another 3-4 weeks. I checked a carb last night and there are holes in the diaphragm. I may try an adhesive of some sort as a repair.
Squidley Posted August 31, 2010 #96 Posted August 31, 2010 Just an update on this thread, I ordered a set of the diaphrams about 3 minutes ago. So if your wanting a set he has some in stock
mrich12000 Posted October 3, 2010 #98 Posted October 3, 2010 Changed The diaphrams yesterday,went for a mountain ride today WOOHOO , now I know what you guys have been saying about the 1st gen 1200, my retinas are still on Stevens Pass on highway 40. From 60 mph she took off like a scalded cat:225:!! Thanks to this forum. Thanks To Sky dog, Thanks to Rocket. All who said something about Diaphragms.. Now to fix that darn second gear:223:, parts are in the mail...Mike R.. Calgary..
friesman Posted October 3, 2010 #99 Posted October 3, 2010 saying about the 1st gen 1200, my retinas are still on Stevens Pass on highway 40. From 60 mph she took off like a scalded cat:225:!! Better be careful, retinas are important!!!!! I think am qualified now to know something about that..... Brian
safetyguy Posted June 1, 2011 #100 Posted June 1, 2011 Just to add more to the diaphragm knowledge database- Working on another bike that had similar Mikuni carbs, I had great difficulty trying to get the raised edge of the diaphragm to stay in the groove while trying to get the cover screwed on. The solution is one that I wish I figure out previously when replacing mine on my Venture. Long story made short, I used four pieces of regular masking tape to tape the diaphragm in. Place the tape on no more than about a tenth of an inch of the diaphragm when measured from the outside edge. (i.e., just enough to hold the diaphragm edge in when it is seated in the groove.). Put the cover in place and put your four screws in hand tight until it just seats and back each screw out - no more than a half turn. You should be able to pull out each of your four masking tape pieces intact. If the tape pieces rip and do not come out intact, disassemble and try again. Again, the performance that gets restored when you replace diaphragms is amazing. You lose this gain by not having your diaphragms properly sealed. Hope this helps someone and please let me know how it works for you.
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