Main switch removal

[Gunner1945]

I'm thinking I have a main switch thay may be heading south. Over the weekend, I found a dead spot in the "on" position that kills everything dead if the switch is wiggled while in the "run" position. I have the manual, but see nothing about R&Ring the switch. Anyone got a procedure for removing and cleaning the switch? Thanks.

[flb_78]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=512

[N3FOL]

Not sure why these switches are having problems. I wonder if most of the switch problem occurs after 5 years and the bike is out of Warranty. (just my luck) The first time I washed my bike, I made sure that I do not get the top portion wet especially near the speakers / dash area.

 

Good to know that a write-up exist.

[flb_78]

They fail because Yamaha runs most of the electrical system through the switch instead of a relay. Every time a switch is opened or closed, it sparks and causes wear on the terminals. The greater the load, the greater the spark and the greater the wear.

[slick97spirit]

I would be very interested in getting some sort of drawing or directions on that relay. I've seen it discussed here, but never seen any sort of directions. I'm not an electrician, but can be handy at times.

[Gunner1945]

Thanks, guys. I knew someone here would have an answer. I think this problem may have started a while back, but I didn't realize it at the time. Thought it was just a dead battery, but when I think back it was acting the same. No speedo, radio, etc. I'm thinking turning off the running lights, radio, etc. may reduce the load on the switch.

 

Don't visit here much, but do have a lot of pages printed out for my mechanic. He retired from a Honda dealer, but will work for money.

Edited March 4, 2009 by Gunner1945
added more thoughts.

[99silver]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31394

 

Don, here's a post on a relay to avoid future problems. The removal is a PIA, replace the cone heads with allen bolts. If the contact plate is not cooked you can salvage the switch.

Good luck,

Gary

[1BigDog]

I have been applying a shot of Radio Shack contact cleaner/lube into the ignition switch for years. Havent had a problem yet.

[jburrell]

Consider putting in the switch by-pass that Freebird wrote about. I inatalled one when my switch started going bad and I ended up using it for 2 months until I could replace the switch. I put a toggle switch just behing the battery where i could reach under the seat and turn on the ignition part of the bike. Put some electrical lube cleaner on the switch while you have it out. Hope it all works out

[AlbertaClipper]

I removed the ignition switch and tossed it. I replaced it with a (hidden) toggle switch and a couple of relays. This makes 5 relays I've added in the fairing. Low beam, high beam, driving lights, and 2 for ignition. I'm not going to get stuck at a gas station 100 miles from home because of a faulty switch. I am going to add a water temp gauge and a volt meter gauge on the switch cover where the switch was.

[99silver]

I have been applying a shot of Radio Shack contact cleaner/lube into the ignition switch for years. Havent had a problem yet.

Won't do anything except keep the key moving freely, the electrical connections are separate from the lock tumbler. But I'll bet you will never have a problem with the key !!

 

Gary

[1BigDog]

Won't do anything except keep the key moving freely, the electrical connections are separate from the lock tumbler. But I'll bet you will never have a problem with the key !!

 

Gary

Either way, I still havent had any problems.....