NK 26 x 35 x 25/3A

[Schlepporello]

OK, I've got my rear wheel off to get the rotor turned and brake pads replaced. I'm planning on replacing the 6304 bearing , but I noticed that there's another bearing also. In the service manual, it's number is NK 26 x 35 x 25/3A. Is it neccessary for me to replace this one as well? My bike is an '84 VR with 71,000 miles.

Thanks!

Edited March 6, 2009 by Schlepporello

[Schlepporello]

Bump.

[buddy]

Yes I would change the bearing. you can go to a Yamaha dealer, or do I like did buy your bearing from.

www.flatoutmotorcycle.com

Make sure you have a replacement bearing first before you remove the old bearing, once you start removing it. The bearing will fall apart and be worthless

 

I had to cut mine out it was in there good. Changed mine out at 68,000mi now I just turned 80,000 on the 83 Venture

 

Buddy

[Squeeze]

This is a special Yamaha Bearing. Check for Price first.

 

 

 

After you regained Consciousness, clean your old Bearing thoroughly, give it little fresh Grease and insert the inner Race. Now check for Bearings Slack. If there's any Slack, bite the Bullit, if not, give it proper greasing and don't forget to put the Spacer inside before your reseat the 6304.

[Schlepporello]

This is a special Yamaha Bearing. Check for Price first.

Thought so. That would probably explain why so little of it is mentioned in the service manual.

[Schlepporello]

clean your old Bearing thoroughly, give it little fresh Grease and insert the inner Race.

So I take it that it is possible to remove this bearing without tearing it apart as Buddy had to?

[Squeeze]

So I take it that it is possible to remove this bearing without tearing it apart as Buddy had to?

 

 

No Sir, that won't happen.

 

You can remove the Ball Bearing with a Bearing Puller or drive it out through the left Side, through the Needle Bearing, you need to replace it anyway.

 

Then clean the Needle Bearing, grease it lightly, insert the inner Race and check the Slack and turn it through for several Turns. If you feel no Slack and no Bindings, you're good to go with that Bearing. Grease it very good, insert the Spacer and press the new Ball Bearing in Place.

[Rocket]

So I take it that it is possible to remove this bearing without tearing it apart as Buddy had to?

 

Not really,the inner race is a seperate part & just slides in. Getting the outer race & needle bearings out is destructive, so they are only removed to be replaced. But the needle bearings can easily be lubed in place.

 

[Schlepporello]

Now I'm getting good and confused. The bearing must be destroyed to remove. does it remove through the driveshaft side of the wheel or the disc brake side? If it removes from the driveshaft side, is there a circlip that holds it in place? The service manual doesn't clarify that well enough for my comprehension. And finally, if the old bearing is destroyed to be removed, won't I run the same risk of destruction by replacing it?

 

Thanks for being patient with me guys. You know how it is, some people have got to be walked through a few things.

[Squeeze]

You can pull out the right Side(Brake Side) Ball Bearing with a Bearing Puller or drive it out through the left Side Needle Bearing with Punch or Drift. There is a Circlip underneath the Oil Seal which you have to take out first.

[Rocket]

The service manual doesn't clarify that well enough for my comprehension. And finally, if the old bearing is destroyed to be removed, won't I run the same risk of destruction by replacing it?

 

 

Your right on the manual about that. Trying to get that left side bearing out, is a PITA. I had found that the inside wheel casting prevented me , from just tapping the bearing out. The casting extends too far towards the shaft, compared to the left needle bearing (I think it ensures that the separate inner race stays in place). There was no place to grab it with a bearing puller, thus the destructive removal to replace it.

 

One thing I had done, was to file a couple of grooves into the casting (with the bearings out), for easier removal of that left bearing in the future. But care must be taken, to clean out the filings, from the wheel casting (including the center area), prior to installing the bearings.

 

Re-installing that bearing is easy, I just gently tap it into place, using a block of wood & a then suitably sized socket for final seating.

 

[Schlepporello]

You can pull out the right Side(Brake Side) Ball Bearing with a Bearing Puller or drive it out through the left Side Needle Bearing with Punch or Drift. There is a Circlip underneath the Oil Seal which you have to take out first.

Thanks Squeeze, but it's the needle bearing I'm concerned with. I bought the Harbor Freight blind hole bearing puller and the 6304 bearing came out fast and easy.

[Schlepporello]

Your right on the manual about that. Trying to get that left side bearing out, is a PITA. I had found that the inside wheel casting prevented me , from just tapping the bearing out. The casting extends too far towards the shaft, compared to the left needle bearing (I think it ensures that the separate inner race stays in place). There was no place to grab it with a bearing puller, thus the destructive removal to replace it.

 

One thing I had done, was to file a couple of grooves into the casting (with the bearings out), for easier removal of that left bearing in the future. But care must be taken, to clean out the filings, from the wheel casting (including the center area), prior to installing the bearings.

 

Re-installing that bearing is easy, I just gently tap it into place, using a block of wood & a then suitably sized socket for final seating.

 

Thanks!

But is the needle bearing being held in place with a circlip on the drive hub side?

[Rocket]

Thanks!

But is the needle bearing being held in place with a circlip on the drive hub side?

 

Nope, the outer circlip on that side, holds the splined assy onto the wheel hub. While you are at it, pull that too & grease the pins.

[Schlepporello]

Thanks!