Now with new and improved Throttle cable troubles....

[nonextant]

Well, finished up a great deal of carb cleaning today, and wanted to get everything installed in order to keep the dirt out.

 

Getting the carbs back in the bike was much easier than removing them in the first place, with two notable issues...

 

1) I broke the fitting on the number one carb that attaches from the bottom inside front to a hose that runs out the side to the stick out of the piece with the service manual warning. I need to dig through the service manual to find out exactly what that hose does in order to determine how stressed out I should be about it. Is that fitting replaceable?

 

2) I was able to reconnect the choke cable and the throttle cable that is pulled when twisting the handgrip to accelerate, but cannot for the life of me figure out how to reconnect the other one. It's smack dab between the carbs and I just can't see or reach well enough to reconnect it. Is there a trick to hooking that one back up?

 

 

I went ahead and put on the air box to keep dirt out in the meantime. While I had everything mostly hooked up, I cycled the key several times and cranked it over to see if it would run. Fired up with only a few cranks but wants to idle at 4k. I'm hoping the Idle is running so high due to the other cable being disconnected. Seems to be running much smoother and needed no choke to start for a change. I will need to replace 2 diaphrams (1 pinhole in each on the right side and #3 wasn't seated correctly by the PO so about a quarter of the edge is just smooshed. Filled up the tank with some heet to absorb what water was in the tank. Will continue that for the next few tanks then change the fuel filter. Will also start a "seafoam regimen".

 

Next big job is tires. I'm debating wether to pull the wheels and take them up to be changed which will keep me off the bike till probably next week or to just drive the bike up and have them do it all, which will get me on the road as soon as I get the carbs sorted... hopefully tomorrow. Guess I should call and get some estimates.

 

Next big project... the broken plastic. I was able to glue one lower side fairing back together... ugly but smooth and strong. Good excuse for custom paint. I'll have to fiberglass/rebuild the front 2 inches of the left side. I thought I had lost the front "crossmember" that holds the two peices together, but found it in a box in the barn today.. woohoo! The upper fairing has cracks around most of the bolt holes and the "glove box" doors are all looking pretty sad. (my bike doesn't have radio, cruise, cb, class, or any of the other cool guy stuff) I figure I need to go over and "glue/fiberglass" the cracks in the upper fairing and I might as well do some customizing there too. I'm thinking about filling out/rounding off the inset section below the turnsignals. that will allow me to increase the cargo space in the fairing quite a bit and I may inset some driving lights into the front of it. I'll probably scrap the "doors" and install some gadgets in the panels.

 

I am certainly open to any suggestions and welcome any advice.

I appreciate the help, once again.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

[GeorgeS]

Broken fitting. ??? I will assume you mean the about 1/2 inch long 1/8 brass pipe fitting. On the Intake manifold, is that correct ??

 

If so, just plug the hole for the time being. If you broke that thing off, then you have a big Vaccume leak. NOT GOOD.

 

The Return cable, well, you have to get that re installed, !! Use bright light, study the fittings, eventually you will see how it goes into position.

 

After both cables hooked up. On the PULL, cable, be sure you have about 1/8 inch of slack, then back off on the Main Idle Adjust Screw, located under the left FWD CARB.

 

Now recheck for some Cable Slack . Set with the Lock nut, and adjuster on the Cable Sheath.

 

BE SURE YOU HAVE SOME AMOUNT OF CABLE SLACK, AT CLOSED THROTTLE .

[nonextant]

The fitting I broke is.... well it's hard to describe. it's on the bottom rear of the number one carb. It looks like a black round plug thing that sticks out towards the inside of the carb assembly with a nipple facing down. the black hose (about 6" long) that attaches to the nipple feeds straight out the side of the carb assembly through a hole in the brass "frame" attaching #1 to #2. each carb has a similar hose for a total of two hoses sticking out per side. If you look below the diaphram covers, there is a sticker that says something about seeing the service manual before messing with the carbs. it is centered between the hose ends I'm talking about.

 

I'll check the cable connection during daylight tomorrow. Can it be reattached with the carbs installed? I disconnected them with the carbs halfway out, so I could rotate them around some, but I'd hate to have to disconnect all the hoses again to pull it out some. I think I actually broke the fitting while I was removing the cable while the carbs were halfway out.

 

I'll make sure I have some play in the cable, and thanks for your response.

 

Mark

[Squeeze]

That black Fitting sounds to me as the Carb Bowl Drain Hose Connector ?

 

There's a smnall Hose coming from inside the Carbset and ending just underneath the two outer Carb Bowls in a metal Bracket ?

[bongobobny]

As far as the tires go, unless you have extra money, the labor to have the wheels removed gets expensive, probably along the lines of an extra $100 or so...

[Venturous Randy]

Mark, whether you pull the wheels or pay someone else, make sure to remove the rear end and grease all the splines on the wheel and driveshaft.

On the carbs, I always take the cables loose at the hand grip before I install them on the carbs then put the handgrip back together. That is what works best for me.

RandyA

[GeorgeS]

The hose you describe is deffinatly the " Bowl Drain " hose. There is a " #2 philips " head screw, on each carb to OPEN the drain.

 

So, if what you broke OFF is just the hose fitting, and the Drain is not leaking, then you should be OK.

 

That hose is also used for checking the Fuel Level Setting, of the " Float " in the carb bowl.

 

----

 

Its a good idea, to OPEN each Drain, one at a time, turn the Key to " ON " and let the Fuel pump run fuel thru Each Carb seperatly, Just to make sure any Crud gets drained from the carb bowls.

 

Also, best to install a new fuel filter -- as long as your working on it.

 

Also, be sure to completly Drain your Fuel Tank, at the Petcock, make sure you get any crud out of the tank. Remember, the last gallon of gas in these bikes never gets used !! Any water, or Crud, in bottom of tank may have been there for the last 10 years. !!! Put in some " HEET ", and completly drain the tank. !!!

[Condor]

I could never reconnect the cables when the carbs were installed...or get them off for that matter.. Finally found that I needed to reconnect the cables with the carbs off.... then install them. It's the only way to get the stop and cable onto the cam in the middle. Can't remember what it does, but it doesn't matter. BTW conect the stopper first and then slip the cable and cover into the holder... that's what the slot is for. Hope it helps..

[nonextant]

Well, I finally got the cables back on. at least I think its correct....

 

On the return cable, the cylinder at the end (silver) is in the slot with the cable run through the guides... the other cylinder, (brass) is loose and rides on the "cam"

 

My throttle now stays open (doesn't return when twisted)

 

I forgot to wipe down the handlebars before putting the grips back on, so maybe theres some dust and sand in there... so now I need to undo the cables.... again... grrrrrrr. and remove the handgrip and clean it up real well and see what happens.

 

It definitely feels more powerful, but now the idle is all jacked up. Wants to Idle really low but when the adjustment "knob" is used to raise it to 950, If I twist the grips then bring them back forward it wants to hover at about 3500.

 

Biggest change I've noticed is how quickly it spins up to redline... much quicker than before.

 

I'll be building my sync tool shortly and we'll see how it's doing once I've got all the carbs properly working together.

 

Mark

[bikenut]

Hi Mark

If you have the cables to tight it will not return right also so put some play back in the cables so the hand grip has some free play in it. Mine did the same thing and with a little more play in the grip it works fine now.

Give that a try

bikenut

[nonextant]

just cant get the trottle to return.

 

I pulled the cover on the linkage behind the left side fairing. All cables move smoothly until I slide them back into the housing. once reinstalled the throttle is a little stiff and no return still. I should also note, when loose from the housing, the throttle is smooth, but of course doesn't return on it's own.

 

I want to double check my connection for the return cable at the carb, so I am attaching a pic. the cable is represented in red... the end "cylinder" is pink and the brass one is yellow.

 

Any help is GREATLY appreciated... if you need photos of anything let me know.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

[Condor]

If the cable is coming out of the cover like you have pictured...it's binding. The cable should come straight out and lay in the chanel of the cam. Hope your just a bad artist...

[nonextant]

nope, that's how it sits... granted when the slides are placed in the junction the cable lays across the cam like so....

[Condor]

The second pic is how it should be. If it's like the first pic, that's your problem. Like I mentioned before in a previous post, you need to take the carbs off to get that cable correctly connected on the cam... It's impossible otherwise.. Did you do that?

[nonextant]

I did end up taking them back off.

 

The biggest issue is that it's so hard to see in there, it's not very intuitive how it should fit.

[Dano]

Pull the airbox and fuel line, loosen the intake clamps, pop the carbs loose and pull them out the left side about half way. You should be able to get in there and attach the cables now. Make sure you have the correct cable going to the correct cam! Also check the little black box that the cables run thru along the upper left frame. Pull the lower leg off the fairing and you might be able to pull it down far enough to open up. A cable might have come out of the groove in there.

 

Keep pluggin' away! You'll get her going good soon, and I would wait till you synch her up before trying to ride too much, she could act like a wild mustang if the synch isn't pretty close!

 

Also agree with RandyA, pull the wheels yourself and take them in. They will be reinstalled correctly with the rear end being greased up and you will have learned one more important piece of maintenance to do on your bike!

 

Happy riding,

 

Dan

[nonextant]

Well, It turned out my channel for the return cable was a little tweaked... the cable wasn't all the way in.

 

The throttle now returns, albeit very slowly.. I'll lube up the cables and see how it goes.

 

All of the plastic is now off the bike and going through some much needed repair... many cracked pieces.

 

Next big step will be removing the wheels... gotta go buy a couple of ratchet straps first..

 

 

Thanks to everyone for their help and input..

 

Mark

[nonextant]

Well, I replaced my throttle cables yesterday. much smoother now. Still found a little sticking, but shot the throttle and upper cables with some WD-40 and now it snaps back like it should.

 

Only thing left on the tuneup is syncing the carbs, changing the plugs and one final oil change.

 

I've got most of my plastic either repaired or replaced (Thanks again, Bongobobny) I am finishing up rattlecanning them just so they match, but will probably strip them and take them to the paintbooth this winter.

 

I still need to pull the wheels, but wanted to wait until my tires are ordered. I found a good price on elite 3s but forgot the sizes when I went to order. Will have to dig around on here again to make sure I have the correct sizes and then place the order.

 

I also still need to fabricate and fiberglass my housings for the GPS and Radio controls, and need to buy some marine vinyl for the top of the fairing panels.

 

I've bought a 2nd seat and have removed the cover for my old one. I need to order marine vinyl to recover that one and I'll be just about done.

 

I am anxious to get the bike back on the road so I can start my next project. I've been looking to build up a lighter cruiser for my commute to work, while setting this bike up as my ultimate long distance ride. I finally got my lighter bike last week and want to start taking it apart.

 

I just wanted to take a moment and thank everyone for their help and advise. It is so much easier to crack into a new project knowing the amount of experience and helpfulness available on here.

 

Thanks again, everybody.