jlh3rd Posted March 13, 2009 Author #126 Posted March 13, 2009 cougar that's what i used in the spark plug non fouler .......and be sure to use the non fouler....for various reasons no other adapter worked ..either the gasket wouldn't fit from discount warehouse or you couldn't get the socket on the egauges adapter to tighten it down...and be sure to only use that cylinder mentioned in goose's post....don't try the front cylinders...........i found this all out.............
Freebird Posted March 13, 2009 #127 Posted March 13, 2009 Well folks...I just finished installing my set. I used V7GOOSE's excellent writeup for connecting them including drilling and tapping the 20MM oil plug for the pressure switch and the neat trick for forming new threads for the water temp with the anti-fowler. Everything worked out just perfectly. I did take some pictures and will try to get them posted soon. Still have to put the fairing back together. Fired it up and made sure that all were working properly and no leaks anywhere. The set that I bought have a lot shallower face plate than the Autometer gauges. It only protrudes from the dash about 1/8".
Cougar Posted March 13, 2009 #128 Posted March 13, 2009 I will just sit here until Mr Bird Shows up with them Pictures!
Midrsv Posted March 13, 2009 #129 Posted March 13, 2009 When you mount the water temp sending unit in the top of the head, how much clearance do you have for the sending unit probe to protrude into the head. Are there any clearance issues. I will be installing my water temp gauge tomorrow. I'm using an electronic Autometer marine gauge that I bought from egauges.com along with chrome housing from VDO which I plan to mount from the handlebar with a ram mount. Hope it works. It's considerably more expensive that the gauge setup you guys are using, about $80 total. I plan to take some photos to upload. Dennis
Freebird Posted March 13, 2009 #130 Posted March 13, 2009 OK....I don't want Cougar sitting around waiting all night. The gauges were not yet secured in the final picture, just stuck in there. They will be straight when I get the straps put on the inside to hold them. In the first picture, it shows that i am cutting the lip off the top of the faceplate. It protrudes further than the other edges so I cut it all the way across so that the lip is equal all the way around for an almost flush mount.
Freebird Posted March 13, 2009 #131 Posted March 13, 2009 When you mount the water temp sending unit in the top of the head, how much clearance do you have for the sending unit probe to protrude into the head. Are there any clearance issues. I will be installing my water temp gauge tomorrow. I'm using an electronic Autometer marine gauge that I bought from egauges.com along with chrome housing from VDO which I plan to mount from the handlebar with a ram mount. Hope it works. It's considerably more expensive that the gauge setup you guys are using, about $80 total. I plan to take some photos to upload. Dennis I used the exact method that Goose submitted in the tech library. The probe only extended about 1/8-1/4 inch I think below he threads of the adapter. No clearance problem at all.
Tom Posted March 13, 2009 #132 Posted March 13, 2009 OK....I don't want Cougar sitting around waiting all night. The gauges were not yet secured in the final picture, just stuck in there. They will be straight when I get the straps put on the inside to hold them. In the first picture, it shows that i am cutting the lip off the top of the faceplate. It protrudes further than the other edges so I cut it all the way across so that the lip is equal all the way around for an almost flush mount. I guess you know if you made these they would sell! Id be the first...I cant build a doghouse..well I did once and it fell in.
Cougar Posted March 13, 2009 #133 Posted March 13, 2009 I think I am going to CRY That is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. Getting ride of that tape deck! GREAT JOB DON! Hey was that a stone wheel on the dremal? and what speed do you run it at? Again that is what I needed to see. Also make sure you post your strapping method as well please. I wont wait up for that tonight *lol* Jeff
Freebird Posted March 14, 2009 #134 Posted March 14, 2009 Yes, it was a stone wheel. Just happened to be the only thing I had handy but it worked fine. I ran it at full speed. I'll take some pictures of the straps tomorrow when I finish up. This took me about 6 hours. Would have been faster but I wasn't prepared. Ended up making two trips to the store.
Cougar Posted March 14, 2009 #135 Posted March 14, 2009 jlh3rd, I did order the right one then?.. says nothing about non-fouler though. does this have something to do with fouling that cylinders plug if it is not? Stupid Question?
jlh3rd Posted March 14, 2009 Author #136 Posted March 14, 2009 go into the tech section and read a write up by goose...this is where i got most of my ideas from......he describes the spark plug non fouler ( 18 mm ) you can get from advance,...autozone etc......and shows a picture.............the brass plug you have and i used screws into the top of this ,...and then the sender screws into the brass adapter......it just saves a step, .....you don't have to take an american threaded adapter and cut new threads as he describes......... it's got nothing to do with fouling a cylinder....it's just what it's called...and is used for cylinders that are burmning oil and keeps the plug end away from the oil so it will not foul...
Guest Lightnen Posted March 14, 2009 #137 Posted March 14, 2009 I went here http://www.cycleoneoff.com/Index.html And can not find the already made plug for the life of me there. I did email them though about it. no response yet as of now. Thanks for any help. I also ordered the water bolt as well. on the way. Jeff Hay there Cougar it would prob be better to call them for the fellow is usually pretty busy. I got in touch with him last week when all this started great fellow there.. He's only got the reducer thoe for the oil gauge for I asked him if he could do the water gauge as well and he is not set up for it.. Lightnen
Guest Lightnen Posted March 14, 2009 #138 Posted March 14, 2009 (edited) Well folks...I just finished installing my set. I used V7GOOSE's excellent writeup for connecting them including drilling and tapping the 20MM oil plug for the pressure switch and the neat trick for forming new threads for the water temp with the anti-fowler. Everything worked out just perfectly. I did take some pictures and will try to get them posted soon. Still have to put the fairing back together. Fired it up and made sure that all were working properly and no leaks anywhere. The set that I bought have a lot shallower face plate than the Autometer gauges. It only protrudes from the dash about 1/8". Say Freebird did the face plate on your gauges have little slots at the top of the plate so one could mount it below the car dash.. or did you trim them off!. Just wondering for mine has them slots. I was thinking of running clear silicone alone the edges for a bit of a seal.. oooooopppppppsssssy Never mind there Don I posted this before I saw your post and pic's.. Say when you used that table saw on face place did ya count your figures before use and after... Ouch Edited March 14, 2009 by Lightnen
Guest Lightnen Posted March 14, 2009 #139 Posted March 14, 2009 I've read Goose's explanation of the mounting of water temp. but just curious why do we use #1 cyclinder why not #2 at the front of engine. Just curious is all....
Freebird Posted March 14, 2009 #140 Posted March 14, 2009 Say Freebird did the face plate on your gauges have little slots at the top of the plate so one could mount it below the car dash.. or did you trim them off!. Just wondering for mine has them slots. I was thinking of running clear silicone alone the edges for a bit of a seal.. oooooopppppppsssssy Never mind there Don I posted this before I saw your post and pic's.. Say when you used that table saw on face place did ya count your figures before use and after... Ouch Yes but I it still left about half the slots. Like you mentioned, I'll probably seal them with something. Actually thinking about making a gasket to go across the tops and sides anyway not so much to keep water out but just so I get get it snug against the dash. I've read Goose's explanation of the mounting of water temp. but just curious why do we use #1 cyclinder why not #2 at the front of engine. Just curious is all.... I don't know if there is a technical reason or not. I can say that it would be much harder to get to and it just leaves more of the sensor cable to wind up and store somewhere.
Freebird Posted March 14, 2009 #141 Posted March 14, 2009 So, now that mine are all hooked up, I wonder how accurate they are? What kind of temperatures and oil pressure are you guys seeing? When mine is up to running temperature, I'm getting about 10 psi oil pressure at idle. Haven't taken it down the road yet but when I rev it to 3000 or so RPM, it seems to run at about 40. Temperature seems high. My gauge indicates about 225 before the fan comes on.
SilvrT Posted March 14, 2009 #142 Posted March 14, 2009 OK....I don't want Cougar sitting around waiting all night. The gauges were not yet secured in the final picture, just stuck in there. They will be straight when I get the straps put on the inside to hold them. In the first picture, it shows that i am cutting the lip off the top of the faceplate. It protrudes further than the other edges so I cut it all the way across so that the lip is equal all the way around for an almost flush mount. I was wondering...what that setup would look like if the mounting plate was turned the other way so that the rounded edges were at the top and the flat at the bottom??
gunboat Posted March 14, 2009 #143 Posted March 14, 2009 i went a different route, took out the cassette. installed a peace of alumin sheet into the hole. fits tight at the top, used the two small screws holes on the front w/bolts to secure it. mounted at kuryakyn chrome led battery gauge. will look at installing a 1 1/2" ammeter gauge later. the first green led light stays on and the second green led flikers on and off at different speeds. thanks don c.
jlh3rd Posted March 14, 2009 Author #144 Posted March 14, 2009 lighten you can't get a socket or wrench in the front cylinder to tighten the adapter down.....at least i couldn't freebird you seeing what i'm seeing except my temp gauge doesn't show quite that high...about 200, maybe 210 silvrt when i rotated my faceplate, the rounded corners didn't quite cover the corners
Freebird Posted March 14, 2009 #145 Posted March 14, 2009 My temps were at idle. It sat there running for maybe 20 minutes. Were your temps running or just idling? The bike has never overheated so I figure if there is that much difference, it's probably the gauges. I would like to know that they are right but I guess the main thing is that you have a base point so you can see if there is a sudden change someday.
V7Goose Posted March 14, 2009 #146 Posted March 14, 2009 jlh3rd, I did order the right one then?.. says nothing about non-fouler though. does this have something to do with fouling that cylinders plug if it is not? Stupid Question? The non-fouler is not used to mount anything, just to make an adaptor to fit the water temp sensor into the head. If you bought a commercial 18mm adaptor, you don't need the non-fouler for anything. You can mount the temp sensor in any cylinder head that does not already have a water return line in that spot. But you will find that the easiest place by far is the left rear. Don, your readings sound about right. Your oil pressure at idle will be much lower when the oil is fully hot (quite a while after the water is hot). Generally at idle, the oil pressure will be just barely off the stop pin. Normal running when fully heated up and about 3,000 RPM generally shows about 20 - 25lbs. Shop manual calls for oil to hold 50lbs at 5,000 RPM when hot, and both of mine have. The water temp normally runs right at 210 when outside temps are warm, and it will stay right there all day when you are moving. When you stop on a hot day, the temp rises pretty quick until the fan kicks in around 225 or 230, then it drops fast. If the outside temp is around 35 degrees, the water temp seems to hold closer to 200 (1 degree rise in air temp increases engine temp by 5 degrees, until it gets warm enough for the thermostat to hold it at 210. If you find just the right combination of cold riding and fast speed (about 33 degrees and 80 MPH a few days ago for me), you will find a strange combination where the thermostat cannot find a balanced setting - seems that the instant it starts to open, the water cools so fast in the radiator that the thermostat shuts quickly and you see the temp meter constantly jump between 200 and 230 as the thermostat keeps opening a little and closing. Kinda strange the first time you see it, but I guess not everyone rides all day at 33 degrees like I do! Goose
jlh3rd Posted March 14, 2009 Author #147 Posted March 14, 2009 my readings were : after running the bike about 20 min at speed, 70 mph, 5th gear......oil pressure 40, volts 13.8, temp. 200....when accelerating , dropping to 4th, oil goes to 50 psi.......if i let it idle for 5 or more mins...were..oil 8psi....temp climbs to about 220, volts about 13.5......... my temp gauge is electric, so might read different than a mechanical............voltmeter graduations are really close ,but i've checked my readings with a multi meter............startup..oil goes to about 60 to 65 psi even at idle...but will decrease as temp rises...........
jlh3rd Posted March 14, 2009 Author #148 Posted March 14, 2009 (edited) freebird i also thought about some type of gasket.....one thing that entered my mind that might work would be that chrome door edge guard material that you can get at any auto parts store which would go with a chrome faceplate.......... some people brought up an issue with the mp3 terminal being exposed to water......here is my solution...... Edited March 15, 2009 by jlh3rd
SilvrT Posted March 15, 2009 #149 Posted March 15, 2009 I couldn't help myself ... after reading all these posts (actually, it's an idea I had a while back when I removed the cassette) ... I JUST HAD TO go out and buy myself a set of gauges... Got these ones at Canadian Tire for $39.95 ... http://www.iequus.com/product_info.php?product_id=8100 Now, if ever I get my '87 out of my shop so my '06 can come back in, I just might HAVE TO tackle putting these gauges in!
Midrsv Posted March 15, 2009 #150 Posted March 15, 2009 OK guys, I mounted my temperature gauge today ran into a little snag. I bought the parts from egauges.com including their 18mm adapter for the sensor. It didn't work. It would have except the shoulder around the hole in the head was too tall so that once the adapter was screwed in you couldn't get a socket on it to tighten it up. It would need to be an extremely thin walled socket. So, I went the route of using the non-fouler and brass adapter. No problem there except when it was all put together I now have a coolant leak at the sensor. Did you guys use any thread tape or compound? I didn't because I'm using an electric gauge and wanted to be sure I had a good ground. I'm going to try to solve this tomorrow. I ran out of time today. I like the gauge and it didn't start to leak until the it got up t0 about 200 degrees. I let it idle for quite a while and it made it to 210 and the fans never kicked on. I'll post photos in a separate thread. DT
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now