jlh3rd Posted April 9, 2009 Author #226 Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) that looks better than i had imagined you'd think yamaha could make that, like, an option or something.......or a kit....but then, thinking further.....why pay yamaha some high price for what you can do yourself....for probably less than half of what they would probably charge....... Edited April 9, 2009 by jlh3rd
Freebird Posted April 9, 2009 #227 Posted April 9, 2009 Don, Can you take this Entire Thread and place into the TECH Section soon? There are so many great idea's and folks have there different ways that I think it would be good just to place the whole damn thing into it. That way when I proceed one day with this , I will be able to look back and find it. I have all my parts laying on the work bench now *lol* And sure enough if I start the project it will get sunny and warm for riding Jeff Copied to tech section.
jlh3rd Posted April 9, 2009 Author #229 Posted April 9, 2009 shouldn't this posting be in the second gen tech section?......i see its in the 1st gen
Freebird Posted April 9, 2009 #230 Posted April 9, 2009 Yes, sorry about that. I just moved it. Eyes are a bit blurry.
jlh3rd Posted April 9, 2009 Author #231 Posted April 9, 2009 i sure understand....i don't know ya'll....but i've read about your " stuff ".....very sorry.....
Ponch Posted May 12, 2009 #232 Posted May 12, 2009 Here's a drawing of the gauge plate I used. [ATTACH]30066[/ATTACH] The upper corners will have to have a radius on them to match the dash. Also, one of the gauges was a little tight (oil pressure, I think) so you may have to open it a little. You can use Aluminum, steel, ABS or just about anything that's reasonably rigid. Ponch
Kregerdoodle Posted May 12, 2009 #233 Posted May 12, 2009 And we will be seeing the pics...when.............?????????? Here's a drawing of the gauge plate I used. [ATTACH]30066[/ATTACH] The upper corners will have to have a radius on them to match the dash. Also, one of the gauges was a little tight (oil pressure, I think) so you may have to open it a little. You can use Aluminum, steel, ABS or just about anything that's reasonably rigid. Ponch
Ponch Posted May 12, 2009 #234 Posted May 12, 2009 And we will be seeing the pics...when.............?????????? Kreg, check the previous page, posts #214 & 223. Ponch
Kregerdoodle Posted May 12, 2009 #235 Posted May 12, 2009 Oh... I see.... very nice !! I`m awake now.... did you use pollished alum. or ??? That chrome really stands out aginst that white... Looks great!! Kreg, check the previous page, posts #214 & 223. Ponch
Ponch Posted May 12, 2009 #237 Posted May 12, 2009 .... did you use pollished alum. or ??? I just buffed out the surface of the flat finished alluminum bar with a 6" bench mounted buffer.
Cougar Posted May 12, 2009 #238 Posted May 12, 2009 You Rock Ponch! Thanks so much PERFECT! Just what I have been waiting for! my plate will match my dash in color got all the paint and clear coat now. Jeff
ablumny Posted June 25, 2009 #239 Posted June 25, 2009 Im knee deep in installing my gauges and I can not get the temp probe adapter to stop leakign at the head. Tried the compression gasket that came with the Non-fouler and tried a #10 o-ring gasket. ideas?
Ponch Posted June 25, 2009 #240 Posted June 25, 2009 Check the Drain plug section of the Auto Parts house where you bought the adapter. They have copper washers that fit drain plugs which seal very good. Some here have used o rings to seal as well.
ablumny Posted June 26, 2009 #241 Posted June 26, 2009 Thx. Took the plug to a different auto parts store who had a better fitting o-ring but more importantly a fatter, better fitting o-ring. Leak is gone! whew So Im proud of myself for gettign past that one. I put the whole things back together, crack the engine to test the three gauges, no oil pressure! Turns out I clamped the oil line between the gauge bracket and the plastic housing. Had to cut out the line, had to get another ferrel, such a waste of time and energy. ANyway, all done now and everythign works. Are there stats on where oil pressure and water temp should be at idle and highway speeds? btw Ponch, I used your faceplate drawing . THANK YOU !
Ponch Posted June 26, 2009 #242 Posted June 26, 2009 You're welcome. check here and here for a thread on temps and here for oil pressure. Ponch
jlh3rd Posted June 26, 2009 Author #243 Posted June 26, 2009 my oil pressure , at start up, runs about 60+.at speed.... at idle, about 40psi.......after water temp stabilizes at around 190-210.....my oil pressure runs about 28-30 psi, in 5th gear, at 70mph..at idle, about 8psi....if i shift into 3rd, or 4th....and run the revs up...my oil pressure can rise to 40-60 psi......
Steve S Posted June 26, 2009 #244 Posted June 26, 2009 Now that is what Yama should do to replace the Lame cassete deck that NO ONE uses. I resemble that remark. I have a Neil Diamond tape that I cannot get on CD so I listen to it while I am riding. At lease once every 3 years... LOL :banana: :dancefool: I'm too lazy to put it on a disc.. But I do want one of the stainless dash covers. That looks GREAT! :clap2:
rdunbar123 Posted July 19, 2009 #245 Posted July 19, 2009 hey guys, I am having a B*tch of a time getting the 10MM plug out of the cylinder head are you guys using a socket and then tapping on it with a hammer or what. I am always afraid of breaking something(usually my fingers). got the oil on fine
ablumny Posted July 19, 2009 #246 Posted July 19, 2009 You're welcome. check here and here for a thread on temps and here for oil pressure. Ponch Thanks POnch. Been away for a while. Looks like my gauges are working as expected.
V7Goose Posted July 19, 2009 #247 Posted July 19, 2009 hey guys, I am having a B*tch of a time getting the 10MM plug out of the cylinder head are you guys using a socket and then tapping on it with a hammer or what. I am always afraid of breaking something(usually my fingers). got the oil on fine Yes, that water plug IS tough to remove - it is cemented in. Either a hammer or a cheater bar will solve the problem (but you don't know me if something breaks!). Goose
rdunbar123 Posted July 20, 2009 #248 Posted July 20, 2009 finally just pushed until it and my bicep broke. I got it loose and my arm hurts. It almost acted like it was cross threaded at first but came out fine. I have threatened the mechanic at my local shop to execute him if he ever used the strong loctite on my bike. I know this came from the factory. I wonder what those plugs were intended for. Also if you have your venture lowered without the shorty stand, a small amount of oil comes out.
jlh3rd Posted July 20, 2009 Author #249 Posted July 20, 2009 rdunbar read your post too late....but , in the future, if you have a bolt that you know or suspect is loctited...you need to heat that bolt up to release the loctite.....when i can't use a torch...i have a heat gun i use
rdunbar123 Posted July 25, 2009 #250 Posted July 25, 2009 all finished, rode around to check it out. no leaks, oil pressure 60+ at throttle, water between 190,210. thanks to all on this website.
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