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Posted

then i read it wrong.....that's where the confusion is coming from.......cause i installed the non fouler with an 18mm adapter from egauges into the cylinder head , then installed the sender into that brass adapter...........i apologize if i've mis-lead anyone........

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Posted
then i read it wrong.....that's where the confusion is coming from.......cause i installed the non fouler with an 18mm adapter from egauges into the cylinder head , then installed the sender into that brass adapter...........i apologize if i've mis-lead anyone........

 

You're using a mechanical or electrical gauge?

 

and hey... no apology neccessary!

Posted
i'm using an electrical..........but, as i've said in previous posts, i'd use mechanical,... knowing what i know now..

 

I asked to save reading backwards to check my memory (I did recall you using electrical coz I looked closely at your fittings pics). I haven't checked yet but it appears that if I use the non-fouler, plus the adapter, plus the fittings for the sending unit, I won't have enuf room.

Posted
no,... there is room, unless your mechanical sending unit is taller than mine.....

 

Looking at the pic of yours (the electrical one), yes, mine is taller if I use the non-fouler also. I would then have the non-fouler, the modified adapter, the fitting from the kit and then the sending unit. Take away the non-fouler, and mine would be about the same height. (methinks)

Posted

yeh.....my bad......the non fouler is just used to cut new threads in a brass adapter..THEN that adapter is screwed into the cylinder head.......

Posted
yeh.....my bad......the non fouler is just used to cut new threads in a brass adapter..THEN that adapter is screwed into the cylinder head.......

 

eh? .. what bad? it's all good!

 

Well, thanks to you and your suggestion to use a rubber O-ring, I'm happy to report that I no longer have a coolant leak!

 

What a great thread this was.. extremely informant and helpful! What a great bunch of guys... thanks all of you!

Guest Lightnen
Posted

Well fellow's I think I've come across another problem at least here that is. Problem is I've got power on that extra wire that was an exzillory wire. Lets see, I cut the two wires about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the white plug and added the possitive side of Amp gauge, now the wires left I put to negitive side of amp gauge with this extra wire for exzillory (whitch I put a 6 gang fuse panel. Now I just hooked up my saddle rail lights and fliped the switch and they came on. Hmmmmmm I thought this extra wire would be governed my the main key switch whitch it is not. Now I'm wondering if this is hooked up right or did I blow or short out the plug wires perhaps..:nanner:

Posted

If you hooked up the wires exactly like I described in the tech article, the aux power wire will always be hot - you use it for anything that you would ordinarily want to connect directly to the battery. If you want the circuit to be switched with the key, like with driving lights, run the power to a light relay and have the relay energized from the existing headlight circuit. I probably would not connect low current draw running lights to that aux circuit - nothing wrong with that, but just not necessary. Instead, connect extra LED lights to the existing bike light circuits at the plug behind the battery. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

Guest Lightnen
Posted

Ok got ya there Goose, think I've got a handle on this now. Should have used a meter on this first. Did a test run last night and found that my fan does come on around 220 Degrees which is good to know.. Just a hopping I don't spring any leaks.. LOL

Posted

I thought I would try to flush mount mine. I like it. I used 1/8" 2024 Aluminum plate and massaged it to fit in the cassette door opening, polished the face and secured it from behind using the cassette player mounting holes.

Posted
what is the 2024 number mean and why?

Polish better?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

Naw, its just the grade we have at work. There are a lot of different grades. 2024 and 7075 machine very well. 6061 is a little softer but welds better.

Ponch

Posted

yep, i was hoping someone would do that........i bet the entire assembly doesn't run over $75, including gauges....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc.

Posted
yep, i was hoping someone would do that........i bet the entire assembly doesn't run over $75, including gauges....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc.

 

Have had a little set back involving non-bike issues. (Pesky Honey-do's) When I get it all back together, I'll shoot a couple more pics.

Guest Saddletramp
Posted

Ponch, thats a nice looking job!!!

Posted
....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc.

 

Finally got it all back together. Don't they know its riding seaon? These chores eventually gotta take a back seat to riding.

 

Anyway here's some shots of it put back together.

Posted

Don, Can you take this Entire Thread and place into

the TECH Section soon? There are so many great idea's

and folks have there different ways that I think it would

be good just to place the whole damn thing into it. :think:

 

That way when I proceed one day with this , I will be able

to look back and find it. I have all my parts laying on the work

bench now *lol* And sure enough if I start the project it

will get sunny and warm for riding :D

Jeff

Posted

Awesome Job Ponch! :thumbsup2:

I will be doing the same thing I believe.

I like how the plate fits right into that space

WELL DONE! very professional!

Jeff

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