Torque Wrench Question.

[NLAlston]

I went to Harbor Freight, the other day, and picked up a Torque Wrench for work on my bike. The one I bought is a 1/2" drive - 20-150ft lb unit. If memory serves me correct, the torque for spark plugs is 12.5ft lb (or somewhere around that). I will make doubly sure, before I attempt to do any actual work, but I do know that their torque requirements are below the minimum range of what I bought.

 

I will need to get another, but will have to go elsewhere - as I believe that HF only had the range-type that I bought. I would appreciate some info on just what I would need, in a torque wrench, which would serve all torquing requirements for my '83 VR.

[gibvel]

Don't know if they make and don't know if you would want a "One tool does all" I figure that a wrench that would work over the entire range required for this bike would not be as accurate on some ranges as others. I actually have 3 wrenches. You'll probably find that the ones for the lower torque range will have to be in inch pounds (quick math should get you where you need to be).

 

My

[Rocket]

You could go with a inch pounds torque wrench for the light stuff. Just take the ft pound readings X by 12 to convert to inch pounds. But many of us just make sure the item is snug without, using a torque wrench if below the scale.

[RSTDinPA]

I went to Harbor Freight, the other day, and picked up a Torque Wrench for work on my bike. The one I bought is a 1/2" drive - 20-150ft lb unit. If memory serves me correct, the torque for spark plugs is 12.5ft lb (or somewhere around that). I will make doubly sure, before I attempt to do any actual work, but I do know that their torque requirements are below the minimum range of what I bought.

 

I will need to get another, but will have to go elsewhere - as I believe that HF only had the range-type that I bought. I would appreciate some info on just what I would need, in a torque wrench, which would serve all torquing requirements for my '83 VR.

 

I found a 3/8 inch drive tourque wrench at Pep Boy's that does 10-150. About covers it. I only have a few 1/2 inch sockets so the one I got works with my existing sockets. Seems to work pretty weel and I got it on sale for $39.

[Stoutman]

I have three HF torque wrenches. 1/2 inch drive, 3/8 inch drive ,and 1/4 inch drive. Between them they cover the whole range. I like to use them on the bike because we have steel fasteners going into cast aluminum parts and they are easy to over tighten.

 

With torque wrenches I worry about calibration. I found my 30 year old 1/2 inch torque wrench from a different manufacturer to be way out of spec on the low range. It was clicking at about 1/2 the torque setting, leaving my bolts loose. That is why I bought a new wrench.

[SilvrT]

1/2 inch drive sockets/ratchets, etc are generally too big for working on motorcycles and 3/8 or 1/4 drive are much better. usually a good idea to stick with one "common" size and 3/8 would be my suggestion. As for the torque wrench, I rarely use one and would probably only use one if I was tightening down the heads or bearings such as main bearings or con rod bearings because proper torque is critical there.

 

(all IMHO)

[Guest JGorom]

For plugs I have always hand tightened...then snuged them up with the socket wrench...then about another 1/8th to 1/4 turn. PLUS...ALWAYS use never sieze on the plug threads.

[Guest trgnkght]

the mot accurate use of a torque wrench is when the torque falls within 50 to 90% of the range of the torque wrench. but I agree with JGorom i would just do it by feel, snug it up.

[SilvrT]

ALWAYS use never sieze on the plug threads.

 

I've NEVER used that (or anything else) on plug threads. I suppose it's not a bad idea but I've never seen a situation where is should have been used and I've changed 100's of plugs over the years.

 

(just my $0.05)

[Yammer Dan]

I've NEVER used that (or anything else) on plug threads. I suppose it's not a bad idea but I've never seen a situation where is should have been used and I've changed 100's of plugs over the years.

 

(just my $0.05)

 

Ne neither but keep seeing posts of people that do. Why??

[gibvel]

Ne neither but keep seeing posts of people that do. Why??

 

 

Because there are those of us who are more anal than you can possibly imagine!!!! :rotf:

[Tupperj]

Just to add to this with regard to the care and feeding of torque wrenches. One thing I've read, and it makes sense to me, is that torque wrenches, at least of the "clicker" type, should be stored with the setting at it's lowest level. Why? Takes the tension off the spring mechanism and helps keep it more accurate. At least that was the consensus on one of the other boards I monitor.

 

YMMV,

Paul

[flb_78]

You use anti seize or never seize on the thread of the steel plugs in the aluminum heads so when you remove the plugs, the aluminum threads stay in the heads. Anti seize is a very thick, heavy lubricant that won't cook off or boil out of the threads like motor oil or ATF. I always use it on spark plugs for the bikes.

 

 

If you use a clicker type torque wrench, yes, you should set it on the lowest setting when it's not being used.

 

I personally use a German made torque wrench called "Gudentite".

 

I torque 'em down till they're good 'n tight.

[juggler]

I bought a low range Torque wrench from Harbor Freight when I did my clutch rebuild. It measures in inch pounds.

 

Take another look, they were right next to each other in the store I went too.

[mbrood]

I agree with Juggler... the smaller was a 1/4 inch drive and just perfect for the clutch and things that need a lower torque. Small and easy to wield... nice for spark plugs too... and that ole 1/2 inch drive, 18 inch long one is just not handy in the confines of the spark plugs area.

 

It's tough to hope for a tool that does everything but then... isn't it part of the universal rule that you will always need one more tool? (Those large allen bolts in the fork tubes come readily to mind.)

[hipshot]

after you have used a torque wrench , for a few years, you arrive at a point, where you don't really need one.

nuts and bolts can be tightened by "feel" just as close as you can get them with a torque wrench.

spark plug settings, are usually not THAT critical.

just jt

[Kurt]

after you have used a torque wrench , for a few years, you arrive at a point, where you don't really need one.

nuts and bolts can be tightened by "feel" just as close as you can get them with a torque wrench.

spark plug settings, are usually not THAT critical.

just jt

 

Exactly correct. The problem is that until you get that feel you can twist off bolts or strip threads, which creates a whole new game to play.

 

One question for those using never seize compounds. Are you using a product that is compatable with aluminum? Certain ones are actually caustic to aluminum. I have never put never sieze on a spark plug and am not convinced of the need. One thing to remember is that all torque specs are for clean dry threads. Adding any lube changes the whole picture. Don't take me wrong, never sieze has its place and I do use it in certain areas. Just need to pay attention to what type in each application. Use it wherever you deem fit.

[bongobobny]

after you have used a torque wrench , for a few years, you arrive at a point, where you don't really need one.

nuts and bolts can be tightened by "feel" just as close as you can get them with a torque wrench.

spark plug settings, are usually not THAT critical.

just jt

 

Try telling that to Enzo Ferarri...

 

No, unless you are building a racing machine, I will generally agree with you, however, there are many instances when proper torquing and torquing techniques are essential unless you want to stress and distort metal. A good rule of thumb (whatever that means) is if there are 3 or more bolts holding the part on, you are better served torquing down in a specific sequence.

 

I use permatex antiseize on any thread that is not in an area that receives oil because when it's time to take the bolt out again, it will come out with no problems. All threads should be inspected and cleaned prior to installation. The biggest mistake people make is using WAYYY too much of the product. Just a fine thin coat is all you need...

[juggler]

Exactly correct. The problem is that until you get that feel you can twist off bolts or strip threads, which creates a whole new game to play.

 

Oh, I've done that several times over the years. I've been known to twist lug bolts right off the car with just my hands and a standard tire iron. I've busted head bolts off on and old outboard motor ages ago. I rely on the torque wrench to keep me from breaking things and keeping my life simpler.

[Phoenix]

Regarding torque and anti-seize, you need to reduce dry thread torque values by 10-15% when using anti-seize or any other lubricant. No big deal, to do. I usually figure 10% because it is easy to calculate in your head.

 

I use anti-seize on every bolt I take out and reinstall on the bike. A good mechanic once told me that if you properly torque a bolt, it won't back out. Therefore, anti-seize is often more useful than threadlock.

 

Phoenix