2nd Gen Carb Rebuild Kit

[Guest retusn]

I searched and couldn't find much info on a rebuild kit. I'm still having problems with fuel coming out of the carb vent tube. I looked and it is #3 carb that is "overflowing". Any help would be appreciated. BTW, I have run a little seafoam thru, but didn't want to ride if fuel is dripping out.

[Squeeze]

You need to run some Fuel through the Carb or it won't stop. You should give the Stuff a good Chance to get to the Job done. Seafoam will loosen up the Crud, but when you let the Floater Valve kept close, fresh Fuel can't wash the Crud away of the Valve Seat. Take a ride at least 20 or 30 mils and run the C..p out of the Bike(and the Carbs). No Babying, only 3rd gear and open Throttle.

[V7Goose]

I do not believe there is a rebuild kit available for these carbs, but that is immaterial to your problem.

 

Fuel overflow is ONLY related to the functioning of the float and float valve. There was another recent thread on this subject where I provided detailed suggestions, so I won't repeat them here. In short, you need to pull the carb assembly, inspect the float valve needle and seat, and properly set the float level. Your problem will be fixed.

Goose

[skydoc_17]

Hey Bob,

I'm Not sure weather or not to try to sway you with Technobabble so Let me just point out a few facts and let you make your own decision. The Second Generation Venture is visually deceptive by nature, it looks like the kinda' bike that one would think you could just "putt" around on, but in reality the power plant design of this bike is over 25 years old. It was designed to be ridden in the upper RPM range, and quite frankly the harder you run it, the better it likes it. Because of the hot arid climate you live in, and because your fuel is basically "boiling" (Vaporizing) at room temperature, if fuel isn't moving regularly thru the carbs. varnish will build up and clog the very small tubes and seats in the Carb. body. Seafoam is like Draino, it removes the varnish but can't do it's job if it is not forced thru these tiny areas and allowed to dissolve the build-up. In the case of a stuck float the "hinge" that the float pivots on can be compromised by the varnish build up as well. Everything you have described are classic examples of a bike that has not been run hard and had vaporizing fuel clog the system up. The cure is to use plenty of Seafoam, and as a member of the forum once said, (and I really like this) "Run it like you hate it!) Unless of course you like doing a total rebuild of your carbs. every 4 to 5 years. One final area to watch, watch your oil level, fuel leaking from the Carbs. could end up in the crank case and a rise in the oil level is an indication of this happening. :confused24:Just my thoughts for what they are worth,

Earl

Edited February 13, 2009 by skydoc_17
Spelling..What else!

[1sttenor]

This is an area where I have to push myself too. I like to putt along. I know that the engine in these things want to run like he__. So I use sea foam every couple of months and run it hard much harder than normal for that tank. I think of it as preventive FUN! That was good advise given to me by the forum. FWIW.

[Tartan Terror]

There is really no rebuild kit as the gaskets are reuseable o-rings and such. Try the seafoam first and let it sit. IF that does not work then take them out and just clean this but do one carb at a time. Do not let the orings sit in carb cleaner long as they will swell and go bad.

 

I know this because I plan to do a jet change on mine and just got of the phone with PCW racing. John there is amazing and he told me that he recommends using simple green to clean them while apart.

[KiteSquid]

Every once in a while I have to leave MrsSquid at SquidAcres so I can clean out the carbs.... She doesn't like Wide Open Throttle runs, but I do!!!!!!!

[Guest retusn]

V7Goose and All,

Thanks for the input. I have tried to locate the thread that V7Goose explains how to set the floats, but can't locate it. Your help would be appreciated.

 

Bob

[BoomerCPO]

When I purchased my 06 in late Nov-07 the bike had sat in the Dealers warehouse for over 8 months! You can only imagine how gunked up everything was.

 

Taking the advice from members of this Forum I dumped an entire can of SeaFoam into a fresh tank of gas.....and then hit the Interstate! For the better part of the day I ran the bike like I was trying to blow the engine up....and the scoot loved it. By the end of the day everything was clean and the scoot was purring like a kitten.

 

SeaFoam will work but you have to remember this: These Ventures LOVE high RPM's. They are not your GrandPa's Goldwing. Keep SeaFoam in the tank and the RPM's high and your carb troubles will never appear again.

 

Boomer.....aka "Maximus Throttleus"

[V7Goose]

V7Goose and All,

Thanks for the input. I have tried to locate the thread that V7Goose explains how to set the floats, but can't locate it. Your help would be appreciated.

 

Bob

The thread is in both the 2ng Gen tech talk forum AND the tech library. A search on float level finds it. Here is the link:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24246

[OutlawRider]

Like BoomerCPO I bought my 08 RSV that was sitting on the dealers floor for 6 to 8 months it has a pop in the exaust. The dealer said it is because they set these bike up lean. I have heard other that do not do this. Will the seafoam help. It only has 150 miles on the bike and going by the book for break in. I am not to turn the throttle like you guys are talking about to get the seafoam to work. What is your guys advise. Thanks.

[Squeeze]

Like BoomerCPO I bought my 08 RSV that was sitting on the dealers floor for 6 to 8 months it has a pop in the exaust. The dealer said it is because they set these bike up lean. I have heard other that do not do this. Will the seafoam help. It only has 150 miles on the bike and going by the book for break in. I am not to turn the throttle like you guys are talking about to get the seafoam to work. What is your guys advise. Thanks.

 

Just ride like you stole it. The ride it like your hate it Part will be next Level ...

 

Seriously, you won't hurt the Engine. In Fact you are a Point were you should put it harder to the Motor or you will have a weaker Engine for Lifetime.

 

Take a Look here ...

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

I'm not saying should go in full Throttle and run it at WOT on the Superslab but follow this Advise is a good Idea. His Arguments are valid.

[OutlawRider]

Thank you sqeeze for the info. Great link. Full of info I did not know. Time to twist the throttle. We all want to maintain full power and performance and longer engine life. Means more time on the road.

[Squeeze]

I'd really suggest a Tach to all the 2Genners. I feel most are lugging their Engines and thats not good. At least during Break In, one should have a Tach attached to really see what's going on ...

 

Here's what i wrote somewhere else about my Plan to break in my new VMax ...

 

I try to explain my Plan ... keep in Mind, i've done 50 km with a Lot changing Rpms and Load at not more than 5 k, one short run to 6k at low Load included.

 

Put a Tape to the Throttle Grip and mark four Areas at the Casing of the Grip. 25-50 Percent with green, 50-75 Percent with Yellow and 75 to 100 Percent with red Tape. This way you can control actual Load better during riding. Say, for the first Run take 3rd Gear and apply 25 Percent Throttle, let the RpM rise to 6k and back off Throttle, let the Bike coast all the Way down to 1500 Rpm or so. This coasting between the Runs is important because the Sucktion this will cause helps to get the Shavings away from the Cylinder Wall.

 

Then let the Motor cool down. Stopping would be your best Shot. Then a new Set of three or four Runs, another cool down Period.

 

You see, my personal Procedure is like the Motoman says, but not that extreme hard on the Engine at the Beginning of the Procedure.

 

I plan on 12 or even 15 Runs with increased RpM and Load, ending at 8 k with fill Load. When this done, change the Oils and go riding like you "normally" do. No holding back except full Throttle and full Rpm for a longer than a Minute or two. After another 200 Miles, the Engine should be ready to give anything you like to have.