Squidley Posted February 11, 2009 #1 Posted February 11, 2009 I am in the middle of getting Dave Pankows bike ready to roll for the season. I have the carbs off and #2 air/fuel screw isn't coming out. I have tried everything and it's just not going to come. I dont need a whole bank of carbs, just #2 the others came out. What I need is if any of you 1st genners have even just the body of #2 carb that I can transfer all the other parts into. This is an '86 1300 and I can use all the help I can get, thanks for the time
bongobobny Posted February 11, 2009 #2 Posted February 11, 2009 Will you be at Carl's M&E in March at Green Acres? Can it wait that long??
Squeeze Posted February 11, 2009 #3 Posted February 11, 2009 Squdiley, did you try the old Trick with boring a Hole and pounding a Torx Bit into the Mixture Screw ?? I think a TX-20 or TX-25 should be the best Size. The Hole should be only about teh Size of the Center of the Torx and 2/10 " deep. Then drive the Torx-Bit into the Hole. Put the Carb on the Bench and insert a T-Handle to the Bit. Push the Handle down with a Lot of Force and break the Screw loose with one decent Snap of the Wrist. Worked for me about 10 Times or so. If the Bit snaps out of the Boring, it's Time to bring up the Valve Grind Agent on the Tip of the Torx-Bit.
wild hair 39 Posted February 11, 2009 #4 Posted February 11, 2009 what about a left handed twist drill,ihave a complete set 1/16 to 1/2,saw a set at the bearring supply house yesterday,maybe a little heat also
93 venture Posted February 11, 2009 #5 Posted February 11, 2009 I have used a small brazing tip and heated the head of the bolt red hot and then put it under cold water,the shock will sometimes loosen the screw up.
Squidley Posted February 11, 2009 Author #6 Posted February 11, 2009 Will you be at Carl's M&E in March at Green Acres? Can it wait that long?? I'll get ahold of you Bob, I would like to try to get it sooner but beggars can't be choosey. Lutz, I did try that and it's just being a bear to get out, I haven't heated it as I didn't want to destroy all the gaskets and o rings inside. As always fellas thank you for your input and we'll come up with some thing
jasonm. Posted February 12, 2009 #7 Posted February 12, 2009 I believe fuel mixture screws are brass...I don't know how much force they can take. I always resort to PB blaster...lots of PB. The carbs are not your typical aluminum. They are a different metal. Heat can damage them.
StuD Posted February 12, 2009 #8 Posted February 12, 2009 I believe fuel mixture screws are brass...I don't know how much force they can take. I always resort to PB blaster...lots of PB. The carbs are not your typical aluminum. They are a different metal. Heat can damage them. PB blaster?? what dat???:canada:
Squidley Posted February 12, 2009 Author #9 Posted February 12, 2009 PB blaster?? what dat???:canada: Good stuff http://www.levineautoparts.com/pbblaster.html
gunboat Posted February 12, 2009 #10 Posted February 12, 2009 hi brad pb blaster is so good stuff. when i lived in cleveland, oh, i found some at a big lots store. but i belive auto zone, advance auto parts or any other auto parts store should cary it. also i be live it's made in ohio. best reguards don c.
bongobobny Posted February 12, 2009 #11 Posted February 12, 2009 Yah! Good stuff!! Brad, give me a call preferably evenings, I'm usually home after 4:00 Not a big problem to ship, was just thinking of saving a few bucks but it's no big deal. I'll take the problem one in return and see what I can do with it...
CrazyHorse Posted February 12, 2009 #12 Posted February 12, 2009 I have a set of 1984 carbs I use for parts will one of them work for you?
dragerman Posted February 12, 2009 #13 Posted February 12, 2009 I’ve had great success using a “Spiral flute screw extractor” for those types of situations. They will work so long as you have enough room to drill a hole into the part you’d like to remove. Once you drill the hole you tap the easy-out into the hole and turn it counterclockwise. I have used them in some fairly desperate situations and like I said have had great success. There is also a square extractor (as opposed to the spiral... either one works well) and they come in various sizes, just make sure you buy a good quality or brand name. It’s one of those tools that if even if you only use it once it will have paid for itself! Check out this link; http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=10474&group_ID=1261&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Good luck!
Squeeze Posted February 12, 2009 #14 Posted February 12, 2009 I’ve had great success using a “Spiral flute screw extractor” for those types of situations. They will work so long as you have enough room to drill a hole into the part you’d like to remove. Once you drill the hole you tap the easy-out into the hole and turn it counterclockwise. I have used them in some fairly desperate situations and like I said have had great success. There is also a square extractor (as opposed to the spiral... either one works well) and they come in various sizes, just make sure you buy a good quality or brand name. It’s one of those tools that if even if you only use it once it will have paid for itself! Check out this link; http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=10474&group_ID=1261&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Good luck! I have had two Sets of those ... When i needed them at most they where there for me, right in the Scrap Bin. I've never had the Luck of getting them to work for me.
dragerman Posted February 12, 2009 #15 Posted February 12, 2009 I have had two Sets of those ... When i needed them at most they where there for me, right in the Scrap Bin. I've never had the Luck of getting them to work for me. I’m surprised to hear that. Reading back what I didn’t mention is that when you put the extractor in the hole you have to ‘tap’ it in. I use a small tack hammer, tap the extractor in then tap and turn at the same time. You’ll know once the tool ‘bites’ into the hole and you can stop tapping and apply slow steady pressure. Be careful though because these extractors will really bite in and if you apply too much pressure too fast you can snap the tool in the hole (don’t ask me how I know). From my experience the whole act of lubricating, drilling and tapping also seems to help loosen the grip on the threads. Make sure the hole is deep enough so that the extractor can turn in far enough to get a bite without hitting the end of the hole and be patient. I can honestly say that it always worked for me. I use to repair compressors as a side line and have used it many times. I’ve only snapped the extractor once, it just takes practice...
Squeeze Posted February 12, 2009 #16 Posted February 12, 2009 I’m surprised to hear that. Reading back what I didn’t mention is that when you put the extractor in the hole you have to ‘tap’ it in. I use a small tack hammer, tap the extractor in then tap and turn at the same time. You’ll know once the tool ‘bites’ into the hole and you can stop tapping and apply slow steady pressure. Be careful though because these extractors will really bite in and if you apply too much pressure too fast you can snap the tool in the hole (don’t ask me how I know). From my experience the whole act of lubricating, drilling and tapping also seems to help loosen the grip on the threads. Make sure the hole is deep enough so that the extractor can turn in far enough to get a bite without hitting the end of the hole and be patient. I can honestly say that it always worked for me. I use to repair compressors as a side line and have used it many times. I’ve only snapped the extractor once, it just takes practice... I'm working on Construction Machines as well as on big Trucks, Cars, Motorcylces, whatever and i'm familiar with the Usage of such Tools. I didn't work for me or one of my Employees. If you had better Luck, congrats. I think it's different if you snapped the Bolt because it is corroded or stuck in Place or if it you just stripped the Head off.
CrazyHorse Posted February 12, 2009 #17 Posted February 12, 2009 I'm working on Construction Machines as well as on big Trucks, Cars, Motorcylces, whatever and i'm familiar with the Usage of such Tools. I didn't work for me or one of my Employees. If you had better Luck, congrats. I think it's different if you snapped the Bolt because it is corroded or stuck in Place or if it you just stripped the Head off. I've never had luck with them either.
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