High Output Stator from Buckeye Performance

[Joopster55]

Recently recieved the new stator from Buckeye Performance. Is there a thread on information with step by step directions with pics on the removal of the stock stator and the installation of the new stator?

 

I've been searching, but unable to find anything.

 

Any help is most grateful.

[GeorgeS]

Basicly just remove both Case Covers on left side of engine. ( You have to remove the aft cover also, to access the Wireing bundles)

 

After cover is off, Its just a few small bolts, to change the Unit.

 

The one sticking point is the Gasket that Seals the 3 large wires from the Stator, and the 5 small wires from the " Ignition Pick Up Coils "

 

Be sure to order New Gaskets, for the Case Covers !!!! ( Both of them )

 

Also, the Lower Bolt, on the Aft Cover, has a Brass Crush Washer, that makes an Oil Seal. Its advisable to order a few of those and keep on hand.

[waterbug]

Does this give you enough that you can run all your lights and heated cloths if you wish? I was told that there wasnt a larger out put stater available. Were did you find or get this? thanks

[GeorgeS]

The stock unit is rated at 30 Amps, at 3000 RPM.

 

The Buckeye Pref Unit is claimed to put out almost 40 Amps.

 

Your heated clothing, draws about 2.5 amps for each piece of clothing.

 

You can also save about 2 Amps, by useing LED Tail light bulbs, and front marker bulbs.

[1BigDog]

Joopster..I PM'ed you a link for a step by step guide to replacement. Maybe one day ill make up a tech article on the procedure. I took enough pictures of mine.......

[DLBCAL]

Recently recieved the new stator from Buckeye Performance. Is there a thread on information with step by step directions with pics on the removal of the stock stator and the installation of the new stator?

 

I've been searching, but unable to find anything.

 

Any help is most grateful.

 

I might add to the other good advice you have received there are a couple of starter drive gears inside the same cover as the stator. When I pulled the cover they popped out and fell into my oil pan. Oops!

 

No big deal their is a picture in the service manual showing what it should look like and they popped right back in.

 

I'd also mention when you remove the rear cover a fair bit of oil will spill out. Make sure you have a pan under there to catch it.

 

What else? Check the connector by the battery box where the three white wires plug in. They can melt and cause further problems. Some folks remove the connector and solder the wires together.

 

I am not a very good mechanic but I was able to replace the stator in my bike a few years back. The bolts holding the stator to the side cover gave me the most trouble. I had to fight with them for an hour or more to get them out. Miserable suckers. I ended up drilling one of them out.

 

I wish the high power stator was available then.

 

It was about a four hour job for me, but I was working very deliberately and slowly.

[pegscraper]

Buckeye's HO stator for 2nd gens will crank out 55 amps, not 40. That's enough to operate heated gear for two plus anything else you want to run. No need to bother with LED lights.

 

http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p24.htm

[Joopster55]

Got the new stator installed. Went into it blind other than the manual I have. But the info that GeorgeS & Ruffy gave me helped a lot. Thanks guys, you saved me & Russ a lot of time.

Everything works good, just need some warm weather for a good ride.

For those of you who want to change over to the higher output stator, make sure you have all the right step by step directions and all the right tools to do this job. It's not something that you think you can complete in a couple of hours, and you need to be patient.

[1BigDog]

Got the new stator installed.

 

Good grief....you did it in one day?? I made a week out of it.....kept me away from housework for a while.....one day you guys will learn the tricks of the trade so to speak....

 

Glad it worked out well for ya.

[Joopster55]

Be careful when you scrape the old caskets off the casings. I have a cut on my hand when the scraper slipped. And brake cleaner fluid and an open cut on your hand don't mix very well.

[Cougar]

Could one of you guys email the step be step instructions

when you get a chance? I will be doing this as well.

Much Appreciated!

Thanks,

Jeff

[jemorrisonjr]

I'm getting ready to do mine... came in the mail today and have all winter to do it... So if anyone has the step by step instructions I would love them.. A good list of tools would be good also

[1sttenor]

Hey Mr. Moderators,

Could those be posted in the tech section? I'd like to do that later this winter, but I've still got more riding to do!

[BradT]

And brake cleaner fluid and an open cut on your hand don't mix very well.

 

Thought you were doing the stator, where did you put the Brake Fluid ?

 

Brad

[Seaking]

I might add to the other good advice you have received there are a couple of starter drive gears inside the same cover as the stator. When I pulled the cover they popped out and fell into my oil pan. Oops!

 

No big deal their is a picture in the service manual showing what it should look like and they popped right back in.

 

I'd also mention when you remove the rear cover a fair bit of oil will spill out. Make sure you have a pan under there to catch it.

 

What else? Check the connector by the battery box where the three white wires plug in. They can melt and cause further problems. Some folks remove the connector and solder the wires together.

 

I am not a very good mechanic but I was able to replace the stator in my bike a few years back. The bolts holding the stator to the side cover gave me the most trouble. I had to fight with them for an hour or more to get them out. Miserable suckers. I ended up drilling one of them out.

 

I wish the high power stator was available then.

 

It was about a four hour job for me, but I was working very deliberately and slowly.

 

How was the soldering? They mention that being required? I have a HD stator in my VStar which works very nicely

[saddlebum]

Thought you were doing the stator, where did you put the Brake Fluid ?

 

Brad

Silly Man, cleaning the brakes is the first step to doing any job well. :bang head:

Thats why Brake clean is always the first thing on your grocery list :rotfl:

[GS51]

I noticed that everybody is changing to a high output stater. That's always good mor amps the better. But comming from an electrical background it rases a question

I don't know about the 2nd gens but I know on the MK1 the manual states that the stater is rated at 30 amps and the voltage regulater is rated at 27 amps max. now you cam get more out of both if you cam cool them but that's hard to do in this case so it would not be recomended.

My experiance has been that even if the stater is able to supply 55 amps or more if the voltage regulater can only handle 27amps. The 27 amps of the voltage regulater is still the max current you can draw. Are you replacing the voltage regulater along with the stater. Most of the voltage regulaters I have found searching the net are still just 30 amps. i did find one that uses new technology mosfet switching regulater that is rated at 50 amps and can be increased with additional heatsinking. but thats it.

 

On my MK1 I was tracing the wireing diagrams and it shows 3 wires comming off the voltage regulater +12 VDC, -12VDC / Ground and one that goes to the +12 VDC from the switch. Dose anybody know what the 3rd wire is for, could it be for remote voltage sense like they do on some GM systems if so then it is not necessary and could ber left off on an upgrade.

 

I don't mean to stir the pot but I am just trying to learn something from those who have done the upgrade in the past as to how they solved that problem.

 

Thanks

[Dano]

A lot of us have changed the r/r to a new Shindegan r/r (ebay item # Shindengen Voltage Regulator / Rectifier (#250484850538) ) that we get from Indian Motorcycle. Rated 50 amps with air cooling. Just did over 50 of them on a group buy. Runs about 40 bucks online at the above link.

[Sylvester]

I could be wrong, but isn't the Buckeye Performance HO stator made and sold by Rick's Electronics also? If so, they do not recommend soldering the wires from what I understand.

 

[Snaggletooth]

From what I undestand Rick at Buckeye and Ricks Electronics are two different outfits. No connection at all. Rick at Buckeye is a member here and provides excellent service and parts.

 

I got mine from Buckeye last spring and it's doing a heck of a job. And as a side note.... the 1st gen upgrade does not provide 55 amps like the 2nd gen model. A little over maybe 30% improvement over stock but that is a heck of a change on a 1st gen.

 

Rick at Buckeye will say solder the 3 wires on either 1st gen or 2nd. The stock plug is junk as it is and that solder job keeps the amps flowing with no restriction. I did mine and most everybody else recommends it to.

[Sylvester]

Thanks, that puts an end to my "listening to others". I have installed the Buckeye stator on a friends RSV but I have never seen the need for myself. I run heated jacket and gloves but sparingly. I have LED tail and turn and always shut off the pass lights when using the heated clothing. I also have switched the carb heaters so I can turn them off.

 

[Joopster55]

For step by step instructions on installation go here; www.venturers.org

Buckeye performance recommends to solder the wires. I've ran mine all spring and summer pulling a trailer without any problems.

[Rocket]

Rick at Buckeye will say solder the 3 wires on either 1st gen or 2nd. The stock plug is junk as it is and that solder job keeps the amps flowing with no restriction. I did mine and most everybody else recommends it to.

 

There was no such instructions, with my 1st gen Stator, from Buckeye. The stator had the stock plug on it too.

 

With the Rick's Motorsport Electrics stators, that I installed in Cody at the Venture Roundup. It was the same as Buckeye, no info included & stock plug attached.

 

[BradT]

But comming from an electrical background it rases a question

I don't know about the 2nd gens but I know on the MK1 the manual states that the stater is rated at 30 amps and the voltage regulater is rated at 27 amps max. now you cam get more out of both if you cam cool them but that's hard to do in this case so it would not be recomended.

My experiance has been that even if the stater is able to supply 55 amps or more if the voltage regulater can only handle 27amps. The 27 amps of the voltage regulater is still the max current you can draw.

 

I am no electrical guru (actually I do not like it) but I did not think most were changing the rectifier. On the second gen the rectifier is rated for 30 amps. But the stator produces 30 amps at 5,000 rpm.

 

My understanding was similar to your comments above however with the higher output stator I assume that you will get the 30 amps at an engine rpm lower than the 5000 rpm. If this is correct then this is where the benefit would come from as most people do not drive around at 5000 rpms.

 

Brad

[jlh3rd]

the second gen rectifier is rated the same as the first gen.....from what i've learned on this site, the rectifier is not limited to allowing only 30 amps...it's limited to shunting 30 amps to ground.....if the bike is asking for 25 amps, and the stator can provide 55 amps...then 30 amps gets routed to ground......so increasing stator capacity is beneficial.....even though the rec. is rated at 30 amps...

 

what i wanna know is...is there an aftermarket reg./rec. for the second gen because i'm tired of watching my voltage drop as i add my electric clothing.....and i have the buckeye stator.......