j4brug Posted February 7, 2009 #1 Posted February 7, 2009 Engine just quit. Was running fine and then just died. Pushed it for a bit and tried to start it again, it finally started. Runs OK for now, but looking for any thing to check before it does it again. Thanks
Freebird Posted February 7, 2009 #2 Posted February 7, 2009 A bit soon I think for a 2007 model but assuming that you REALLY didn't accidentally hit the kill switch or something like that, I would sure suspect the ignition switch. Another slight possibility is that the tank is not venting properly and got vapor locked. If it happens again, or possibly even check it now, open the gas cap and see if there is a suction on it.
Squeeze Posted February 7, 2009 #3 Posted February 7, 2009 A bit soon I think for a 2007 model but assuming that you REALLY didn't accidentally hit the kill switch or something like that, I would sure suspect the ignition switch. Another slight possibility is that the tank is not venting properly and got vapor locked. If it happens again, or possibly even check it now, open the gas cap and see if there is a suction on it. I totally agree
GeorgeS Posted February 7, 2009 #4 Posted February 7, 2009 Try giveing the Ignition Switch, a Bath, with spray can of Electrical contact Cleaner. Or WD-40, blow out with compressed air, then use the CRC 2-26 contact cleaner, ( get at electrical department at Lowes, or Home Depot ) or the product that you can get at Radio Shack. Also, check the " 15 Amp " " Ignition Fuse " make sure not blown. Also, with key ON, check for 12V DC , on the Input side of the Main Fuse Block.
Brake Pad Posted February 7, 2009 #5 Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) Here is the Low down on the 2007 Models It just happened to me. and the MFG knew about it. The Fuel Pump gets hot, and stops working. wait 20 minutes and it will start again. It happened three times to me, before I had it fixed. NO :mo money:out of your pocket Edited February 7, 2009 by Brake Pad
99silver Posted February 7, 2009 #6 Posted February 7, 2009 George, I've had these things apart, the lock tumbler and the contacts are two separate sealed units. you could send an army into that keyhole and it would not affect the contacts. OK no offense to our army, they could evaporate the whole machine in a twinkle of an eye, but you know what I mean. It would only lube the lock. FYI Gary
GeorgeS Posted February 8, 2009 #7 Posted February 8, 2009 OK on that. So he needs to replace the Switch, or install the ByPass Wireing Mod.
BuddyRich Posted February 8, 2009 #8 Posted February 8, 2009 Under warranty so have the dealer fix it.
ediddy Posted February 8, 2009 #9 Posted February 8, 2009 Happend more than once to my 05. The fuel pump was bad. Replaced under warranty.
davecb Posted February 9, 2009 #10 Posted February 9, 2009 Engine just quit. Was running fine and then just died. Pushed it for a bit and tried to start it again, it finally started. Runs OK for now, but looking for any thing to check before it does it again. Thanks Ya don't push these things for a bit...How bigga boy are ya???
Silver Bullet Posted February 9, 2009 #11 Posted February 9, 2009 what will the factory replace it with? the very same kind. my bike died going down the road at about 45mph. first thing I though was I hit the kill switch, but no I did'nt. I let out on the clutch as I was slowing down , and the thing fired right up.. never happened before,, hasent happened sence.. whats up with that??
V7Goose Posted February 9, 2009 #12 Posted February 9, 2009 Engine just quit. Was running fine and then just died. Pushed it for a bit and tried to start it again, it finally started. Runs OK for now, but looking for any thing to check before it does it again. Thanks As others have already noted, the most likely cause of your problem is fuel - three distinct possibilities: Stuck rollover valve in the tank vent line. Unlikely, but I have heard of it happening on the RSV. Pinched vent hose - not too hard to do if the tank has been removed. Intermittent fuel pump (also clogged fuel filter). If the problem is actually fuel related instead of ignition, you should have noticed some stumbling and loss of power shortly before it died. This is identical to what you will feel if you just turn off the gas while you are riding; you will get several miles on the fuel in the float bowls before one or two cylinders begin to starve. If the problem is in the ignition circuit (bad ignition module, ignition switch or wiring), the engine would have died instantly instead of starving first. This is exactly what you will feel if you just hit the kill switch while riding. Those two tests should let you easily focus on either the fuel or ignition, then you can run some additional tests to zero in on the exact problem. Goose
N3FOL Posted February 9, 2009 #13 Posted February 9, 2009 what will the factory replace it with? the very same kind. my bike died going down the road at about 45mph. first thing I though was I hit the kill switch, but no I did'nt. I let out on the clutch as I was slowing down , and the thing fired right up.. never happened before,, hasent happened sence.. whats up with that?? Sure does sound very strange. Perhaps routinely check your idle speed at recommended intervals. Thanks for sharing.
Venturing Sole Posted February 9, 2009 #14 Posted February 9, 2009 is the kickstand switch. May not be prevalent on the RSV, but my last bike (Suzuki 1500 Intruder) would mysteriously crank, but not start. Could not predict when it would happen. After a great deal of scratching my head, repeatedly flipping switches and turning keys and push starting...it seemed like I happened upon the trick of kicking the stand up and down a few times to get the cut off switch to function properly. My $.02 anyway.
RedRider Posted February 10, 2009 #15 Posted February 10, 2009 is the kickstand switch. May not be prevalent on the RSV, but my last bike (Suzuki 1500 Intruder) would mysteriously crank, but not start. Could not predict when it would happen. After a great deal of scratching my head, repeatedly flipping switches and turning keys and push starting...it seemed like I happened upon the trick of kicking the stand up and down a few times to get the cut off switch to function properly. My $.02 anyway. Good thought. Bypassed the sidestand switch on my KLR for just this reason. However, I believe on the RSV, the bike will not even crank if the sidestand switch is made. RR
V7Goose Posted February 10, 2009 #16 Posted February 10, 2009 Good thought. Bypassed the sidestand switch on my KLR for just this reason. However, I believe on the RSV, the bike will not even crank if the sidestand switch is made. RR Wrong. The RSV starts and runs fine on the side stand. The switch only comes into play when the bike is in gear. But if any of the various interlock switches are defective in some way, or if a wire is shorted out, it certainly can interrupt the ignition circuit; that is why I pointed out the two test that anyone can perform to quickly see the difference between how the bike feels if it is starving for fuel or if the ignition is cutting out. Goose
RedRider Posted February 10, 2009 #17 Posted February 10, 2009 Wrong. The RSV starts and runs fine on the side stand. The switch only comes into play when the bike is in gear. But if any of the various interlock switches are defective in some way, or if a wire is shorted out, it certainly can interrupt the ignition circuit; that is why I pointed out the two test that anyone can perform to quickly see the difference between how the bike feels if it is starving for fuel or if the ignition is cutting out. Goose Goose, You are, of course, correct. The side stand switch kills it when in gear. I don't know what I was thinking. I need to be thinking about work and quit thinking about riding. The two are apparently incompatible. RR
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