'84 Front Wheel Bearings

[Schlepporello]

Hi guys, returning rider needing help again. Please bear with me, I'm only 30 years out of practice when it comes to motorcycle repair, I want to make sure I've got it right. I've pulled my front wheel off to get the rotors turned. I'm sure that greasing the bearings is the proper thing to do as long as I've got the front wheel off. I'm assuming plain ol' grease is good enough. But if my bearings are bad, will I be able to notice this visually easily or do I need to clean them off with gas first and visually inspect them? Any other things I need to look for as long as I've got the front wheel off?

 

Thanks!

[MiCarl]

Feel them. You can either turn them with a finger or set the axle between a couple of supports with the wheel on and turn it.

 

Any hint of roughness and they're gone.

[GeorgeS]

how many miles on this bike??

 

If over 50K, most likley they need to be replaced.

[Schlepporello]

how many miles on this bike??

 

If over 50K, most likley they need to be replaced.

Over 70,000.

Are these gonna be hard to find?

[Dano]

I'd recommend the sealed Yamaha bearings from www.flatoutmotorcycles.com , best you can get.

 

BTW, welcome back, been a long time since we've seen ya! Hope everything is going OK with you and yours.

 

Dan

[Schlepporello]

I'd recommend the sealed Yamaha bearings from www.flatoutmotorcycles.com , best you can get.

OK, now comes the stupid question. Will I still need to grease these?

BTW, welcome back, been a long time since we've seen ya! Hope everything is going OK with you and yours.

 

Dan

Thanks! We're fine, other than both of us having caught sinus infections which seem to be running rampant here lately. December was VERY busy with having to play in four Christmas concerts. I spent most of January just trying to catch my breath.

[Dano]

SEALED Yamaha bearings

Dan

 

 

I don't think so

[skydoc_17]

Hey Wayne,

Great to see ya' back! The front wheel bearings are a standard Shielded bearing #6303 Alot of guys "pop" one side shield off and grease the bearing again. Here is a thread that explains the process.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31516

 

I have run them both with both shields on and with one off with no ill effects. If you go to a Bearing House the #6303's are a lot cheaper, but I have used the Yamaha bearings with good luck as well, just more money. It's basically what makes you feel "warm and fuzzy" as far as the bearings go. I have never had one of the non Yamaha front wheel bearings fail, if thats any comfort. I have 72,500 miles on my 87'VR and 95,500 miles on the 86'VR and both have the non Yamaha wheel bearings in the front wheels.

Hope this helps,

Earl

[Schlepporello]

That helps a lot! Thanks!

I'm assuming this wheel bearing in your '87 is the same as is in my '84?

And since I'd be buying new sealed bearings, do I really need to pop 'em open and put more grease in?

[Squeeze]

... do I really need to pop 'em open and put more grease in?

 

Nope, those sealed Bearings have Lifetime Lubrication in them. No need to maintain them any further.

 

When you press them back into the Rim, make sure the Spacer is in Place before inserting the second Bearing and don't press them too deep into the Rim. The Spacer should sit snugly between both inner Races, nothing more. If you push them too deep, you will damage the new Bearings.

[Schlepporello]

OK, now for the next question. I found one source for these bearings here in town that was open on a Saturday. The price they quoted me for this bearing was $34 each.

I've been finding them on-line at prices ranging from $1.50 to $40 each. And all being produced by different manufacturers. Will it really make that big of a difference on the manufacturer of the bearing?

[Squeeze]

Get a good Industrial Brand like Timken, SKF, INA, Koyo and you'll be fine.

 

Watch out for the Digits after the Bearing Number... i.e. a ZZ is both sides sealed, a C3 is elevated Bearing Lask, which would be nice to have.

 

Can't say anything about the Price, but 34 Bucks each is definately too much.

[Schlepporello]

Yes, I've already discovered the -2RS and the -ZZ after the 6303. I've not seen a bearing with a -C3 yet and I have no idea what an elevated bearing lask is. Currently, I'm leaning towards the -2RS.

[Squeeze]

C3 means a bit more radial Bearing Slack. Sorry, i had a Typo and a Brain Fart combined.

 

C3 Bearings are Sort of rare Breed. It wouldn't harm anything when you can't have them. But if the Vendor carries them, i'd take these. 6303 2RS.C3

[Schlepporello]

C3 means a bit more radial Bearing Slack. Sorry, i had a Typo and a Brain Fart combined.

 

C3 Bearings are Sort of rare Breed. It wouldn't harm anything when you can't have them. But if the Vendor carries them, i'd take these. 6303 2RS.C3

Rare breed indeed. I just did a short Google search and all the ones i found were in Europe.

[rez]

I just bought these bearings at a local supplier we use. Nachi brand...which are not cheap offshore...at $4.00 each. They are number 6303 ZZ.

[Schlepporello]

OK, now another question. In removing the speedo drive side bearing I bent the flange spacer a bit. I believe I can straighten it out just fine, but I'm wondering just how important this insignificant looking piece of sheet metal really is. And if it's even possible to get a new one.