twigg Posted July 3, 2011 #26 Posted July 3, 2011 The good news is you know where the fuse is at, the bad news is something made it blow, and only the fan & thermostat is on this circuit, so you probably still have an issue. The 'pulsing' could have been due to the low coolant level. The water pump may be at the point of just getting enough water to be effective, as soon as it pumps some water, then it runs out again till that water cycles back through radiator. This would happen rapidly, but could cause the pulsing. Gary Sounds like he is making good progress. I have to say ... I had more trouble with the cooling system on my bike, than with any other system at all. When I got it it leaked from EVERYWHERE, and wasn't cooling much either. With the exception of the hoses and the waterpump impeller and seal, it has all been removed, cleaned and replaced. Including the cylinder plugs. Finally, fingers crossed, it is cooling as intended. Solving the "boiling over" problem was the most difficult bit. In the end, it was a $6 part. Go figure.
camos Posted July 4, 2011 #27 Posted July 4, 2011 The good news is you know where the fuse is at, the bad news is something made it blow, and only the fan & thermostat is on this circuit, so you probably still have an issue. Boy did you hit the nail on the head. The fuse blew again so still no fan and it boiled over again but this time with coolant in the system. Tomorrow I will pull the sensor switch see if I can find anything wrong with it. The countdown to Cody is on and time is tight so depending on the result of testing the sensor I will be hooking up a fused manual switch directly from the battery. The 'pulsing' could have been due to the low coolant level. The water pump may be at the point of just getting enough water to be effective, as soon as it pumps some water, then it runs out again till that water cycles back through radiator. This would happen rapidly, but could cause the pulsing. That was my assessment as well. I'll keep an eye on it now that it is full.
camos Posted July 4, 2011 #28 Posted July 4, 2011 Sounds like he is making good progress. I thought so too but not so lucky this time. Sure hope it is not the fan that is faulty and blowing the fuse.
twigg Posted July 4, 2011 #29 Posted July 4, 2011 Boy did you hit the nail on the head. The fuse blew again so still no fan and it boiled over again but this time with coolant in the system. Tomorrow I will pull the sensor switch see if I can find anything wrong with it. The countdown to Cody is on and time is tight so depending on the result of testing the sensor I will be hooking up a fused manual switch directly from the battery. That was my assessment as well. I'll keep an eye on it now that it is full. Two things would cause the fuse to blow again. Either there is a short in the fan circuit, or the fan motor is stalled and drawing too much power as it tries to run. I'd bet on the first reason, so you need to find the short before powering that circuit at all, or you will blow something else.
wes0778 Posted July 4, 2011 #30 Posted July 4, 2011 Just my , but the simplest answer to this question is to wire a single pole single throw toggle switch parallel to the temp sensor. That is just run a wire from on terminal on the temp sensor to one terminal on the toggle switch and another wire from the "other" terminal on the temp sensor to the "other" terminal on the toggle switch. This way when you flip the toggle switch to the on position, you simulate the temp sensor closing. Just an idea from the "KISS" method...
twigg Posted July 4, 2011 #31 Posted July 4, 2011 Just my , but the simplest answer to this question is to wire a single pole single throw toggle switch parallel to the temp sensor. That is just run a wire from on terminal on the temp sensor to one terminal on the toggle switch and another wire from the "other" terminal on the temp sensor to the "other" terminal on the toggle switch. This way when you flip the toggle switch to the on position, you simulate the temp sensor closing. Just an idea from the "KISS" method... lol ... yeah ... and the fuse will blow again Disconnect the fan wiring and jump it across the battery .... If it runs, good. Find the short, fix it, no switch needed. If it doesn't run then it is probably the faulty fan that is blowing the fuse. Replace it. No switch needed. All this "switchy" business is a red herring. The cooling system on a VR is perfectly able to keep the motor cool two up, at highway speeds and faster, and when running through town. A manual switch will not make it cool better and there are risks associated. ymmv
camos Posted July 4, 2011 #32 Posted July 4, 2011 I did say way back that the fan would run when connected directly to the battery however, there was no fuse in that circuit so the fan could still be causing the problem. Agreed twigg, under normal circumstances a switch should not be necessary. In this case, I have an unused switch with wires that go down to the area of the fan so hooking it to a fused circuit will be easy. This would tell me if the fan is the issue and would provide a temporary alternative if the fan is working properly.
dingy Posted July 4, 2011 #33 Posted July 4, 2011 The part numbers for the fan look to be the same from 83 to 90 (didn't check to 93). So you should be able to find a fan fairly easily. The 1st gen VMax's also have the same P/N's for the fan motor & blade. Gary
camos Posted July 5, 2011 #34 Posted July 5, 2011 The part numbers for the fan look to be the same from 83 to 90 (didn't check to 93). So you should be able to find a fan fairly easily. The 1st gen VMax's also have the same P/N's for the fan motor & blade. Gary Holy thunder Batman! Partshark lists the motor for $259.66. That's downright evil. Thanks Gary... I think... No, seriously thanks Gary.
dingy Posted July 5, 2011 #35 Posted July 5, 2011 I actually have a good spare fan, if you want it I will part with it. Make me an offer. I even tested it today. Shipping to Canada takes a while. Specially after they just got off a strike. You can figure out how you would want it shipped. I don't deliver that far. Zip code is 44905, Mansfield Ohio. Gary
camos Posted July 5, 2011 #36 Posted July 5, 2011 I actually have a good spare fan, if you want it I will part with it. Make me an offer. You can figure out how you would want it shipped. I don't deliver that far. Zip code is 44905, Mansfield Ohio. Gary I'll be in Cody WY in 20 days. I'd love to see your newly refurbished bike there. Thanks Gary, I'll PM you.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 5, 2011 #37 Posted July 5, 2011 Depending on how you added one, there is the risk of either never having to use it (good) or using it too much and the engine running too cold (much less good). just sayin' If the thermostat, (the one that controls the water flow thru the radiator) is in place and working, then running the fan continuously should not cause the engine to run 'too cold'....since the thermostat will close and restrict flow thru the radiator if the coolant starts cooling off. Just sayin....
twigg Posted July 5, 2011 #38 Posted July 5, 2011 If the thermostat, (the one that controls the water flow thru the radiator) is in place and working, then running the fan continuously should not cause the engine to run 'too cold'....since the thermostat will close and restrict flow thru the radiator if the coolant starts cooling off. Just sayin.... That's a fair point. So then it's simply redundant. It will draw on the stator but not much else. I can see manually controlling the fan as a temp. fix while other issues are investigated, but as a solution to anything? Not so much.
dingy Posted July 5, 2011 #39 Posted July 5, 2011 I'll be in Cody WY in 20 days. I'd love to see your newly refurbished bike there. Thanks Gary, I'll PM you. I'll send you a picture you can look at while you are there, about the best I can do !! Gary
MikesBike Posted July 5, 2011 #40 Posted July 5, 2011 That's a fair point. So then it's simply redundant. It will draw on the stator but not much else. I can see manually controlling the fan as a temp. fix while other issues are investigated, but as a solution to anything? Not so much. Maybe it's just a human nature thing... Wanting to take control over something that's critical and important in that it functions correctly and not completely trusting the system to work without a possibility of failure. Or it could be that we just like to have a fancy switch to flip...
camos Posted July 6, 2011 #41 Posted July 6, 2011 I'll send you a picture you can look at while you are there, about the best I can do !! Well you can only do what you can do. I'm sure once you are done you will be showing all of us some pix of your new Venture Rocket in action. I will just have to be content with twiddling my thumbs until then.
twigg Posted July 6, 2011 #42 Posted July 6, 2011 Maybe it's just a human nature thing... Wanting to take control over something that's critical and important in that it functions correctly and not completely trusting the system to work without a possibility of failure. Or it could be that we just like to have a fancy switch to flip... Heh ... maybe we need a switch then, to control the ignition timing
dingy Posted July 6, 2011 #43 Posted July 6, 2011 OK, for anybody that gives a rodents rectum, this is what speedy looked liked when I called it quits tonight. Over the 4th weekend I got the VMax rear wheel & brake setup in place. That was a lot of McGyvering. I don't think this type of mount has ever been done on a Venture, had to go where it is to clear saddle bags and frame. Front R1 brakes are in place. Exhaust, radiator, gas tank & rear sub frame got mounted today. Mr Percocet was involved in my doing all this. Back is painful but I am going to ride this sucker before my surgery, and pending divorce if I do accomplish this. It should have been done two months ago. Gary
camos Posted July 6, 2011 #45 Posted July 6, 2011 That could possibly be considered an understatement twigg. This bike will also be the newest old Venture in existence. Could even be faster than blue. Back on track... Tonight I installed a fused switch directly to the fan connector on the left side. I initially started with a 10 amp fuse same as the stock configuration. It blew so I put in a 15 amp one and it's working. Guess the fan is on it's way out. I was tempted to try subbing a 15 amp fuse in the stock fan circuit but decided there was no point in taking a chance on blowing a possibly expensive component.
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