Not bike related ( HELP )

[Kregerdoodle]

help, I have a 97 F250 7.2lt (460) FI

 

problem is, it will cut off while driving just like I turned the key off, most times it will fire right back off, some times I have had to let it set about 10 min, then it will start. It will turn over, I have power to everything, but not fire to either the plugs or the injectors, maybe both. I have checked all of the grounds that I can find, and all seem to be fine. I did have an alarm on it, that I removed. I removed the alarm while the truck was running, in case I cut the wrong wire. any Ideas on what to look for would be great. I can not replicate the problem, so that makes it twice as hard to figure out what is going on.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Kreg

[stardbog]

Once I Have similar problem, and was fuel filter. Acting randomly, and looks like is electrical problem. I'm not familiar with F250, but just my 2c.

 

Good Luck

[mother]

i agree with Dan, first change fuel filter.

 

next i would change the electric fuel pump relay.

 

cheers, Scott

[Kregerdoodle]

i agree with Dan, first change fuel filter.

 

next i would change the electric fuel pump relay.

 

cheers, Scott

 

 

Thanks, any clue where I would find the relay???

[mountainhorsega]

you say 7.2 but the diesels are 7.3 . If is is diesel - it is probably the camshaft position sensor. If it's gas - no clue

[Kregerdoodle]

it is gas ( 460 FI )

[Bob Myers]

does it have a chip in the 'puter? If so, take it out and clean the contacts, reinstall or better yet leave it out for a while. If no chip, look at the fuse box under the hood, pull each and every fuse looking for signs of corrosion. I am near sure the #9 Maxi fuse fuse feeds the EEC,the fuel pump relay and the coils, if it sees an erratic signal it fails, by default. #16 is the fuel rump fuse,relay is #2, EEC realy is #1

When it is doing its "roll over and play dead" if you crank it does the tach move? Does this one have a distributor or coil packs?

Edited January 24, 2009 by Bob Myers
My spelling is atrocious

[Condor]

There might be a record of the 'event' on the computer. Have a mechanic see if he can get a readout....

[DragonRider]

Does your check engine light come on before it dies..........could be something to do with emissions........if it is, the warranty will cover it as long as it isnt over 100,000 miles........dont ask me how I know, mine had 526,000 when my emissions failed and service writer said it was a tad out of warranty..........Uncle Sam makes them warrant them for 100,000 miles.

[ddoggma]

My van was cutting out in the rain, then one dry day it just wouldn't start. No spark. After I replaced the coil and wires, which didn't work. I replaced the Ignition Control Module "ICM" Its on the firewall, and had some goo coming out of it like it melted. Thats what it was for me. It actually had water in it, and when I turned left it would shut off more from the water I guess...lol. The goo that protects the circuit was melted from a overvolt I guess, and water got in there. Mine was only $25.00 for my old van so I tryed it. Electrical problems can get pricey if you don't know what to replace. The easy checks are Dist Cap, Ignition wire arching spark, Coil, and look for melted stuff on the firewall...lol Good Luck.

[TopV]

Had simular problem, ended up being computer related. Wish you luck

[relic]

Had this trouble with the Ford F350 cube van work truck. It would run and just quit even going down the road. Wait 5-10 minutes would start right up. I thought it was electrical with something heating up over time then cooling down. It was a wire burnt off the fuel pump in the tank. Mechanic says lucky didn't burn.I had this trouble for months before they fixed it. They tried everything else before they took the tank off and found the wire burnt off and arcing on the relay which is also in the tank

Edited January 24, 2009 by relic
add text

[Kregerdoodle]

does it have a chip in the 'puter? If so, take it out and clean the contacts, reinstall or better yet leave it out for a while. If no chip, look at the fuse box under the hood, pull each and every fuse looking for signs of corrosion. I am near sure the #9 Maxi fuse fuse feeds the EEC,the fuel pump relay and the coils, if it sees an erratic signal it fails, by default. #16 is the fuel rump fuse,relay is #2, EEC realy is #1

When it is doing its "roll over and play dead" if you crank it does the tach move? Does this one have a distributor or coil packs?

 

 

Thanks, I will check all of these out. The truck doesn`t have a tach. It has a Distributor.

[Reaney in NH]

I worked on Fords for YEARS... Intermit stall is almost always either an IGN Module ( IF it has a dist) If its DIS ign... then its usually a crank sensor.

 

If Memory serves me correctly... your truck is Has a Dist and has an Ign Moudule either mounted directly to the side of the Dist or one the firewall or fender well. Its the FIRST item I would replace after confirming a NO SPARK condition. After 15 Years of Servicing Fords in a dealership... 9 out of 10 was ign module.

 

On the New Style trucks with out a dist... (DIS) ign... then the uaual cuplrit is the crank sensor... sometimes located in the Timing cover... or near the frony pully on the engine.

 

Hope this helps

Reaney in NH

[Kregerdoodle]

I worked on Fords for YEARS... Intermit stall is almost always either an IGN Module ( IF it has a dist) If its DIS ign... then its usually a crank sensor.

 

If Memory serves me correctly... your truck is Has a Dist and has an Ign Moudule either mounted directly to the side of the Dist or one the firewall or fender well. Its the FIRST item I would replace after confirming a NO SPARK condition. After 15 Years of Servicing Fords in a dealership... 9 out of 10 was ign module.

 

On the New Style trucks with out a dist... (DIS) ign... then the uaual cuplrit is the crank sensor... sometimes located in the Timing cover... or near the frony pully on the engine.

 

Hope this helps

Reaney in NH

 

 

Thanks alot !! This is driving me crazy, I will check that out.

 

Kreg

[BEER30]

I own an '86 F-250, computer do-dad box on the firewall was the problem . I be be-bopin down the road , all systems shut down . About 10 minutes later , full systems restore and I was back to be-bopin . Finally replaced that booger and never had another issue .

 

BEER30

[Kregerdoodle]

I own an '86 F-250, computer do-dad box on the firewall was the problem . I be be-bopin down the road , all systems shut down . About 10 minutes later , full systems restore and I was back to be-bopin . Finally replaced that booger and never had another issue .

 

BEER30

 

 

Thats what mine is doing, I don`t see anything on the fire wall, but I do have a black box behind the glove box, would that be it?? I tried looking up Do-Dad box and came up empty:confused24: I removed all the fuses in the big box under the hood and cleaned the blades today, just spent around 20min on the side of the road, so that wasn`t it.....

 

 

Kreg

[Reaney in NH]

Thats what mine is doing, I don`t see anything on the fire wall, but I do have a black box behind the glove box, would that be it?? I tried looking up Do-Dad box and came up empty:confused24: I removed all the fuses in the big box under the hood and cleaned the blades today, just spent around 20min on the side of the road, so that wasn`t it.....

 

 

Kreg

 

Beer30's truck is an 86... his would have a silver box about 6in square mounted on the fire wall or fender well.... YOURS is much newer... your Ign module is much smaller... about the size of a Cig lighter. . Not Sure how to post a pic... but here is a link.. http://www.autozone.com/R,2066864/vehicleId,2359504/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,3218/partType,00029/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

 

Its a very simple to replace... Simpley unplug it... then using either 5.5mm socket or a small torx bit to remove. once screws are removed.. then unplug the module. Coaut the sivler surface with the Dialectric grease that it comes with and reinstall. I am 95% sure it will cure your problem... Its very common for these to cause an intermit stall. BTW... I belive you will find this located on the driverside Fender well.

Edited January 25, 2009 by Reaney in NH

[Kregerdoodle]

Beer30's truck is an 86... his would have a silver box about 6in square mounted on the fire wall or fender well.... YOURS is much newer... your Ign module is much smaller... about the size of a Cig lighter. . Not Sure how to post a pic... but here is a link.. http://www.autozone.com/R,2066864/vehicleId,2359504/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,3218/partType,00029/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

 

Its a very simple to replace... Simpley unplug it... then using either 5.5mm socket or a small torx bit to remove. once screws are removed.. then unplug the module. Coaut the sivler surface with the Dialectric grease that it comes with and reinstall. I am 95% sure it will cure your problem... Its very common for these to cause an intermit stall. BTW... I belive you will find this located on the driverside Fender well.

 

 

Thanks alot !! I will get one today and give that try.

 

Kreg

[Ivan]

This thread is funny.

 

No spark or injector pulses, so change the fuel filter. I got a laugh from that.

 

I also worked on Fords (and chevys and dodges) for several years, and I agree that no spark or injector pulse is most likely an ignition module, or crank sensor. On just about any modern SFI vehicle, the crank sensor feeds a signal to both the ignition and injectors (sometimes through other modules and such) for timing.

 

Now here's the best advice I can give some one in your position. There are guys that fix things like this for a living. Ask around in your area at the parts stores and such to get word of mouth on who is the best for the price. Take the truck to them and tell them the symptoms. You only need to tell them it dies intermittently, and answer their questions. Then let them figure it out and fix it. I have seen several people that throw $1000 worth of parts at a car, then bring it in and find out that an $80 diag and a $15 map sensor was all it needed.

 

For some reason, everyone thinks that techs are a rip off, and prey on the ignorant. Yet they have more technical knowledge than a MD, a better guarantee than a general contractor, and (if they want to make a living) a hell of a lot more honest than any high paid lawyer. Funny thing is that people will pay $5000 to get an MRI with no results, $15,000 for a set of prints on a new house, that will probably be revised several times, and $30,000 on a lawyer that will charge you for winning or loosing. They are all ok with that, but paying a guy who never sees his hands without grease in the cracks $150 is just terrible.

 

Ok, rant off

[Reaney in NH]

Thank you IVAN.... You are SO right. Its one of the reasons I got out of the business. The general lack of respect and the general ignorance of the driving public just got OLD.

 

I still enjoy helping others tho... and like to pass along the knowledge I have gained over the years. Its how most of us learn new things.

[Kregerdoodle]

Beer30's truck is an 86... his would have a silver box about 6in square mounted on the fire wall or fender well.... YOURS is much newer... your Ign module is much smaller... about the size of a Cig lighter. . Not Sure how to post a pic... but here is a link.. http://www.autozone.com/R,2066864/vehicleId,2359504/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,3218/partType,00029/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

 

Its a very simple to replace... Simpley unplug it... then using either 5.5mm socket or a small torx bit to remove. once screws are removed.. then unplug the module. Coaut the sivler surface with the Dialectric grease that it comes with and reinstall. I am 95% sure it will cure your problem... Its very common for these to cause an intermit stall. BTW... I belive you will find this located on the driverside Fender well.

 

Are you refering to the bottom of the unit itself? then screw it back to the finned block?

[Reaney in NH]

Are you refering to the bottom of the unit itself? then screw it back to the finned block?

 

 

Yes... Coat the shiny metal surface where it meets the heat sink( the finned part) then Plug in and then install the screws. Then plug the wires in... Do all that and you are done.

IF this does not take care of it... then take it to a good Tech... its more then something easy.

Let us know how it comes out.

Reaney in NH

[Kregerdoodle]

Yes... Coat the shiny metal surface where it meets the heat sink( the finned part) then Plug in and then install the screws. Then plug the wires in... Do all that and you are done.

IF this does not take care of it... then take it to a good Tech... its more then something easy.

Let us know how it comes out.

Reaney in NH

 

 

OK, I replaced it but just cleaned it up with a brush, I will stop and get some dielectric as the new part didn`t come with any, That may be why it died on me again, it has a bad ground at that location. Thanks for the help!

 

 

Kreg

[Kregerdoodle]

Reaney, sorry it took so long to get back to this post, I lost it, ( in more ways then one)

 

I changed the IGN Mod, still had the problem, just for grins, I pulled the Dist. cap, my god can`t beleave it even ran, ended up changing the entire Dist. runs like a Top now.. Thanks so much for your help!!

 

Ride Safe!!

 

Kreg

 

 

 

I worked on Fords for YEARS... Intermit stall is almost always either an IGN Module ( IF it has a dist) If its DIS ign... then its usually a crank sensor.

 

If Memory serves me correctly... your truck is Has a Dist and has an Ign Moudule either mounted directly to the side of the Dist or one the firewall or fender well. Its the FIRST item I would replace after confirming a NO SPARK condition. After 15 Years of Servicing Fords in a dealership... 9 out of 10 was ign module.

 

On the New Style trucks with out a dist... (DIS) ign... then the uaual cuplrit is the crank sensor... sometimes located in the Timing cover... or near the frony pully on the engine.

 

Hope this helps

Reaney in NH