Motorcycle oil

[Reed]

I was reading the thread on oils. It sounds like most of you use mobil 1. Is that auto oil or do they make Mobil 1 for cycles to? & what kind of filters do you use? auto or cycle. I am new at this & just learning about the doos & dont's on hear. I road a HONDA 900 custom for 22 years with no problums. Just gas oil & tires. used nothing but honda oil in it with no problums. auto oil & filters would be a lot cheeper!!!!! I just got a new 08 venture. "not home yet" I hope it will be a good up grade? The Honda is for sale.

[flb_78]

With your bike being new and still under warranty, I would use motorcycle oil and a Yamaha filter.

 

In my 99, I run 15W40 Rotella T diesel oil and a Purolater PureOne PL14610 automotive filter. My bike is far outside of warranty as well.

[ibents]

I was reading the thread on oils. It sounds like most of you use mobil 1. Is that auto oil or do they make Mobil 1 for cycles to? & what kind of filters do you use? auto or cycle. I am new at this & just learning about the doos & dont's on hear. I road a HONDA 900 custom for 22 years with no problums. Just gas oil & tires. used nothing but honda oil in it with no problums. auto oil & filters would be a lot cheeper!!!!! I just got a new 08 venture. "not home yet" I hope it will be a good up grade? The Honda is for sale.

Some use Mobil and some use Amsoil, I use the Amsoil and it works good for me. I'm sure that you know that you cannot use a motor oil...car... in a RSV.!! And yes they make Mobil 1 for bikes.

 

Ian

[Two Tone White]

Hold on a second... there's oil in these bikes???? Why didn't somebody say something sooner?

[1joeranger]

I'm a little confused too! Just bought Mobil 1 down at Walle-world (10W40) and a Purolater PureOne PL14610 filter from Advanced Auto. This was after reading all the threads I could find on oil changes! Still don't know if I got the right oil? Is WM Mobil 1 the oil recommended by those who are recommending Mobil 1?

[Long Tall]

Got this from the RSV/RSTD Delphi forums site....Their home page has a lot of info..

 

Oil Filters:

Brand Part Number Home Page Baldwin B1400

www.baldwinfilter.com Fram PH6017A www.fram.com Napa Gold #1358 www.napaonline.com Perf-form PFJ503 www.perf-form.com K & N 303 (303C) http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm WIX 51358 www.wixfilters.com Yamaha 3FV-13440-00-00

 

• Mobil M1-108

  
  

• Bosch 3300 (About 64mm, doesn't quite fit oil filter wrenches)

  
  

• WalMart SuperTech ST6607 or ST7317 (Made by Champion)

  
  

• AC Delco PF1237

  
  

• STP S-02876

  
  

I have used the Mobil M1-108 Filter and Mobil1 20-50 Synth. oil for both of my Ironhorses...2002 Bonneville America (vertical twin) and the 2006 RSV (of course v-4)..

 

George In Virginia

[hig4s]

Some use Mobil and some use Amsoil, I use the Amsoil and it works good for me. I'm sure that you know that you cannot use a motor oil...car... in a RSV.!! And yes they make Mobil 1 for bikes.

 

Ian

 

 

I used Mobil 1 car oil in all my bikes for many years no problem.. BUT!!!!! you have to check the API circle on the back of the container and make sure it does NOT say "Energy Conserving" (which most do) as it is the additives in energy conserving auto oils that can cause problems with motorcycle wet clutches.

 

here is some info

 

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

[Midrsv]

I use the Mobil 1 racing 4T, 10W40 oil. I've been using it for the last 3 years with no problems.

 

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil1_Racing_4T_10W-40.aspx

 

Dennis

[Snarley Bill]

i use mobil1 10w-30 automotive energy conserving in all my bikes,lawn mower ,and aircomperssor. used it for years no problems. recently switched to the extended service 10w-30 mobil1. i get it in 5 qt. containers at wally world. never had a clutch problem and i don't think there is a better oil made. bill

[V7Goose]

Old Mobil1 car oil with a red cap was great for bikes, but they reformulated it some years back. Now I think all the Mobil1 with gray caps is "energy conserving" - an absolute no-no for a wet clutch.

 

I personally prefer the Shell Rotella oil and the Pure One filter. Check out this thread for more info - particularly my post at the end for JASO-MA specs:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10499&highlight=shell&page=2

Goose

[1joeranger]

Thanks guys! Makes me feel so much better about my oil change! And I absolutely love this website! (I did verify the Mobil 1 oil was non conserving.)

[sarges46]

I believe the best tip I've received from here is this...most all oil brands will do the job....the secret is changing it often....every 3000 miles or so.

 

 

The oil thread can get lengthy....lol.

[BoomerCPO]

I have been using the Mobil 1 racing 4T, 10W40 Synthetic in my Venture for quite some time. It is a bit pricey tho! Because it is Synthetic I go 5K between oil/filter changes.

 

Here is a Site where you can order the oil from....Shipping is free and they are very fast on shipping to you also!

 

Link: http://www.eliteetc.com/index.html

[BigBoyinMS]

You can add a couple of more filters to your list. Nissan auto oil filter 15208-65F0C (short) or 15208-9E000 (long). I've had them apart so I know they are well made and they have the correct pressure setting. I've had one on my Road Star since I've owned it. I like the Purolator "Pure-One" PL14610 also and have one of those on the RSV.

[5bikes]

I've got a 102,000 mile 91 Suzuki GSX 1100 G that I've used only the cheapest oil and filters I can buy (with correct viscosity). Does not leak or burn any oil between 3500 mile changes. Done this to several prior cars and bikes.

I guess for all those that don't change their oil often enough (and that's the majority of motorcycles) ya use the expensive stuff.

There was a study of NYC taxi cabs years ago. Cheap oil even at 8k miles the oil was still good, in heavy city traffic!

[BigBoyinMS]

Yeah, these days there isn't any 'bad' oil but there are better oils.

But filters... For the price of a burger I'll spend a couple bucks more to get a decent filter. I've even heard of FRAM's being called a filter but it's a stretch to do so.

[vtwinr]

Castrol 4T Motorcycle Oil. Been using it happily for about 3 years now, and it even got rid of the famous "Honda tick" in my Sabre.

 

(1100cc Honda vtwins are known for hydraulic adjuster ticking)

 

I just don't get this though: At the two biker sites that I've known fairly well, the riders are ususally blown away by the ridiculous prices on bona fide motorcycle oil sold at the bike shops, and I don't blame them either. Well, I can't precisely remember just how much I pay for my 4 liter jug of Castrol 4 stroke dino motorcycle oil sold at Pep Boys Auto Parts, but it has always been very comparable to all of the other auto/truck oils that are sold right over on the next shelf. I'm happy.

[Jethroish]

Yeah, these days there isn't any 'bad' oil but there are better oils.

But filters... For the price of a burger I'll spend a couple bucks more to get a decent filter. I've even heard of FRAM's being called a filter but it's a stretch to do so.

 

 

there are less than a handful of oil blending factories. As an example, if you use the WallyWorld SuperTech brand, it is blended and bottled by QuakerState. No difference except cheaper and different bottle.

 

Filters are no different. There are those made by Dana Corp, Allied Signal and another.

Wix and Napa Gold filters are the same with different skins. Infact, Wix and Napa part numbers are nearly identical.

 

I admit that I use Mobil 1 M/C in my RSV, but in my pickups, I use what ever is on sale at the time and change every 3000 miles on the gas truck and 6000 miles on the diesel. I will, however, use Wix, Napa, or Baldwin filters. Personally, I stay away form those made by Allied Signal. Just my own choice.

 

Just my 2 bits.

[Snarley Bill]

there are less than a handful of oil blending factories. As an example, if you use the WallyWorld SuperTech brand, it is blended and bottled by QuakerState. No difference except cheaper and different bottle.

 

Filters are no different. There are those made by Dana Corp, Allied Signal and another.

Wix and Napa Gold filters are the same with different skins. Infact, Wix and Napa part numbers are nearly identical.

 

I admit that I use Mobil 1 M/C in my RSV, but in my pickups, I use what ever is on sale at the time and change every 3000 miles on the gas truck and 6000 miles on the diesel. I will, however, use Wix, Napa, or Baldwin filters. Personally, I stay away form those made by Allied Signal. Just my own choice.

 

Just my 2 bits.

i use the supertech 7317 filter in my wing, v-star and truck made by champion filters, almost the same as the mobil1 filter. i use supertech 5w-30 full synthetic in my truck, and mobil1 10w-30 extended performance in my wing, v-star, zx-14, and majesty scooter. never replaced a clutch or had one slip in my life. banged a few shifts today on my v-star, and wing just to make sure i was'nt missing something rock solid clutch engagement to 100 plus mph. i really like the make up and improved additive package in the new extended performance mobil1. it also has 50% more pao base stock than regular mobil1. the only thing that concerns me about the energy conserving mobil1 is the reduced amount of zddp. which helps to prevent metal to metal contact. it still has 800ppm which is only down by about 300 ppm. the moledinum disulfide more than makes up for it as it coats the metal parts with very smooth platelets. check it all out on www.bobtheoilguy.com bill

[V7Goose]

i use the supertech 7317 filter in my wing, v-star and truck made by champion filters, almost the same as the mobil1 filter. i use supertech 5w-30 full synthetic in my truck, and mobil1 10w-30 extended performance in my wing, v-star, zx-14, and majesty scooter. never replaced a clutch or had one slip in my life. banged a few shifts today on my v-star, and wing just to make sure i was'nt missing something rock solid clutch engagement to 100 plus mph. i really like the make up and improved additive package in the new extended performance mobil1. it also has 50% more pao base stock than regular mobil1. the only thing that concerns me about the energy conserving mobil1 is the reduced amount of zddp. which helps to prevent metal to metal contact. it still has 800ppm which is only down by about 300 ppm. the moledinum disulfide more than makes up for it as it coats the metal parts with very smooth platelets. check it all out on www.bobtheoilguy.com bill

:stickpoke:Hey Bill, you trailer your bike, so I guess any oil will work the same for ya - some of us actually RIDE them!

Goose

 

(But knowing how uncomfortable the Honda Refrigerators are, I guess I can understand the trailer.)

[timgray]

Some use Mobil and some use Amsoil, I use the Amsoil and it works good for me. I'm sure that you know that you cannot use a motor oil...car... in a RSV.!! And yes they make Mobil 1 for bikes.

 

Ian

 

You are correct. not CAR oil but Diesel Truck oil. I use mobil 1 for trucks that do not have the "energy saving" junk in it. 15W40.. works great even with a wet clutch.

 

Remember Mobil 1 is not a real synthetic. i believe Amsoil is one of the only real synthetics you can buy, if they do not list exactly what it is the bottle and it's chemical makeup, it's a good sign it's not a synthetic.

 

In 1999 the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the council of Better Business Bureau ruled in a debate of what is "synthetic". Mobil challenged Castrol's replacement of polyalphaolefins (PAO's) with hydroisomerized waxes in their synthetic formulations. The Bureau ruled in Castrols favor and allowed them to call this hydroisomerized processed petroleum oil a synthetic.Now every major oil company is doing the same thing.

 

The NAD ruled that synthetic was just a marketing term since there was no true definition of what synthetic is. Since then many oil companies have replaced their true Synthetics with this highly refined petroleum oil instead of the more expensive True Synthetic PAO's. These new highly refined petroleum oils are better in quality and performance than the cheaper refined oils, but only come close in some parameters to a True synthetic oil and are cheaper to manufacture.

 

 

SO your synthetic oil has a very high chance of not really being a synthetic.

 

I still use Mobil1 though. It's cheaper, makes my transmission quieter, and I dont feel bad changing it every 2000 miles. I also use only Wix filters. Simply because I get them for $4.00 each at rockauto.com and they come with the o rings. My Stealer charges me $14.95 for the filter, $10.00 for the 0 rings and claims I'll destroy my bike if I dont use his $8.95 a quart yamalube.

 

Simply look around for the real prices. I'm betting my yamaha dealer get's his filters from yamaha for about what I am paying for Wix.

Edited January 23, 2009 by timgray

[Freebird]

Mobil 1 is absolutely a true Synthetic. This is another statement that some Amsoil distributors have tried to spread. This has come up here before and I did the research and posted the proof here that Mobil 1 is indeed a true synthetic. Sorry, I don't have time to find it again now but will later if I need to. That is why Mobil challenged Castrol for claiming that THEIR'S was a true synthetic.

[Snarley Bill]

i sense another oil controvesy in the making. think i will sideline on this one. don i do know for a fact that mobil1 uses pao in there oil. i think thats what supersyn is in their advertising. just not sure if it is 100% or not. i have been trying to find out from them but they are vague on any direct info they put out. if you can find that info let me know. the reason why castrol won the lawsuit, is because the grade 111 base oil castrol was using was found to meet the same criteria as a true synthetic by the sae. i don't agree with the decision cuz it is'nt truly man made. of course one could say neither is a real synthetic. it is made up of natural chemicals. the big advantage in using pao's is temperature does'nt affect viscosity like dino base oil and they don't need to add polymers to maintain a viscosity index. i figure amsoil is probably good oil, but i have always had good luck with mobil1 and have had alot of engines apart after using it. the wear patterns looked perfect so i can't argue with success. not to mention it did'nt get to be the no.1 synthetic by being crappy oil. i know you and i don't agree on the energy conserving issue, which i understand . the three main reasons i use the energy conserving oils is 1) the convenience of the 5qt. container, 2) better gas mileage, 3)because of the moly content. it is one of the best anti wear additives there is available for oil. clutch slippage may be a problem for some but i have never had a problem with it. if i did, i would rather replace the clutch and save wear on the expensive internal engine parts. i think mobil1 has less than 200 ppm which is a very small amount. but it is enough to eliminate alot of wear. when you get down to it any premium oil of the right viscosity, using sensible oil & filter change intervals will take these bikes over 100,000 miles. it's all in what buys us piece of mind. just think of the crap we once put in our machines years ago and we thought it was the best . someday the oil we use now will be junk compared to the new tech of the future. bill

[Chinto]

Well just to be different here, I have been using Royal Purple for several years in both my V star and now the RSV. I use the Yamaha filter and Max Cycle 20w 50. I also use Royal Purple Synchromax in the rear gear box too. I agree that any brand name oil will do the job if changed often enough. I think I have emotionally connected to Royal Purple because of their website explanation as to why use Royal Purple.

 

 

http://www.royalpurple.com/why-use-rp.html

[raceman62race]

Just to throw this in about oils....

Several years ago Quaker State got a bad reputation. My Grandfather had a 1970 GMC truck with a 307 engine. He ran Quaker State oil in it and he was very persistant about changing it every 3000 miles. His opionion was that any motor oil would work as long as it was changed often. My Grandfather died many years ago and I ended up with his truck. I continued to drive the truck until it had 167,000 miles on it but I didn't change the oil as often as he did. After a couple of years, the body rusted and fell apart but the engine was still strong. I sold the engine to a friend and helped installed it in his truck. I don't know how many thousands of miles he drive his truck before selling it. During the engine swap, we replaced all of the gaskets because they were starting to leak and we were shocked as to how clean the engine was inside. This proved to me that regular maintenance (oil changes) played a huge roll in long lasting engines. Here I had an engine that had 167,000 miles put on it with an oil that had a terrible reputation but for the most part it was changed regularly.

I run the Yamahalube in my RSV and Yamaha filters but as long as it meets motorcycle oil specs, I don't think it really matters much as long as it is changed at the proper intervals.

I use to be a member of a forum for Suziki's and I know a lot of people use to run the blue jug Rotella in their bikes