Kregerdoodle Posted January 8, 2009 #1 Posted January 8, 2009 Did you have any signs that it was going bad, or was that the problem? I am just asking because my key gets hot, never had any problems with it, but I don`t really want to get out in the middle of nowhere and have it go to junk on me.. Kreg:confused07:
BoomerCPO Posted January 8, 2009 #2 Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) On the day my switch failed I had just gassed up the bike. I noticed that the key was hot but there was nothing I could do about that. When I re-inserted the key into the switch the failure happened and the key locked up in the switch and I was unable to even start the engine. Luckily I have a good Dealer nearby. The scoot was picked up within 30-45 minutes and on her way to the Shop. Dealer installed a new switch with no questions asked as the bike is still under Warranty. There is a procedure in the Tech Section for bypassing the ignition switch in an emergency with the use of a toggle switch. That toggle switch bypass is now in place on my Venture so hopefully I will never be stranded because of switch failure. Good luck with yours. ps: I think Yammi charges about $125 for a new switch assembly. Edited January 8, 2009 by BoomerCPO ps:additional info.
pegscraper Posted January 8, 2009 #3 Posted January 8, 2009 They can get a little finicky about position before they quit. Mine is in this stage. I wiggle the key before hitting the start button or sometimes it won't fire and start. It's a good idea to have some alternatives handy in case it does quit on you somewhere. Things like a spare switch and the tools with you to change it, or the toggle switch bypass mentioned above, or otherwise know how to hot wire the thing. It will quit on you somewhere sooner or later.
Skid Posted January 8, 2009 #4 Posted January 8, 2009 I suppose one could always buy an extra switch to carry with you..... or you could trade for a First Gen.....
Marcarl Posted January 8, 2009 #5 Posted January 8, 2009 If it's hot it got resistance in there somewhere,, and that will cause problems, like failure. If it were mine and I wasn't going to change it just yet, I would squirt it with lots of Deep Creep and then maybe not have any problems ever,, but then what do I know,,, first gens don't have that issue,,, they always start.
Skid Posted January 8, 2009 #7 Posted January 8, 2009 I almost feel bad for getting off subject when Kbay was trying to get a good answer to a problem before it happens. Honestly, I am interested in this thread too. Nothing worse than breaking down out on the road. Sorry for making a joke. Is there a thread about adding the hidden switch? I will have to remember that for later...... future "Second Genner"......
jburrell Posted January 8, 2009 #8 Posted January 8, 2009 Kabay, If you come by we can install the bypass in about 15 minutes. I have been using the toggle exclusively for about 2 months. You you check the thread as its easy to do but I would be glad to assist. Jim
BradT Posted January 8, 2009 #9 Posted January 8, 2009 Is there a thread about adding the hidden switch? I will have to remember that for later...... future "Second Genner"...... Called Emergency Repair in tech section. Mine just crapped out on me while getting gas 10 minutes after I left home. Another one getting ready to see the light. BRad
99silver Posted January 8, 2009 #10 Posted January 8, 2009 Put the whole lighting circuit on a relay so it doesn't go through the switch, no more hot key or switch failure. Worked for me ! The lighting circuit is the cause of failure. Gary
Kregerdoodle Posted January 8, 2009 Author #11 Posted January 8, 2009 Put the whole lighting circuit on a relay so it doesn't go through the switch, no more hot key or switch failure. Worked for me ! The lighting circuit is the cause of failure. Gary Thanks, I have the tech note on bypassing the key, I carry that and a chunk of wire on the bike allready, is there a write up on moving the lighting circuit to a relay?? Kreg
Riderduke Posted January 8, 2009 #12 Posted January 8, 2009 No Warning at all. Just got gas and was on the interstate cruze set at 83mph. (gps said 75) Lost cruze and then all power. coasted accross 2 lanes and got to the breakdown lane. i didn't even have time to try and reset the cruze control it all happened very fast.
Riderduke Posted January 8, 2009 #13 Posted January 8, 2009 Also never noticed that my was hot. It was 26* with out windchill that morning so it wouldn't have gotten hot.
kwisor Posted January 8, 2009 #14 Posted January 8, 2009 hello my switch went bad about 2 years ago i put in the bypass toggle switch and that is what i have now never replace the ing switch. i have had no more problems. when it went out no waining was on side of road for 3 hrs waiting on my son to get off work to come hep bumble bee kevin wisor 1999 rsv jax fl
Dragonslayer Posted January 8, 2009 #15 Posted January 8, 2009 Once upon a time I had a ignition switch failure. So I dissassembled the switch and cleaned the contacts, put it back together and reinstalled it and everything is still ok. I don't remember it as a very hard operation. It might save you some significant bucks. No telling what Yamaha wants for that switch. But then mine is a 1st gen, I don't have any experience with a second gen.
Sylvester Posted January 8, 2009 #16 Posted January 8, 2009 When mine went out in 04, I did the relay routine for the pass lights. I have never had another problem and there is no heat reflected from the ign. switch, ever.
OutKast Posted January 8, 2009 #17 Posted January 8, 2009 So, does it seem the switch gets overloaded lighting circuit from passing lights/ other added lights, maybe trailer lights, etc.????? Has anyone had a switch failure who did not have any additional lighting?
1rooster Posted January 8, 2009 #18 Posted January 8, 2009 Never had a switch issue.. I never had a 2nd gear issue with my 2nd gen.:rotfl::rotfl:
slick97spirit Posted January 9, 2009 #19 Posted January 9, 2009 I think my switch is starting to go bad as I have to wiggle the key to get it out of lock position. If I do the by-pass, do you still have to use the key? Have some of you left this on permanently or is it a temporary fix? Would the by-pass make it easier to steal? I'm thinking about doing this mod before the switch goes bad.
BradT Posted January 9, 2009 #20 Posted January 9, 2009 If I do the by-pass, do you still have to use the key? Have some of you left this on permanently or is it a temporary fix? Would the by-pass make it easier to steal? . Yes you still need the key. The bike will crank over but not start, without the key. Mine was temperaray untill I got a new switch. The bypass is half the job in hot wiring the bike so I guess you would say it is easier to steal but I would assume anyone stealing it would just roll it away before trying to hot wire it in a parking lot. BRad
mm482 Posted January 9, 2009 #21 Posted January 9, 2009 Ken, Your key and cylinder my just be dry, spray a little WD 40 into the key cylinder. It worked for me. Earl
CMIKE Posted January 9, 2009 #22 Posted January 9, 2009 I have yet to have a key switch go bad...but my goodness I can imagine that would really ruin your day especially if you were on a great trip 1000 miles away from home in some pu dunk town like l live in with closest dealer 50 miles away and the chances they would have key switch are about 1000/1. I was just wondering...what if as a preventive measure you went ahead and removed most of the load from the key switch and go ahead and install a 30amp relay to do the work. I was just looking at the wiring diagram and seem just about everything except radio/CB is fed through that one contact to the brown/blue wire. I do mean everything ignition, fuel pump, lights cruise control, and all lights. The main fuse is a 30 Amp so a relay capable of handling 30 amps should be sufficient. A short piece of #10 AWG wire to T into the red power wire feeding the switch soldered and taped up with some of that self fusing rubber tape for reliability. This would allow the Power to still go into the key switch to power the radio and the contact that did power just about anything would now control only the coil of the relay. Take a look at this modified wiring diagram ( the red is the added stuff) I took the wiring diagram from the back of the shop manual and modified it. Tell me what you guys think...would it be worth wild to go ahead and do this since it is a protential problem to spoil a great road trip. I had not planned to carry enough tools to repair this kinda of stuff at a gas station.
Eck Posted January 9, 2009 #23 Posted January 9, 2009 Here is a place where you can get a replacement key... http://www.motorcyclekeys.com/
Eck Posted January 9, 2009 #24 Posted January 9, 2009 You are on to the same train of thought I have.... I want to install some type of fix now...not wait till I break down... Your idea appears to be very well thought out, and as I sit here and review your drawing, I see no reason why it would not work. Hopefully others will jump in and review your drawing for any possible problems.. I want a fix of some type. I want to tear apart a stock ignition switch to see if I can come up with a simple mod for everyone, and your basically doing the same thing. Cool beans.!! we need more brains working this issue since Yamaha wont.. In my fix, I would rather have another "key type switch" in place of a simple toggle switch though...I do not mean another ignition switch, but a smaller type switch (that is hidden some place) that takes a key to turn it on and off.. I have yet to have a key switch go bad...but my goodness I can imagine that would really ruin your day especially if you were on a great trip 1000 miles away from home in some pu dunk town like l live in with closest dealer 50 miles away and the chances they would have key switch are about 1000/1. I was just wondering...what if as a preventive measure you went ahead and removed most of the load from the key switch and go ahead and install a 30amp relay to do the work. I was just looking at the wiring diagram and seem just about everything except radio/CB is fed through that one contact to the brown/blue wire. I do mean everything ignition, fuel pump, lights cruise control, and all lights. The main fuse is a 30 Amp so a relay capable of handling 30 amps should be sufficient. A short piece of #10 AWG wire to T into the red power wire feeding the switch soldered and taped up with some of that self fusing rubber tape for reliability. This would allow the Power to still go into the key switch to power the radio and the contact that did power just about anything would now control only the coil of the relay. Take a look at this modified wiring diagram ( the red is the added stuff) I took the wiring diagram from the back of the shop manual and modified it. Tell me what you guys think...would it be worth wild to go ahead and do this since it is a protential problem to spoil a great road trip. I had not planned to carry enough tools to repair this kinda of stuff at a gas station.
CMIKE Posted January 9, 2009 #25 Posted January 9, 2009 Just so I am not misunderstood... My idea is to still use the existing key switch, no toggle or other switch to deal with and have to mount or try to hide. Instead of the set of contacts in the key switch that is now carrying most of the electrical load...let the sealed relay take care of this load. The orginal contacts of the key switch only carries the load of the relay coil. :think:You know after I think about it some...that extra key switch is not a bad idea though. You could place it under the seat, under the trunk, on mount it in the inner fairing or some where and use it in the event of an emergency only. You would have to make sure it would handle the load. (at least 30 amps) I have had one instance where the ignition switch kinda acted crazy. I have not had the RSV very long (only since Sept 08 or so) and I had just washed it and I turned the key to ACC to listen to the radio while I dried her off. The radio would not work unless you turn the key to the ON postion. Kinda strange but I did not worry about it. The ACC is a totally different contact on the ignition swith. After a while...I guess it dried out...it started back working. I am installing passing lamps and the rest of my LED lights next week when I get back home... I will have the tank off plus the fairing split...I will look at it real close then. Hell I may install some wires so I can to get them easily and install the relay or additional switch later...maybe even jump it out if I get in a bind on the road if neccessary. I am still thinking about it...
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