Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Can anybody give me the Engine RPM in gears at speeds of the 06 07 and 08 models.

As on the newer models, 4th and 5th gears are overdrive.

 

I'm interested, in Rpm at say 55, 65, and 70 mph, running in 4th and 5th gear.

 

I understand that the ratios were changed in I believe 03 or 04, so those bikes would be turning lower RPM's on average at normal highway cruzing speeds.

 

My 89 is usually turning about 3800 rpm in 5th, at 65 mph. I'm wondering how this compares to an 07 or 08.

 

Why ?

 

Engine RPM effects the Amperage output of the Stator. I'm trying to figure out just what the reduction in STATOR output amperage, is on the new bikes verse the old bikes, due to the Lowered Gear Ratios. ??

 

Thanks, any info appreciated !

Posted

AFAIK, there has never been a change in the gear ratios of the 2nd gen bikes. All 99-09 should be identical.

 

I know that I have personally compared engine/road speeds between a 1st and 2nd gen Venture, and my 05 turns the same RPM in 4th that the 1st gen did in 5th. You are correct that the RSV 4th gear is technically an overdrive, but not by much! Easier to think of it as just a 1:1 direct drive with 5th gear being the real overdrive.

 

Going just from memory, in 5th gear at 3,500 RPM the RSV is doing about 76 MPH indicated and 70 MPH actual.

Goose

Posted

George, if you don't mind using a little bit german Language and metric Values, you can use Geardata to figure out aynthing you want.

 

If you have Questions about Translation or anything else, just ask. Download the Zip File and install it. I've included some Vmax Data, i've aquired through the Years(ged-Files).

 

Only Thing you need to remember when you type in the Reduction Data, our Engines have two "primary Reductions", first the classical between Crank and Clutch Basket, second the angled Gear on the Tranny Output.

Posted (edited)
You might also look at the chart given here. clicky clicky

 

Hmmm ?? can't read the numbers.

 

Yes, thats a lot more info then I am looking for.

 

All I'm really looking for, is the Average in RPM range, at Average Driveing speeds, on Average roads.

I guess that would be about 55 to 60 MPH in the U.S. Excluding runs on 70MPH Freeways.

For hours of in City driveing, that would be lowered to lets say 35 to 40 mph.

And the average STATOR output would be lowered also--

 

Why?? RPM, does effect the " Amperage Output " of the Alternator.

The Chart in 1st Gen manual, Specifications Section, shows the following Outputs.

30 Amps --- 4000 rpm

27.5 Amps-- 3500 rpm

25.0 Amps --2500 rpm

22.0 Amps --2000 rpm ( all with fudge factor for reading the chart )

 

So, due to the Higher Gearing of the 2nd Gens, I am trying to figure out if there is

a difference in " Average Amps output " for 2nd gens, over 1st gens, " AT Average Driveing Speeds" ( because 2nd gens run at lower RPM, due to gearing )

 

Why?? Most folks when talking about this subject, usually quote, the 30 Amp figure. But obviously Nobody, is Averaging an Engine RPM of 4000. So , nobody is getting the 30 Amps, unless running on a 70mph + Freeway at all times, nobody does that.

 

Off the top of my head, I will estimate its about 3000 to 3200, rpm for 5th gear, on the average road, most of the time. ( 2nd gen, in 5th gear )

So, that would give an average Alternator output of about 27.5 amps. ( from the 1st gen chart )

 

OK, I'm open for suggestions, and corrections.

 

Whats your Average , Cruzeing RPM on your 2nd gen bike, when NOT on a 70 MPH Freeway all day. ??? If 8 or 10 riders chime in here, I can Average the answers, and apply them to the Chart.

 

With this information, I can make a good estimate of How Much Extra Electrical DRAW can be Added to the system, and Still Charge the Battery.

 

I hope this makes sence -- Anyway, got nothing else to do today.

 

Last nite I did, --- " Current Draw " --- Tests on my 89 to determine Total Current Draw, as I will be adding " HOT Grips " this week, and want to know exactly whats happening with them working, plus a heated vest, plus 2, 35 Watt Driveing lights.

 

Basic readings indicate:--- Key On, Engine OFF, Radio and CB ON--

 

All Lights, OFF--Fuse's Removed --- 1.66 Amps

All OEM lights ON, Low Beam, ---- 8.50 Amps

Switch to High Beam--------------- 8.92 Amps

Low beam, Plus 2 each 35 W Driveing lts --- 15.01 Amps

Switch to Hi Beam, plus driveing lts-------- 15.33 Amps

 

Activate Brake lite Bulbs, 2 each------------18.91 Amps

 

---------------------------

Ok with Low Beam, and driveing lights, ON -Draw is 15.01 amps. ( 35W units 2 ea. )

Add, Hot Grips at Full Hot setting--- -------- 3.00 Amps. ( estimate )

Add, for Heated Vest, at Full Hot setting ----- 3.00 Amps ( estimate )

Add average Audio Amp Current Draw -------- 2.50 Amps. ( est. max 5A Manual )

-----------------

Total Draw 23.5 Amps

 

Point: IF I change my Driveing lights to 55 Watt Bulb Units, 2 each.

This would add an Estimated Draw of 3.7 Amps over the 6.09 for 35 W units

 

23.5 A , plus 3.7 A = 27.2 Amps---

So, Conclusioin, this would put me right at MAX Draw for an Engine RPM of about 3200 RPM.

 

--- THERE IS NOTHING LEFT FOR BATTERY CHARGING !!! ---- ( below 60 MPH )

 

Also, there will be some current consumed inside the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit,

as I did the testing with Engine OFF, that amount was not measured. I would assume its at least 1 Amp. Maby 2, as the Item does have HEAT Dissipation Fins on it, and they were put there for a reason. !! ( Any comments on that ?? )

 

So, make the total 28.2 Amps With 55 W Driveing lights, and 2 items of heated clothing, and the Radio Blareing from the Speakers.

--- NOT GOOD ---

 

CONCLUSION: If you need the Heated Clothing -- ON --- Turn the Driveing lights OFF

OR-- Use 35 W driveing lights, and run the Vest, Hot Grips, and Chaps, at 1/2 Setting, or Low setting.

 

And turn the Radio, and CB OFF. Turn Cruz Control OFF,

 

Add a Switch to ALL your EXTRA LIGHTING, to Turn OFF, if heated clothing is Used.

 

OK, I'm open to comments, and Corrections, and anything I missed, but I think most of my numbers are " In the Ball Park " as they say.

 

One more comment. IF the 2nd Gens Average a LOWER RPM, at average Speeds, then you have even LESS Current to Play with. As Alternator Output drops with Engine RPM.

 

OK, hit me with your best Shot !!! I'm all ears ---:buttkick:

Edited by GeorgeS
Posted

Don't forget about the current drawn by the carburetor heaters.

 

If it is cold enough to be using heated clothing and heated grips, it is most likely cold enough for the carburetor heaters to come on...

Posted
Don't forget about the current drawn by the carburetor heaters.

 

If it is cold enough to be using heated clothing and heated grips, it is most likely cold enough for the carburetor heaters to come on...

 

After the Engine Reaches full operating temperatures, the heaters should Turn Off. Or at least they are supposed to.

 

Would not be a factor for long rides, but for sombody who does a lot of just short trips, of say 15 miles, yes this would be another factor, to consider.

 

After considering all this, --- If ---- I were to buy a 2nd Gen. I would Immediatly Install the Aftermarket Stator, AND, an Odyessy Dry Cell Battery.( probably 2 of them ) 27 Amps for a bike this size , is absolutly insane. Its hard to believe Yamaha installed that weak of a charging system on this bike.

( Ahemmmm, I have been quietly looking around for one )

Posted (edited)

Are you sure they turn off due to engine temp? i thought they were controlled by ambient air temp.

 

I cannot find the location on the bike for the carburetor heater thermo switch, to see where the temperature is being taken....

 

Where is the switch located? I cant seem to find it in the service manual or the parts manual....

 

Just as a warning, carburetor icing can happen in air temps much higher than 32F or 0C degrees due to the venturi effect.

 

 

What size alternator does the current Honda Gold Wing have?

Edited by KiteSquid
Posted
After the Engine Reaches full operating temperatures, the heaters should Turn Off. Or at least they are supposed to.

 

Would not be a factor for long rides, but for sombody who does a lot of just short trips, of say 15 miles, yes this would be another factor, to consider.

I doubt this is true - the carb heaters are activated by a thermal switch under the battery cover on the right side. I really don't know if it would get warm enough in there to shut off the carb heaters unless the ambient temps were close to the cutoff temp already.

 

Just didn't want someone to automatically assume they would shut off when riding in temps that stayed below 50 - better personally test it rather than assume!

Goose

Posted
i guess that putting in an aftermarket stator will void warranties..........unless the dealer doesn't find it......

 

Very good point !!!

 

Also, as to the Carb heater's, just install a switch to turn them off, if running with heated clothing.

Or, just pull the fuse, and forget about them. Thats what I would do .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...