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Posted

You know that you can ajust the stock bars up/down & in/out, there are a few opptions there.........:canada::canada::canada:

Posted
Any tips on replacing bars to a more comfortable style? What works - what don't

 

Bull

 

I dont really like the way the handlebars on my 85 look, but I sure liked them a lot better once I found out that I could adjust them in about 6 different directions and heights. Mine are very comfortable now, i never get the pain across the shoulders thing happening.

So I guess my advice is replace them if you dont like the look, but if youre looking for more comfort, save your money, and get out the toolkit.

 

Brian

Posted
I adjusted mine up & down but not sure what u mean by in and out

JB

 

 

Under the cover in between the bars are 2 nuts that hold the bars onto the triple tree assy. Take the large top nuts off and loosen the 2 12mm bolts and the bars will slide up off the mounts and can be spaced inward or outwards. The actual handle bars that retain the trottle and electronics can be loosened to bring them up and down, they are very adjustable.

Posted
I dont really like the way the handlebars on my 85 look, but I sure liked them a lot better once I found out that I could adjust them in about 6 different directions and heights. Mine are very comfortable now, i never get the pain across the shoulders thing happening.

So I guess my advice is replace them if you dont like the look, but if youre looking for more comfort, save your money, and get out the toolkit.

 

Brian

I didn't like the way mine looked either untill I took the risers and had them professionally dipped and polished. It made a big difference by changing them from an oxidized aluminum look to a shinny bright chrome look and only cost about $60.00.
Posted
I didn't like the way mine looked either untill I took the risers and had them professionally dipped and polished. It made a big difference by changing them from an oxidized aluminum look to a shinny bright chrome look and only cost about $60.00.

 

Did that to a spare set, and ended up putting them on the '91. Cost a bit less, but still a great cosmetic improvement over the 'old' risers...... Time has taken it's toll on most 1stGen riser finishes, and because they're right up front and personal they can make a great looking bike appear shoddy.....

Posted

Jimbob and i have installed rizers and bars off a Kawa. Voyager , it moves the bars up and back and plus more of a spread .

Thom

Posted (edited)
Jimbob and i have installed rizers and bars off a Kawa. Voyager , it moves the bars up and back and plus more of a spread .

Thom

The original setup did not have enough adjustment for me. Yes, Voyager bars are adjustable and comfortable but you have to worry bout hitting the mirrors if you adjust them too much, plus they are normal bars so you can attach stuff easy like GPS.. I had to much tendonitus from the old bars who ever designed the angle of those bars ought to be shot. Poor design in my opinion. I like my bars more foward like a dirt bike or a Roadking. Look at my pictures. I also have a set of black powder coated risers with chrome inserts from the original set up if someone wants them. I think I have a pictoral somewhere on this site about how I did Voyager bar set up.

Edited by CrazyHorse
Posted
I also have a set of black powder coated risers with chrome inserts from the original set up if someone wants them. I think I have a pictoral somewhere on this site about how I did it.

 

Interesting. How much do you need for the black risers Jim??

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I want to adjust my handlebars and also put some oil in my fork tubes. However, I can not seem to figure out how to remove the black plastic cover. Does it just pop off? I do not want to break it. Oh, mine is an 83

Posted (edited)

There's a small rectangular insert towards the tank cover which pops out. Phillips head underneath. Forgot what, if anything is on the insert, lost mine :confused24:

 

I haven't looked to see where mine are adjusted on the '83. I wouldn't mind mine back further, maybe an inch or so. But more important I would like my grips to be angled more forward so that I would have less wrist flexing and my hand would be more perpendicular on the grip. Of course that creates a problem since the two contradict each other. Oh well, maybe I'll win the lottery:rotfl::rotf::crackup:

Edited by barend
Posted
I didn't like the way mine looked either untill I took the risers and had them professionally dipped and polished. It made a big difference by changing them from an oxidized aluminum look to a shinny bright chrome look and only cost about $60.00.

 

My risers look like chrome. Several years ago I stripped the clear coat and polished them and now, ever month or so I will use a little aluminum polish, like Mother's, and they look great and it only takes a couple of minutes. This is not a hard job and you don't have to take them off, even though I originally took mine off and polished them with a buffing wheel.

RandyA

Posted

I took paint stripper and removed all the paint & clear coat from these.

 

Then sanded with 400 grit, then 800 grit sandpaper.

 

The buffed on a 1HP buffer setup I have with a medium polish, then used Mothers for the final polish.

 

I then taped off and powder coated centers of the risers.

 

Getting the old clear coat off of any of these items is the hardest part. It has to be removed in order to get a decent luster back to the parts. I use an aircraft paint stripper available at Auto Zone that works very well.

 

The clear coat turns opaque after time and no amount of polishing with it still on will work well.

 

The picture of the stator cover shows the reflection from a piece of paper. This cover was oxidized and very dull before stripping, sanding & polishing.

 

Also, the parts should be clear coated with a UV resistant paint afterwords. The untreated aluminum will start to oxidize with no covering. Engine covers require a high temp clear coat.

 

Gary

Posted

Under the cover in between the bars are 2 nuts that hold the bars onto the triple tree assy. Take the large top nuts off and loosen the 2 12mm bolts and the bars will slide up off the mounts and can be spaced inward or outwards. The actual handle bars that retain the trottle and electronics can be loosened to bring them up and down, they are very adjustable.

 

I can't get at them with a crescent so I guess I need a big socket. Can you tell me what size they are so I can go buy one please?

Posted
I can't get at them with a crescent so I guess I need a big socket. Can you tell me what size they are so I can go buy one please?

 

1-1/8" will work. I think it's 28mm, but not absolutely sure.

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