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Posted
:bang head: Here we go again. We now have a new clutch, new slave, plenty of pull on the handle, no air in the lines, clear return hole, scuffed the metal plates, and still the thing slips. The only thing that isn't new on the thing is the pressure plate. The only positive is that it doesn't seem to slip quite as bad. Now I'm wondering, would it help if I replaced a couple of the (cork) plates with steel ones? Or do I go with an aftermarket clutch spring? As I'm at a complete loss of ideas, how about some more of that advice?
Posted

plates(cork and steel), clutch boss, clutch spring, slave cylinder,prestone dot3 in hydraulics, yamalube 20-40 in motor.

Posted

You need to have a weee bit of play on the handle when it's released, do you have that? This is starting to really drive me bonkers. How much tourque on the clutch springs? Did you line up the clutch plates properly? Maybe somebody put in the wrong size push rod, so maybe check that out, pull the cover and make sure it returns all the way and allows the clutch to come together completey. I'm gone all day, 'see' you tonight.

Posted

Bite the bullet and install your clutch the PCW Racing Vmax way. Get their heavy duty clutch spring, throw out the half size diameter friction disc, the small steel ring that's supposed to go inside that half size friction disc, the cheesy long wire that holds those two parts in, and replace that half size friction disc with another full size one. Your actually removing the (clutch damper) and replacing these part with one full size clutch (fiber) plate. follow the PCW instructions. This make a bullet proof clutch, its what I did.

Make sure you install the fiber (cork) plates correctly, read manual or read here: http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

This guy is actually doubling up 2 clutch diaphram springs here.

 

Call John, tell him what you've done so far, he'll walk you thru it. http://www.pcwracing.net/featured.htm

Posted

OKScooter or anyone who knows, what is the deal with the clutch damper? It literally just consists of a half thickness disk, ring and retaining wire? What is its purpose? What is the trade-off of removing it?

 

Jeremy

Posted
OKScooter or anyone who knows, what is the deal with the clutch damper? It literally just consists of a half thickness disk, ring and retaining wire? What is its purpose? What is the trade-off of removing it?

 

Jeremy

it's purpose is to make clutch engagement smoother. An anti-chatter clutch. It provides a small amount of slipping at the point of engagement. I removed mine long ago (on my '83), replaced those parts with full size clutch plates, did away with the wire that separated the thinner plates from the rest of the plates. I never noticed any difference.

Posted

Thanks. I asked the trade-off of removing it, now, what is the benefit of removing it? Is is a known common cause of slippage?

 

Thanks again,

Jeremy

Posted
Thanks. I asked the trade-off of removing it, now, what is the benefit of removing it? Is is a known common cause of slippage?

 

Thanks again,

Jeremy

It's not a common cause of slippage. As long as the clutch plates and springs are in good condition, the stock clutch (with the anti-chatter) works just fine. It gets removed by gearheads like me who want to go a little faster, put more power to the ground, lift the front wheel...basically, it's sort of a hot-rod thing to remove it. Some people just like to tinker.

Posted

Is it believed that removing the anti-chatter and replacing with a regular disk makes the clutch "stouter", that is, able to handle more power?

 

Thanks for tolerating my persistent questions.

Jeremy

Posted
Is it believed that removing the anti-chatter and replacing with a regular disk makes the clutch "stouter", that is, able to handle more power?

 

Thanks for tolerating my persistent questions.

Jeremy

Yes, a little "stouter", but more important to racers, more controlable by the rider. An experienced drag racer wants to be able to control the amount of clutch slip himsself for a good hard launch. The anti-chatter feature of the clutch is so that inexperienced riders can take off smoothly, without the bike "bucking". An experienced rider doesn't need that feature, can feel what the clutch is doing. Also without the anti-chatter, the clutch will "grab" exactly when the racer wants it to hook up. AND it makes showing off by lifting the front wheel a lot easier...lift the front wheel hitting second gear, too. Or if you do it right, light up the rear tire and paint a black line on the pavement. (But I don't do that anymore:whistling:)

Posted
Yes, a little "stouter", but more important to racers, more controlable by the rider. An experienced drag racer wants to be able to control the amount of clutch slip himsself for a good hard launch. The anti-chatter feature of the clutch is so that inexperienced riders can take off smoothly, without the bike "bucking". An experienced rider doesn't need that feature, can feel what the clutch is doing. Also without the anti-chatter, the clutch will "grab" exactly when the racer wants it to hook up. AND it makes showing off by lifting the front wheel a lot easier...lift the front wheel hitting second gear, too. Or if you do it right, light up the rear tire and paint a black line on the pavement. (But I don't do that anymore:whistling:)

 

Now that could get a few comments. But I won't say Nothing...:stirthepot::stirthepot::think:

Posted
Now that could get a few comments. But I won't say Nothing...:stirthepot::stirthepot::think:

Why? How long did you say your last rear tire lasted?:rotf:

Posted

I put in a Barnett when I got the Venture and it still slipped. I dont remember if I did any other mods to the clutch but I did double up the spring and that solved the problem.

Don

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