Monsta Posted July 6, 2007 #1 Posted July 6, 2007 I did and used transmission fluid. I think it is too thin as the fluid "bounces" around a lot. Has anyone tried gear lube? I figure a 75 weight gear lube would be better than the water thin ATF I used. (I now clearly understand why Mercury is used in this application. ) I have about 2-3 feet of hose between the fluid & the carb so I'm not really worried about it being sucked into the engine.
rod Posted July 6, 2007 #2 Posted July 6, 2007 Did you put restrictors in the tubes? If you put a bead in the tubes it will help the pulses and heavy oil works better. Rod
endo Posted July 6, 2007 #3 Posted July 6, 2007 I used tranny fluid, continuous loop 3/8 ID or so clear vinyl hose, then a coupler between the clear vinyl and vacuum hose of more appropriate diameter and less temperature sensitivity. I think the coupler helps buffer the pulses and while they are still visible, the gauge gets a very fine and sensitive adjustment in. If you toch the vinyl to anything hot it quickly melts. This is simply a balancer between two cylinders, which works perfectly on my 1st Gen and my BMW. I compared with dial gauges of a friend's at a nearby shop, and it's right on the money.
uthpda Posted July 6, 2007 #4 Posted July 6, 2007 I have! Tried the tube method with tranny fluid...not fun! I did alittle more looking and found instructions to make a home one with bottle.... check it out here...http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_synchronize_the_carburetors%3F It seems to work pretty well and much easier to mess with!
Gearhead Posted July 6, 2007 #5 Posted July 6, 2007 No, but I've heard heavy gear oil recommended. If you do get some sucked into the engine it won't hurt anything. Jeremy
endo Posted July 7, 2007 #6 Posted July 7, 2007 Here's what mine look like front/back: http://www.seawall.com/sync-front.jpghttp://www.seawall.com/sync-back.jpg This example could use a little more fluid. It works just fine. The hoses loop through the backboard creating a reservoir loop in the back, then loop through the back again, with little clamps holding the hose in place at strategic points. Crude but effective.
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