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Fuel Filter


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With all the good info I have read on this site I thought i would chime in with a tip. First of all the fuel filter is difficult but not impossible to remove but i didnt want to repeat that madness everytime i needed to change it. First of all to remove the filter i used needle nosed pliers,a flat blade screwdriver, phillips screw driver, 1/4 drive ratchet, a phillips bit (from my cordless drill)and a socket to hold the bit. You will also need to visit NAPA and get 3 zip ties and a NAPA 3011 fuel filter, It costs around 3.50 and it is a paper element so it will stop all the bad stuff and it is encased in clear plastic so you wont be guessing if there is any crud in the filter. I removed the sidecovers and shut off the fuel valve and freed the fuel line from the metal strap that holds it in place under the fuel tank. On the other side where the filter is i used the 1/4 ratchet with the bit and i was able to loosen and remove the screw that holds the filter in place. It wasnt easy but with a little dexterity i was able to fit the ratchet between the swingarm and frame with my right hand and hold the head of the ratchet with my left hand to maintain pressure on the screw till it was off. I removed the screw that holds the filter bracket to the frame and removed the bracket and now the bracket has a home in a drawer. Use the needle nose pliers to squeeze the clamps and slide them back on the hose. Use a flatblade screwdriver to pry the fuel line from the filter on both sides and toss that milky colored filter.The beauty of this whole post is a napa 3011 fuel filter will work and is shorter and easily fits in that tight spot and it will not collapse when you are at full throttle. Just clip off the smaller diameter ends of the filter tube and attatch to the fuel lines. Slide the clamps back over and now you have a nice clear filter but the whole thing kind of flops around. Put a zip tie through the hole where the filter clamp screw was and wrap it around the fuel filter. Now you can use the other zip ties to secure the fuel line. I just tied them to the frame and did it so the fuel filter is nice and level. You can put some electrical tape on the fuel line before you zip tie it if you think the zip tie might rub a hole in the fuel line. Dont forget to hook the line back into the metal strap on the other side. Now you can change the filter next time quicker than the guys changing tires on a racecar at a nascar race. Just use a pair of snips to cut the ties, loosen the clamps,replace the filter and reassemble. Put on 3 ties and you are DONE. This filter is close to the diameter of the stock filter so you purists out there can put it back in the clamp if you want. It is not as long as the stock filter but hey i can replace it once a year for 3.50 versus not replacing the filter this year because the stealer wants 20.00 bucks. Good Luck:sun::sun:

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  • 4 weeks later...

I pop the two bolts holding the fuel pump, lean it away and the fuel filter is "right there"... Otherwise you DO have to hire two midgets and a monkey to get to that darned thing. I usde to think that the Japs designed this for their "smaller hands" but there's just too many things that even a child would have trouble with... so we find another way to get the job done...

 

And on the 1st gen, I just don't think there's room for that "upper" mount location shown on the 2nd gen photo.

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I have to say that one of the best part of this place is getting a response to a question, but???

Now I have to choose between Locomotives tutorial or Mbroods popping off the fuel pump and doing it that way. I'm assuming I'd be replacing the stock filter, which I'd have to make a trip to get.

I'm leaning towards Locomotives way.

 

Decisions - Decisions

 

Thanks guys,

 

Steve

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Well, it's done, new (referenced) carquest fuel filter is intalled.

It seems that the phillips screw holding the filter clamp wouldn't have to be removed, (the one using the 1/4" drive ratchet with a phillips bit) just the phillips holding the bracket to the frame, which can be done with an ordinary phillips screw driver. It faces straight out at you.

But first I removed the hose clamps and the hoses from the filter.

I did follow Locomotive's tutoirial. Thanks Locomotive!!!

Aso, I wouldn't remove the hose from the clamp dirctly under the middle of the tank. Very hard to get back in place!

The filter, 3011 when cross referenced had the wrong size ends. I just ended up getting the same filter with the correct sized ends. Then the stock hose clamps worked.

But, all in all it went OK. A lot better than I had anticipated

And, the filter looks very good with the paper inside of the clear plastic housing.

I also removed the on/off/reserve valve and flushed the tank out.

 

I have an update:

I was just over at my friends Triumph shop, and he has fuel filters, paper /inside of the plastic, same size as stock for $4.50.

I'm glad that I saved the stock bracket. Next year it will go back on. Just clamp the filter in the bracket, plug the hoses in and with one screw attach it to the frame.

 

Steve

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  • 4 years later...

I just put a stock filter on my 91 venture royale 1300. Ordered from yamaha on the net. $13.61 & $6.95 to ship. They have went to a plastic filter which is smaller than the metal one. I had to do some jerry rigging to keep it in the bracket. I also pulled the pump. Thanks, for the tip. If you stand on your head you can almost do it... LOL:rotf:

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This is a very old thread, and IMHO it is very wrong. The stock fuel filter on a 2nd gen is extremely easy to change without removing anything at all except the seat and battery covers. The idea that this is a hard job is a very old rumor that really needs to be out to rest!

Goose

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This is a very old thread, and IMHO it is very wrong. The stock fuel filter on a 2nd gen is extremely easy to change without removing anything at all except the seat and battery covers. The idea that this is a hard job is a very old rumor that really needs to be out to rest!

Goose

 

It started as a thread for the g1 bikes though.

 

Brian

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