Disk brake rotors

[kwisor]

Hi all tomorrow i will be putting my rotors back on the wheels of my 99 rsv frt & rear dose anyone know the touque spec. And what is the best lock tight to use if any.

Thank you

kevin wisor

1999 rsv

jax fl

[ahoutzer]

No, but I do applaud your decision to put the rotors back on. I wouldn't go anywhere without mine.

[kwisor]

Thay are off becouse i had them painted black and now i am putting the bike back togeather i painted the bike yellow and black i didn't think gray wheels would look good with yellow and black

kevin wisor

1999 rsv

jax fl

[gibvel]

Hi all tomorrow i will be putting my rotors back on the wheels of my 99 rsv frt & rear dose anyone know the touque spec. And what is the best lock tight to use if any.

Thank you

kevin wisor

1999 rsv

jax fl

 

The service manual says to use 648 loctite (high temp stuff) and the torque is 17ft/lbs. Manual also says to tighten in stages and a criss cross pattern. Same on both front and rear. Many would probably say that the 648 loctite isn't necessary and hard to find (had to order mine cause I couldn't find it anywhere). Maybe just the high holding stuff would be sufficient.

 

May want to put the wheel back on right after tightening the bolts down and check for warping and adjust the bolt if necessary. I think mine had a slight warp but it's better than the old rotor was.

[gibvel]

Thay are off becouse i had them painted black and now i am putting the bike back togeather i painted the bike yellow and black i didn't think gray wheels would look good with yellow and black

kevin wisor

1999 rsv

jax fl

 

You had the rotors painted? I don't think that will work.

[kwisor]

No the wheels where painted i will post photos this weekend when i get done putting it back together thanks's for the spec's

kevin wisor

1999 rsv

jax fl

[V7Goose]

The service manual says to use 648 loctite (high temp stuff) and the torque is 17ft/lbs. Manual also says to tighten in stages and a criss cross pattern. Same on both front and rear. Many would probably say that the 648 loctite isn't necessary and hard to find (had to order mine cause I couldn't find it anywhere). Maybe just the high holding stuff would be sufficient.

 

May want to put the wheel back on right after tightening the bolts down and check for warping and adjust the bolt if necessary. I think mine had a slight warp but it's better than the old rotor was.

First let me state that I am NOT advising anyone to not follow Yamahaha's maintenance manual, especially on something with potentially life-safety ramifications. But . . .

 

Loctite 648 just does not seem to be the correct product for those bolts. Yes, I know that is what the maintenance manual clearly states, but it is wrong in SO many other areas, including several torque specs, that I have to wonder about their intelligence!

 

648 is not even a threadlocker! In Loctite's own documentation, 648 is specifically designed for press-fit cylindrical items, like a bearing race in a wheel or a gear on a shaft. It has a temp rating up to 350 degrees. Those are normal bolts that need to be disassembled with hand tools. My personal choice is standard blue Loctite 242, which has a temp rating up to 300 degrees. I have found no way to compare the two products directly, since they are documented in completely different application and technical manuals by Loctite. Since I remove my front rotors every time I mount a front tire, I will continue to use the 242.

Goose

[Squeeze]

The newer Bolts for the Rotors from Yamaha (i.e. FJR, R1, ...) come with the Thread Locker already applied. It's BLUE ...

[gibvel]

First let me state that I am NOT advising anyone to not follow Yamahaha's maintenance manual, especially on something with potentially life-safety ramifications. But . . .

 

Loctite 648 just does not seem to be the correct product for those bolts. Yes, I know that is what the maintenance manual clearly states, but it is wrong in SO many other areas, including several torque specs, that I have to wonder about their intelligence!

 

648 is not even a threadlocker! In Loctite's own documentation, 648 is specifically designed for press-fit cylindrical items, like a bearing race in a wheel or a gear on a shaft. It has a temp rating up to 350 degrees. Those are normal bolts that need to be disassembled with hand tools. My personal choice is standard blue Loctite 242, which has a temp rating up to 300 degrees. I have found no way to compare the two products directly, since they are documented in completely different application and technical manuals by Loctite. Since I remove my front rotors every time I mount a front tire, I will continue to use the 242.

Goose

 

Thanks for the addition and the good (as always) logic Goose!!

[greg_in_london]

Since I remove my front rotors every time I mount a front tire, I will continue to use the 242.

 

I have a first gen so I suppose it could be different, but why do you remove your brake discs every time ? Are you that concerned about leaning on the discs ?

 

[i've never had a reason to take mine off in twelve years.]

[Eck]

but why do you remove your brake discs every time ?

Are you that concerned about leaning on the discs ?

 

[i've never had a reason to take mine off in twelve years.]

 

 

Hey Greg,

Your doing what I always do....

You may want to read the (3rd) post in this thread..(above) which states:

Thay are off becouse i had them painted black and now i am putting the bike back togeather i painted the bike yellow and black i didn't think gray wheels would look good with yellow and black

kevin wisor

1999 rsv

jax fl

[V7Goose]

I have a first gen so I suppose it could be different, but why do you remove your brake discs every time ? Are you that concerned about leaning on the discs ?

 

[i've never had a reason to take mine off in twelve years.]

It only takes a minute or two to take them off and put them back on, especially when using an air ratchet. By removing them, I know there is absolutely zero chance that I will ever damage one while changing a tire. In addition, the front wheel does not fit comfortably in the tire changer I have with a disk on the bottom, so if I am going to take one off, I might as well take both. I have done it with the top rotor in place, but I just feel I have to concentrate too much on holding the bar high to stay away from the rotor, so I like it off.

 

I have never removed the rear rotor - that wheel fits in the tire changer fine with it on the bottom where it is protected.

 

If I was still changing tires manually with tire irons, I would not feel the need to remove the rotors.

Goose