How do I eliminate anti dive system?

[motorbiketim]

Can anyone tell me what must I do to eliminate the anti dive system on my 83 Venture?

I'm also interested in de-linking the brakes and would appreciate any feedback on this too.

 

Thanks!

 

Tim

 

http:http://www.kloppenberg.us/motorbiketim

[GeorgeS]

Check with " Condor " on the anti dive item.

 

As to delinking the brakes, that gets complicated, Some have done it, but most folks reccomend against it.

 

Also, replaceing the Front Calipers, with the R1 or R6 yamaha model front calipers seems to be a popular modification.

 

Check with " Squeeze " on the brake information.

[Schlepporello]

Also, replaceing the Front Calipers, with the R1 or R6 yamaha model front calipers seems to be a popular modification.

Does this improve braking?

Do the calipers bolt right up without modifications?

Is it expensive to do this?

Can this be done to an 84 VR?

[friesman]

Does this improve braking?

Do the calipers bolt right up without modifications?

Is it expensive to do this?

Can this be done to an 84 VR?

 

Have a look its in the archives. You know this means you just found more work for yourself over the winter dont you?

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=248819&postcount=1

 

Brian

[bongobobny]

Does this improve braking?

Do the calipers bolt right up without modifications?

Is it expensive to do this?

Can this be done to an 84 VR?

 

Yes, no, maybe, not without changing front forks!

 

 

To eliminate the anti dive, you need to replace your dual banjo bolts with single banjo bolts, and then make all gone with the short hydraulic line and cap off the end at the forks. This is not that great of an idea as the anti dive does work fairly well for what it is designed to do. You can put in progressive springs to alieviate the front end dive when braking hard. What will really help out the braking on Mk1's is to switch to stainless steel lines. Contact Rick H. at Buckeye Performance for a good price on custom made lines...

[CrazyHorse]

Can anyone tell me what must I do to eliminate the anti dive system on my 83 Venture?

I'm also interested in de-linking the brakes and would appreciate any feedback on this too.

 

Thanks!

 

Tim

 

http:www.kloppenberg.us/motorbiketim

 

I dont think R1/R6 calipers fit on a 1983 you would need 86-93 forks. Delinking is not that hard. The right side plastic has to come off side panel and fairing. Find the rear master cylinder and remove the brake line that runs to the front of the bike it snakes up all the way to neck of the frame. Now you can either keep or remove the proportioning valve if you keep it you need to plug the hole from where the front line came out of I believe its a 10mm x 1.25 pitch put a bolt in there with a copper washer if you want to remove it just attach the rear line the master cylinder. Your next decision is what type of connection do you want your front brakes to run off the master cylinder. Some people run the same front master cylinder and its fine. I used a GSXR600/750 master with an adjustable lever but you dont have a fluid level indicator anymore and your dash light will come on. Since I dont care about a fluid level I just tied the wires together to get the dash light to go out. Now you must decide on the front brake line set up either double banjo bolt which is what I did and recommend against or run one line and use a tee fitting mounted on the fork brace? (not sure what they call it its not the brace thats visible but high up under the fairing. Now I would use stainless steel lines now for all lines. The hardest part is getting the measurment right for each line (so you know what length lines to order) I used a string and you need to turn the handlebars to make sure you have enough extra line for movement of the handlebars. Parts you will need are 4 brake lines, t-fitting, 12 washers, I used goodyear lines and I had to buy fittings for each end of the line you'll need to figure out what angle of fitting you need. I believe they come in 0, 45, and 90 degrees. I also used speed bleeders which work great except when the line is brand new and full of air. I ended up using the regular bleeders till I got the line filled up with fluid and then switched to speed bleeders which make bleeding a breeze. PM if you need help.

[PBJ]

I guess the question need to be asked, what would be the reason to de link the brakes or remove the anti dive? I have a honda without a linked system and my Venture that does and i don't feel muxch of a difference .as far as the anti dive, i agree with Bongo the Mk1 have spring that turn to mush over the years. Fresh progressive should perk the front end right up.Try the spring change first then see if you still want to go to all that trouble.

[davepa]

Can anyone tell me what must I do to eliminate the anti dive system on my 83 Venture?

I'm also interested in de-linking the brakes and would appreciate any feedback on this too.

 

Thanks!

 

Tim

 

http:www.kloppenberg.us/motorbiketim

 

 

Tim sent you a PM

Dave

[Squidley]

The R1 upgrade wont work on the MKI forks, you would have to swap them over to the MKII '86 and up. I also wouldn't recommend loosing the anti dive, it does help with quite a lot of front end stability in a hard stop situation.

[Condor]

Check with " Condor " on the anti dive item. .

 

I've never had need to remove the AD's, but I have read where some riders have taken them off and put a plate over the area with new O rings. Then it's just a matter of removing the short AD line and getting a shorter banjo bolt for the brake line. Maybe someone else who's doen it can jump in here and give a report on the results??

[Condor]

Does this improve braking?

Do the calipers bolt right up without modifications?

Is it expensive to do this?

Can this be done to an 84 VR?

 

No, the MkI's have an 83mm bolt spread and the R1/R6 calipers are 100mm.

[Venturous Randy]

I've never had need to remove the AD's, but I have read where some riders have taken them off and put a plate over the area with new O rings. Then it's just a matter of removing the short AD line and getting a shorter banjo bolt for the brake line. Maybe someone else who's doen it can jump in here and give a report on the results??

 

Just curious, if you block off the anti dives with a plate, does that not make it like the antidives are engaged all the time? Isn't what the antidive unit is doing is restricting flow thru the shock valving mechanism? Enquireing minds want to know.

RandyA

[Condor]

Just curious, if you block off the anti dives with a plate, does that not make it like the antidives are engaged all the time? Isn't what the antidive unit is doing is restricting flow thru the shock valving mechanism? Enquireing minds want to know.

RandyA

 

I don't think so Randy. The AD's are actuated by the pressure coming from the master thru the caliper. If it doesn't get any pressure they will not activate. So I'd say they are off all the time. But maybe I'm wrong...wadda I know??

 

Just to throw a little more fuel on the fire, here's a link that Rick Butler sent me a while back about a new type suspension system. I'm going to install a set up in my '91....as soon as I find that #$!@#$@$ leak....

http://www.racetech.com/

Edited December 3, 2008 by Condor

[Venturous Randy]

I don't think so Randy. The AD's are actuated by the pressure coming from the master thru the caliper. If it doesn't get any pressure they will not activate. So I'd say they are off all the time. But maybe I'm wrong...wadda I know??

 

Just to throw a little more fuel on the fire, here's a link that Rick Butler sent me a while back about a new type suspension system. I'm going to install a set up in my '91....as soon as I find that #$!@#$@$ leak....

 

http://www.racetech.com/

 

When ever you remove the antidive units, there are two o-rings around two holes. These holes direct fluid thru the AD units. When you activate the AD units with brake fluid pressure, you are closing or restricting the shock fluid flow, making the shock stiffer. If you put a plate over these holes, you are in essence completely blocking fluid flow. Therefore, it would be as if the AD units are completely activated all the time.

I can not see any other way it would be.

RandyA

[motorbiketim]

Thanks for all the input. I think that I'll try to make some block off plates and see what happens.

 

If only i could leave well enough alone!

[friesman]

Thanks for all the input. I think that I'll try to make some block off plates and see what happens.

 

If only i could leave well enough alone!

 

Please keep us posted how it works and supply pics.

 

Brian

[rhncue]

Thanks for all the input. I think that I'll try to make some block off plates and see what happens.

 

If only i could leave well enough alone!

 

On my 83 I read that by eliminating the anti-dives more hydraulic action would be put to the calipers so I changed my brake lines to stainless and eliminated the line going from the caliper to the anti-dive units, essentially, eliminating them although they are still in place. These two actions greatly improved my front brake stopping ability. I also have progressive springs both front and back. The problem now is that the front end really dives and bottoms out anytime I hit the front brakes very hard at all. The seal on one side is leaking and the tubes won't hold air so I just bought a whole front fork assembly off of an 87 that I will swap out this Spring. Hopefully, this will give me the great braking ability that I presently enjoy but at the same time have a comfortable ride.

 

Dick

[greg_in_london]

RE: the brakes - Jimbob's directions are sound.If you're paying attention to brakes, adding stainless steel braided hose is just good maintenance. Eliminating the linked system is an improvement if you are used to conventional brakes.

 

As PJ says, the standard springs can be upgraded. I think mine were 'Sonic Springs' and it was a great improvement.

[CrazyHorse]

RE: the brakes - Jimbob's directions are sound.If you're paying attention to brakes, adding stainless steel braided hose is just good maintenance. Eliminating the linked system is an improvement if you are used to conventional brakes.

 

As PJ says, the standard springs can be upgraded. I think mine were 'Sonic Springs' and it was a great improvement.

 

Another good alternative is Rick Butlers suggestion of using cartridge type springs. I cant remember the name of them off the top of my head. Squeeze has lots of good suggestions pm him.

[5bikes]

Removing the anti-dives is not dangerous, expensive or hard to do on the MK1's. This is not for the anti-dives operated electrically.

It does improve braking greatly. Simply remove the brake hose and banjo bolt from the anti-dive. Take this single banjo bolt and use it at the caliper where the double bajo bolt was.

Rebleed brakes.

Leave the antidive in place but plug the hole where the banjo bolt was. Done!

 

I've done it on 2 bikes. I can stop the bike now with just the front hand brake lever, where before both brake levers felt spongy and ineffective.

Oh, you won't even notice the the difference because the anti-dive were mostly ineffective in 90% of your braking.

Why do you think bikes don't come with them now? It was a marketing ploy.