winterizing tips

[Sideoftheroad]

After putting fuel stabilizer in and running the bike for a couple minutes does anyone turn the fuel petcock off to drain the carbs?

 

Also I attached my batter tender the other day to the battery when I noticed corrosion on the (I believe) positive post. This is a new battery that I bought this summer so I shouldn't be having this problem. But from what I remember need to use baking soda or wife brush to clean it off. Can't remember what to use to keep it from coming back.

 

Thanks.

[flb_78]

http://www.adventurerv.net/images/stag-551713.jpg/101/250/popup

 

http://www.adventurerv.net/battery-corrosion-preventative-spray-118-p-7080.html

[dynodon]

Corrosion on the battery terminal or metal parts near it mean something wrong with the system. Either the battery is bad causing the bike or the charger to charge too much, or the bike or charger are bad and charging too much.

 

Clean the terminals with baking soda to neutralize the acid, Coat any bare metal with paint or rubberized paint. You won't need a terminal treatment if the battery/bike/charger are working right, but Interstate battery stores have a terminal treatment that is clear.

 

You can also use clear paint, it works pretty good.

 

make sure you don't have something draining the battery all the time causing constant charging. Remove the negative cable, that might stop some of the problems.

 

Even a brand new battery can have a bad cell, or it can go bad quickly, so remove the battery and have it checked by a battery shop, they can put a load on the battery and give it a real test.

 

Put a Battery Mat under the battery when you re-install it to help keep acid damage down.

 

Good place to get them is here;

 

http://www.dccarcare.com

[Monsta]

After putting fuel stabilizer in and running the bike for a couple minutes does anyone turn the fuel petcock off to drain the carbs?

One of the benefits of using stabilizer is not needing to drain the carbs.

 

I smear a bit a grease on each terminal.

[Sideoftheroad]

Don,

Since I bought the battery this is the 1st time I have put it on the battery tender. Bike starts up everytime w/out any issues as if there was a constant drain on the battery.

 

I can pull it and have it checked out but if the bike is charging too much, how is that corrected? I can at least say the old battery didn't have any corrosion on the post.

[waterbug]

If you have a volt meter you can check the bat and watch it without the tender on it for a few days and see if it is losing charge, and you should also be able to see what the chargers are putting out if they are doing to much. Good luck

[Jrichard]

WINTER-----------what the hell is that??????----------winterization tips---------Daytona beach: working on my TAN.and S.TEXAS,riding the 'hillcountry'---------timely tips from Jrichard:thumbsup2::sun1::sun1:

[PBJ]

WINTER-----------what the hell is that??????----------winterization tips---------Daytona beach: working on my TAN.and S.TEXAS,riding the 'hillcountry'---------timely tips from Jrichard:thumbsup2::sun1::sun1:

Sure rub it in!

[KiteSquid]

We went for a nice ride this past Saturday...

 

 

I would recommend closing the fuel petcock for storage, but leave the carbs full of fuel with stabilizer in it.

 

Pour in some Seafoam or to save some money, use Camp Fuel and some fuel stabilizer in your fuel over winter.

 

Store the tank full or remove it and use some Kreem in it (make sure you remove the fuel level sender first!!!!!) to keep the tank from rusting.

 

Most fuel you buy today has about 10% ethanol in it, so moisture is usually not a problem.

[Chinto]

We went for a nice ride this past Saturday...

 

 

I would recommend closing the fuel petcock for storage, but leave the carbs full of fuel with stabilizer in it.

 

Pour in some Seafoam or to save some money, use Camp Fuel and some fuel stabilizer in your fuel over winter.

 

Store the tank full or remove it and use some Kreem in it (make sure you remove the fuel level sender first!!!!!) to keep the tank from rusting.

 

Most fuel you buy today has about 10% ethanol in it, so moisture is usually not a problem.

 

 

I thought that the ethanol additive is naturally hydrophilic which is why we have to worry more about water in the fuel. Plus isn't the ethanol additive more corrosive to the carburetor components? I don't think stabilized gas neutralizes the corrosive nature of ethanol so letting is stay in the carbs would not be a good thing for very long. I remember reading some articles reporting the consequences of ethanol on the carbs. This is why I have also run the carbs dry for storage to prevent ethanol damage. I certainly stabilize a topped off gas tank to prevent gumming. Have I got this wrong?

[N3FOL]

I don't winterize my bike and has been riding in cold weather ever since. Get yourself a nice set of heated liner and gloves from http://www.gerbing.com and you will be set for the winter ride. I rode in to work this morning and was very glad to see some once again.

 

Members recommend SeaFoam for winter storage...I use the product myself. Since you mentioned what most Venture owners do, when they have to turn the petcock to the 'OFF' position...wonder what that is for?

[KiteSquid]

I thought that the ethanol additive is naturally hydrophilic which is why we have to worry more about water in the fuel. Plus isn't the ethanol additive more corrosive to the carburetor components? I don't think stabilized gas neutralizes the corrosive nature of ethanol so letting is stay in the carbs would not be a good thing for very long. I remember reading some articles reporting the consequences of ethanol on the carbs. This is why I have also run the carbs dry for storage to prevent ethanol damage. I certainly stabilize a topped off gas tank to prevent gumming. Have I got this wrong?

 

Ethanol will bond with the water, so it cannot set in the bottom of the tank and rust it out, which has happened on many motorcycles.

 

the Ethanol is more corrosive than gassoline, but you cant get away from it in today's market.

 

you don't want to store your tank dry, as moisture in the air will rust the inside of your tank, unless you live in a place like Pima Arizona where the humidity hits about 3 to 7% most of the time........ You either have to keep the tank full of gas, or you have to coat it with something like Kreem or you have to seal it up with some humeticant to keep it from rusting. the inside of your tank is bare metal.

 

I do agree with your thoughts on Ethanol on the gaskets in the carb, but you will get a light coat of varnish on the carb when you let it dry out...

 

So it is a catch 22 at best.

 

 

I should do more research on storing motorcycles with modern fuels............

[frogmaster]

This is my Winter Plan: Already been doing this for 4 Weeks and only 5 months to go

 

Filled Tank and Added Stabilizer. Once a week I level the bike and start it up ((choked for first 3 to 5 mins)) Then Normal idle for another 5 minutes. Left Fuel Pet-Cock ON.

 

Repeat weekly for the next 5 MONTHS

 

Any 2 cents welcome.

[N3FOL]

I heard that if you leave your bike on choke for a long period of time, it could foul your plugs.

[Chinto]

Thanks KiteSquid,

 

I had a different understanding of how the ethanol handled water. I mistakenly thought it attracted water (pulled more water into the fuel) rather than bonding with it and allowing it to be "burned" off. I still worry about the corrosive nature of ethanol. You are certainly correct about availability of non ethanol added fuels. It is that or nothing. Do know if using SeaFoam regularly will reduce the effects on the carbs of the corrosive nature of ethanol? That should be fairly easy for the manufacture to test.

 

Thanks for clearing up my thinking,

 

Dave

[N3FOL]

Thanks KiteSquid,

 

I had a different understanding of how the ethanol handled water. I mistakenly thought it attracted water (pulled more water into the fuel) rather than bonding with it and allowing it to be "burned" off. I still worry about the corrosive nature of ethanol. You are certainly correct about availability of non ethanol added fuels. It is that or nothing. Do know if using SeaFoam regularly will reduce the effects on the carbs of the corrosive nature of ethanol? That should be fairly easy for the manufacture to test.

 

Thanks for clearing up my thinking,

 

Dave

 

From my readings, higher octane fuel is better for storage. Lower octane fuel has more ethanol and thus attracts more moisture.

[dunvilsteev]

I normally change the oil prior to "shedding" the baby for the winter.

 

Have been under the weather lately, (let me tell you about ureathane fumes and redoing a hardwood floor in the fall without proper ventilation!) so I have only put on a 1,000 km since the last change, about 650 miles.

 

Would you bother changing it? Thanks!

[Ky. Rider]

I add Seafoam, fill the tank up, hook up the battery tender and start it up every couple of weeks. It's worked so far. To be honest, all that may not be necessary because I have tractors that sit all winter with nothing done to them and they fire up in the spring just fine. I do believe a full tank prevents rust.

[Brake Pad]

Move to Florida:whistling:

[V7Goose]

I add Seafoam, fill the tank up, hook up the battery tender and start it up every couple of weeks. It's worked so far. To be honest, all that may not be necessary because I have tractors that sit all winter with nothing done to them and they fire up in the spring just fine. I do believe a full tank prevents rust.

You should not start the motor unless you are actually going to ride it for about 30 minutes or more to allow the oil to get hot enough to flash off all the water that you put into it every time you start the motor (plus the usual cold condensation). That water forms acids with the other combustion pollutants and shortens the life of your engine. MUCH better to properly prepare the engine and never start it until you are going to ride.

Goose

[N3FOL]

I normally change the oil prior to "shedding" the baby for the winter.

 

Have been under the weather lately, (let me tell you about ureathane fumes and redoing a hardwood floor in the fall without proper ventilation!) so I have only put on a 1,000 km since the last change, about 650 miles.

 

Would you bother changing it? Thanks!

 

I hope you feel better soon. Ureathane fumes can for sure do some damage to your health. It is a good idea to change the oil before winter really sets in. That reminds me to do that on my garden tractor and change the blades to be ready for next Spring.

 

Regards:grandpa:

[Ky. Rider]

You should not start the motor unless you are actually going to ride it for about 30 minutes or more to allow the oil to get hot enough to flash off all the water that you put into it every time you start the motor (plus the usual cold condensation). That water forms acids with the other combustion pollutants and shortens the life of your engine. MUCH better to properly prepare the engine and never start it until you are going to ride.

Goose

 

Thanks Goose for the input. I usually do take it for a ride or let it run awhile although I don't know that it is always 30 minutes. I pick my days that are warm enough to ride but in January/February I may not find one in a two week period so it just sits. Bill

[dunvilsteev]

Move to Florida:whistling:

 

 

Is that an offer for a "house trade" ..... ALL RIGHT!! You're on, I'll get the dogteam loaded and meet you at the airport .... might want to bring your thermal speedo.

[Brake Pad]

Is that an offer for a "house trade" ..... ALL RIGHT!! You're on, I'll get the dogteam loaded and meet you at the airport .... might want to bring your thermal speedo.

I used to live up in the great white north ( Nord ). Moved to Florida 16 years ago, and decided, that while laying next to a pool drinking an Ice cold beer, One November afternoon that I was never going back. Had a good job, but it couldn't keep me there.

Got here on a Thursday, and started a new job on Monday, and never looked back:parrots:

[Reed]

When you start your bike or truck what ever you have when it is cold. Look at the end of your exhaust pipe. Watch how much water colects! the moter needs to get to opp. temp for at least 1/2 hr to dry it all out or your pipes will rust. Thats why city people need to have there exhaust changed so often. I have a 84 chevy pickup with 250,000 miles with the original exhaust. "BUT" it never goes on a short trip. I live in ND. So I do know a little bit about cold starting.

My venture is put away for the winter. Full of fuel with a good shot of seafome & marvel Mistery oil, run the carbs dry, pulled the Battery & charged it then put it in the house Where it worm. Heard that makes them Last longer????????????? Sed good night & covered her up with a blanket till spring!

Ride safe & have fun!