I learned how to fix Ymaha rear end whine

[venture101]

I have the whine, getting worse. I was considering the clutch basket fix next Spring but now thinking I may have the rear end problem. My whine goes away completely when decelerating. Its there when constant speed and accelerating. I am a journeyman technician and that sounds like ring and pinion mesh problem to me. I kind of put that thought out of my mind when I first read about the clutch basket problem. I will have to wait till Spring when weather permits to do some more checking. May try a little Moly in the rear end first before any teardown just to see if the whine changes.

[JerryK]

TEW47,

GET A NEW DEALER!! You are not wrong.....HE IS!

They get paid by Yamaha to fix our bikes. Dealers who think like that will not help your situation. You probably know more than he does. I hope you are not in some isolated area with one dealer in a big area. Why do you think I travel past about 50 dealers and ride 3hrs to get it done. Tell that dealer that JerryK from Ohio says that the election is over! He missed the boat....should have ran for some self serving political office!

I'll probably get spanked for these comments .....but......If I had listened to the Dealer advise I was getting around my area I would be riding a new Goldwing by now!

 

 

 

 

Shy and reserve in Ohio.....LOL JerryK

[Monsta]

Monsta,

You are taking the load off the rear end and the clutch at the same time. Can you hear what directions the sound is coming from under power? Could be either but same way my rear end acted.

JerryK

I hear the noise mainly from the clutch area. That's why I figured it was the clutch basket everyone talks about.

 

Last time the tire was changed about 1500 miles ago everything was lubed and inspected and no abnormal wear was noticed by the technician. (Not saying a whole lot but...)

[JerryK]

Sounds like clutch if you are right about direction......it's hard to seperate.

 

 

 

 

 

JerryK

[raceman62race]

Monsta,

Read about all the issues I had with my dealer here

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28952

[JerryK]

Raceman,

Please get you a good air gage.....it's critical to keep checking tire pressure..A big % of riders laying Ventures down is air pressure. Last year I had shoulder surg. and it set in the garage for 2 months....when I tried to ride I thought Damnnnnn I'm not feeling like riding this thing yet ....it felt like ****.......a friend of mine took a ride on it and agreed it felt terrible.......had 20 lbs in both tires.....i run 40-45 front and back......

Get rid of those original tires and get some other brand. I love Avon Venoms but also like Metzler 880 tires.

 

 

 

JerryK

[raceman62race]

I did get rid of the orginal tires. Bought some Dunlop Elite III's. I try to run about 40 PSI in my tires as well. I contacted Bridgestone to see what they said about M/C tires loosing air and their response was they loose, on average, about 1 PSI per month and about 1 PSI for every 10 deg. of temperture drop. I have gotten to where I gauge them about every 2 weeks or before a long trip and of course I do a quick visual inspection every time I get on it....haven't had to add air so far and I have had them for about a month.

[JerryK]

Raceman

I had never had a large pressure change until I had the surgery last year and it was real hot out. I was told that because my garage would get hot during the day then cool way of that the up and down big changes would take the pressure down and not come back. But too many times I here of people who have got their bike out after a while of not riding then have problems. A Cinncinati Harley guy joined his friends for a spring ride after months of not riding and he unexplanably went down in an easy sweeper curve in the middle of the pack. It was later found that pressure was very low when bike was hauled back to Harley shop. He seemed OK but died within 24 hrs of internal problems. I might be 60....but I'm too young and goodlooking to go that way. I'm amazed at the times my tires change at different times.

 

 

 

 

 

JerryK

[raceman62race]

Jerry,

How often do you gauge your tires?

[N3FOL]

Raceman

I had never had a large pressure change until I had the surgery last year and it was real hot out. I was told that because my garage would get hot during the day then cool way of that the up and down big changes would take the pressure down and not come back. But too many times I here of people who have got their bike out after a while of not riding then have problems. A Cinncinati Harley guy joined his friends for a spring ride after months of not riding and he unexplanably went down in an easy sweeper curve in the middle of the pack. It was later found that pressure was very low when bike was hauled back to Harley shop. He seemed OK but died within 24 hrs of internal problems. I might be 60....but I'm too young and goodlooking to go that way. I'm amazed at the times my tires change at different times.

 

 

 

 

 

JerryK

 

 

Accidents like that is preventable...my weekly safety check is to verify tire psi. If the bike sat for at least 3 days, I always have the urge to just double check psi. This weekend, the bike is going up on stands for a visual safety check and undercarriage cleaning...

 

As far as rear whine is concerned, I am just a little over 2K miles on my odo and does not have any significant whine. All I hear is the whistling of the Yamaha engine during acceleration...I see there are '07 Ventures here with rear end whine. At what mileage do you start to hear a significant whine on your '07 Venture?

[Guest cyote61]

Does that 'noise' come in all 2nd gen bikes ?? I believe I'll copy the above letter and show my local Yamaha mechanic, see what they think.

 

NOT all I'm happy to report. My 07 does not have it and its at 20000 miles. I know of other that did not have also.

[JerryK]

Raceman,

I check them at least once a week if I'm riding every day.....If it sets for some days between,like now,I check it before I ride. Two weeks ago I thought I would get a good short ride in and it felt heavy in the front end. I checked it while I was out and had 23lb in front....I was shocked!

Checking tire PSI Is not fun to do thats for sure.......but stop for a second and take a big breath..... please take a big breath.......Did you? Well if you don't keep your tires up and you go down and die you won't be taking in those big breaths! Being alive is something I enjoy!

If we all keep an eye on PSI......more will live to ride again.

JerryK

 

 

 

[GeorgeS]

Ok working on my 89 yesterday and today. General yearly Service of everything.

 

Anyway, do to this thread, I decided to Loosen the 4 Nuts holding the Pumpkin to the drive shaft. as JerryK talks about at beginning of this thread.

 

Took nuts off, Tap Tap with rubber mallet, the Gap opened up to .022 in.

 

Just got back home with some shim material, and will get to work installing the Shim.

 

My bike has always had some whine noticable below 30 MPH, when slowing down in quiet area's. Never, got better, or worse. Same now as when bike was new.

 

So, will install shim and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the Information Jerry !!

[JerryK]

I'm anxious to hear your results. Please post or send me some notice....thanks JerryK

[GeorgeS]

Ok, got it done, took me total of 3 hours, but then I'm getting old, and being retired I work slow, ----- And, the Wife is gone to Phoenix for a week. That helps

 

Here is what I found. After Installing the .025 in Homemade shim. Reinstalling the Axel, it slipped right in with no noticable force. Previously, I had to rotate the axel to find the " sweet spot " before it would eaisly slide in fully. ( that was encourging ) ( Note: there never was a shim Installed on this bike, from the factory )

 

Second, while re-installing the Brake caliper, I took a close look at the brake pads. Now I rebuilt this caliper, about 12K miles back, so I'm pretty sure its working OK. But, I noticed that the Inner Pad, was Worn about Twice as much as the Outer Pad. The Pistons, moved IN, Eaisly, to make space for the new pads.

 

They were New, 12K back. Yesterday I put all new pads up front, so I figured I might as well replace the rear also.

 

Anyway, after reomveing the pads, I noticed, about 1/4 th wear on the outer, pad. And 1/2 wear of the Inner, pad. AND, the Inner Pad was Worn at an ---Angle, -----front to back. Which would indicate that the Brake Rotor, was not running True to the center line of the Bike. ??? Well, Maby---

 

Also, in the past, every time I re-Installed the rear wheel, and gave it a spin by hand, I have always noticed, some amount of scraping noise from the Caliper, dureing about 1/3 of the wheel rotation. I never though to much of it.

By " noise ' I mean, Pads against the Rotor movement.

 

So this evening I gave it several spins after re-installation completed. and No Scrapeing noise. The Wheel seems to be spinning more eaisly, by hand, on the center stand. Pads, not makeing contact, as wheel is spun 360 degrees.

 

Will get a test ride in a few days, its Cold and Raining here all week.

 

OH, bye the way, did I mention that its Raining In Seattle Today !!

Edited December 20, 2008 by GeorgeS

[GeorgeS]

Well, did a test run, to break in the New Pads. All working well, New fork seal not leaking.

 

As to whineing noise, from what I always thought was the Transmision, well, not much changed, about the same.

 

Put bike on center stand, spun rear wheel by hand, No Noise from the brakes scraping on the rotor.

 

Conclusion: was it worth the trouble ? I guess so , if the Brake pads are now wearing normally as they should. ???

 

It did not seem right that the last set of pads had More Wear, on the Rear Caliper then the Front Calipers. I normally use the Front brakes much more then the Rear. Thats just how I drive.

 

Anyway, next time you pull your rear wheel, Loosen the 4 nuts first, and check the gap, and go from there. Took me about 45 min. to make the Shim. No big deal.

 

[BigShell]

It did not seem right that the last set of pads had More Wear, on the Rear Caliper then the Front Calipers. I normally use the Front brakes much more then the Rear. Thats just how I drive.

 

The rear will wear out first. Lot's of folks go through two or more sets of rear to one set of front. Like you, I use the front much more than the rear. I changed the front when I did the second set of rear pads. Even then, the front had a good bit of pad left.

 

Wearing more on the inner pad is also common on this bike. Many of us keep an eye on the wear and switch the inner and outer when about half worn out. I've seen pics of the rear wearing at an angle like you describe, so it's not unknown, but mine has never done that.

[Caveman]

Accidents like that is preventable...my weekly safety check is to verify tire psi. If the bike sat for at least 3 days, I always have the urge to just double check psi. This weekend, the bike is going up on stands for a visual safety check and undercarriage cleaning...

 

As far as rear whine is concerned, I am just a little over 2K miles on my odo and does not have any significant whine. All I hear is the whistling of the Yamaha engine during acceleration...I see there are '07 Ventures here with rear end whine. At what mileage do you start to hear a significant whine on your '07 Venture?

 

 

I have the clicking at slow speeds but no Whine. Clicks louder as I back it up?

Edited December 14, 2008 by Caveman

[CMIKE]

C Clark you have dry drive pins...I had that at 800 miles on my 07. Took it down myself and put moly on the pins, drive shaft, and drive splines. No more clicking forward or backward. Warranty will cover it but the only decent dealer I have is 2 1/2 hours away. Middle of the ridding season, did not want to leave the bike with them for a week.

Easy fix...You may want to do the axle alignment while you are in there.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705

[N3FOL]

I have the clicking at slow speeds but no Whine. Clicks louder as I back it up?

 

As CMIK had suggested, looks like lubrication will fix it. I don't hear any clinking on my ride, but if I notice it firsthand...the bike is going straight to a Yamaha shop to get it fixed. I am not sure how much of the clicking will hurt the bike, but the sooner you get that addressed the better.

 

Glad to know these symptoms in advance.

[BJB]

Here is a pic of my rear caliper and brake pads. Note how they were worn, I believe I had two stuck pistons. Have since removed pistons and put new seals, pads, etc. Haven't had a chance check to see if they are wearing the same way as the old.

 

Sorry for pic quality guys.

[FutureVentures]

Ok working on my 89 yesterday and today. General yearly Service of everything.

 

"...

 

Took nuts off, Tap Tap with rubber mallet, the Gap opened up to .022 in.

 

Just got back home with some shim material, and will get to work installing the Shim.

 

Thanks for the Information Jerry !!

 

Ok, I'm not quite following where the location of the shim, or exactly what a shim in this case is.

Like a washer, on the drive shaft?

 

Thx for any clarification and/or photos...

[Guest bradb]

Hi,

I'm wonderingfile:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Home/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg, I have a 2000 rsv. Only bought it last September and haven't road it much(gets cold early here in Newfoundland) I can't remember hearing any rear end noises. According to your post the 2000's didn't have it. Am I right i assuming this?

Thanks,

Brad

[GeorgeS]

Ok, I'm not quite following where the location of the shim, or exactly what a shim in this case is.

Like a washer, on the drive shaft?

 

Thx for any clarification and/or photos...

 

Easy: !! Just Lossen !! ( not remove ) the 4 Nuts that hold the Pumpkin to the Rear End of the Drive Shaft Houseing. Now, use a rubber mallet, and tap tap tap, on the pumpkin Assemble.

 

(( Do Not Lossen the Axel Nut on the right side, leave it Torqued to Spec ))

 

Not watch the Gap open up between Rear end of Shaft houseing, and the Pumpkin. Now Measure the Gap, and then remove the Axel, and wheel, and Pumpkin Assembly, to install the Shim that you will fabricate.

 

Takes a couple hours of work, but not hard to do. You have to make the Shim, as far as I know, Yamaha does not supply a shim.

[az1103]

Easy: !! Just Lossen !! ( not remove ) the 4 Nuts that hold the Pumpkin to the Rear End of the Drive Shaft Houseing. Now, use a rubber mallet, and tap tap tap, on the pumpkin Assemble.

 

(( Do Not Lossen the Axel Nut on the right side, leave it Torqued to Spec ))

 

Not watch the Gap open up between Rear end of Shaft houseing, and the Pumpkin. Now Measure the Gap, and then remove the Axel, and wheel, and Pumpkin Assembly, to install the Shim that you will fabricate.

 

Takes a couple hours of work, but not hard to do. You have to make the Shim, as far as I know, Yamaha does not supply a shim.

 

Sorry, and just where exactly do you install this shim?