FROG MAN Posted November 23, 2008 #1 Posted November 23, 2008 Nothing like screwing up my hunt. It looks like the front wheel bearing is about to come out of my 04 Silverado 4x4. It's a 1500 ext cab series. I will order a bearing or hub assembly tomorrow. Anybody ever change one of these? No garage,cold outside probably snowing and I'm sure I don't have a socket to remove that axle nut with.local garage could probably get to it in 3-4 days at $50 hr.:snow2:
BEER30 Posted November 23, 2008 #2 Posted November 23, 2008 Not a hard task to do . Should only take you less than an hour to do . You can rent the socket for the day . Remember to replace the seal , the races , pack the bearings , re-install just like you took them off . You might need a set of snap ring pliers too . BEER30
hipshot Posted November 23, 2008 #3 Posted November 23, 2008 Not a hard task to do . Should only take you less than an hour to do . You can rent the socket for the day . Remember to replace the seal , the races , pack the bearings , re-install just like you took them off . You might need a set of snap ring pliers too . BEER30 WELL SAID, Gene! i figure with the cold and snow, and the "rented" tools, it shouldn't take over 2 hours! might as well do BOTH sides, Froggy! they are probably the same age, with the same wear and tear! just jt
rod Posted November 24, 2008 #4 Posted November 24, 2008 I agree with what was posted. An electric impact and generator (if no power) is well worth the $$. Lay down a tarp or something to keep you and parts clean and take your time. Good luck Rod
BEER30 Posted November 24, 2008 #5 Posted November 24, 2008 WELL SAID, Gene! i figure with the cold and snow, and the "rented" tools, it shouldn't take over 2 hours! might as well do BOTH sides, Froggy! they are probably the same age, with the same wear and tear! just jt 2 hours !!!!!! I had to change out the driver's side I-Beam of a F-250 4x4 in 20 degree weather with 4' of snow on the ground when I lived in Alaska . And I just had hip surgery 2 weeks earlier and was on crutches to top it off . Took 3 1/2 hours to do and then I went out to plow snow all night long . . . . . . Oh , Forgot . I was much younger then . BEER30
Redneck Posted November 24, 2008 #6 Posted November 24, 2008 I'm not sure on a 4x4 but the 2wd's have a sealed bearing and untill recently you had to replace the hub. some suppliers now sell a bearing kit but you really need to press it out and back in it can be driven with a punch but if you damage the seal plate it won't last long. good luck
BradT Posted November 24, 2008 #7 Posted November 24, 2008 My 4 wheel drive Trailblazer needed one at 40,000 miles. It took 45 minutes to change including pulling the tire. Had the use of a impact gun, which made it simple. The bearing unit is sealed, and is held on with three bolts. All you had to remove was the tire, caliper and rotor. It should easily last a coule of days if you want to bring it in. Bearing should go for a long time from when you first start hearing it, and will get real loud, before it craps out. They will probably charge 1.5 hour labour, but will try and get you for a bunch of other things. Brad
FROG MAN Posted November 26, 2008 Author #8 Posted November 26, 2008 I picked up the bearing hub assembly,35mm axle socket,22mm,18mm sockets, and a T55 torx bit all for $165.00. I guess I'll change it out tomorrow before Thankgiving dinner.We been at camp all week and MamaMo wants to come home tomorrow about noon to start cooking for supper. No snow or rain for tomorrow so I should be good for the job.I got about 49,000 miles on the truck. I'm sure crossing that creek reduced the bearing life. I hope the other side is good til spring.
Rottdoglover Posted November 26, 2008 #9 Posted November 26, 2008 Frog Man: All that about packing bearings does not apply. 04 Chevy has sealed bearings. But it is an easy job. I just went through the EXACT same thing on same model. Mine lasted about 50k. And I never off roaded it! I did not do the good side and it has lasted to 66K. As you see, it's all in one unit. Only advise I can give is first thing, loosen driveshaft nut and without removing nut give it a good smack with a large hammer to bust splines loose. Do this while everything is still tight. Then caliper comes off, (hang caliper by something to take strain off brake hose) rotor, three bolts holding hub/bearing assembly, and that's all there is to it. Did your new hub come with the ABS sensor? If not be careful switching that little bugger. Good luck. Although I doubt you'll need it. I concour that even if it takes a little longer at home, it's worth doing. Garage charges flat rate and if the guy knows what he's doing, it's less than 1 hour actual work, but you get charged FULL time.. Almost forgot, when you get the three bolts out, that is a machine fit and you may need a little tap to loosend hub.
1sttenor Posted November 26, 2008 #10 Posted November 26, 2008 I'm guessing that it was the front left? We have a fleet of these trucks. They all go bad, most under warranty. I'd call the dealer, they might do it under warranty, even if its a little over.
BradT Posted November 27, 2008 #11 Posted November 27, 2008 Only advise I can give is first thing, loosen driveshaft nut and without removing nut give it a good smack with a large hammer to bust splines loose. Do this while everything is still tight. I prefer to pull the nut off and use the rounded end of a ball pean hammer and set it on the end of the shaft, and then hit the ball pean hammer with a bigger hammer. Works pretty good and no chance of damaging the threads (unless you miss the hammer). Brad
FROG MAN Posted November 29, 2008 Author #12 Posted November 29, 2008 Thanks for all the tips. I finished up yesterday. My next project is to grease that noisy intermediate steering shaft. GM never put enough grease in the thing and every late model silverado will start clunking high in the steering wheel. It feels and sounds like it's inside the cab. Now to find a grease syringe for a temp fix. Not sure if GM ever recalled this problem but many customers have complained about it.
Squidley Posted November 29, 2008 #13 Posted November 29, 2008 Thanks for all the tips. I finished up yesterday. My next project is to grease that noisy intermediate steering shaft. Now to find a grease syringe for a temp fix. Go Froggie Go Froggie Go Froggie:banana:
Yammer Dan Posted November 29, 2008 #14 Posted November 29, 2008 Always late. I think I those tools somewhere. Sockets may only go to 32. I'll have to go look now to see what I got. Last one I had to do like that was my old 76 F100. Remember Kingpins?? All kinds of fun!! Bearing are easy compared to them. Messed up threads on I-Beam on that one really had fun getting that grease cap back on. Like Gene I was a little younger then. I beat on that thing for a while. Now I got a Saab 900SE Turbo out there with clutch out. Wonder what dealer would want to fix that? It went completely all at once so Probally end up doping it myself or having it towed 80 miles to Saab dealer.It never ends.
greg_in_london Posted November 29, 2008 #15 Posted November 29, 2008 then hit the ball pean hammer with a bigger hammer. Anyone doing this please be careful and wear goggles - or better still use a heavy copper mallet or similar. Hitting a hardened steel surface with a hardened steel hammer will easily send a steel chip flying off along with a spark. Nearly twenty years ago a friend had a chip go straight through the cornea and lens blinding him in one eye when he hit a gearbox casing in frustration. I haven't seen him for several years, but he was still blind in oe eye when I last saw him.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now