Tying into battery - How?

[MAINEAC]

So, if I wanted to have the fuse block I add to be hot only when the bike is running, would I place the relay in between the battery and the new fuse block?

 

I really want the fuse block hot only when the bike is running.

 

Or is there a better way to accomlish that?

 

Thanks!

 

It's not really nessesary to relay the fuse box.... if... you're going to use relays to all the things running off of said fuse box.... If you used switched power to run the individual relays they will only work with the key on... Relay at the box is just one more component to potentially fail and unnessesary if everything running off the box is wired properly... The only thing I have non relayed is a cigarette lighter and I want that to work without the key...

[BigBear]

Thanks MAINEAC!

 

The accessories I'm powering from this aux fuse panel are a ZUMO and and XM radio, so the load isn't all that "heavy".

 

Having the aux fuse panel switched will alleviate a dead battery should I forget to turn off an accessory.

 

As usual...VR.org to the rescue!

 

[hcdagen]

http://faq.ninja250.org/index.php?title=Installing_an_accessory_fuse_box&redirect=no&printable=yes Walt,here is a link I used for ideas to install a key controlled power block on my RSTD.It has some good suggestions,especially the one about putting a ground post on the buss fuse panel.It was pretty easy once u get started,good luck,Herb.

[Dave77459]

http://faq.ninja250.org/index.php?title=Installing_an_accessory_fuse_box&redirect=no&printable=yes Walt,here is a link I used for ideas to install a key controlled power block on my RSTD.It has some good suggestions,especially the one about putting a ground post on the buss fuse panel.It was pretty easy once u get started,good luck,Herb.

 

Thanks for the link to directions. I am, sadly, still a bit confused.

 

I got the BUSS P36 ATC FUSE PANEL 15600-06-20 (pic included... looks like others in this thread). I finally found one at Advanced Auto Parts. Yay!

 

I am familiar with running the hot from the battery. The instructions linked above also run a negative that is not "strictly necessary". They drill a hole in the plastic and thread a nut. Then that bolt becomes the negative post. A lead is run to the battery negative. Yes? Or the frame?

 

My intended application is to run power wires under the tank to the front for powering passing lamps, auxiliary power, etc. With the negative post as suggested, I can run two-wire bundles. One (the red wire) goes to the fused connector, the other (black wire? brown?) to the ground post. Yes?

 

In our collective opinions, is it better to use this two-wire approach, or to always make a local ground? As an immediate example, my air horn now runs the ground to the engine block/mounting bolt, a run of 5" or so. Is there a benefit to running it back to the proposed post?

 

Should I run a fused hot connection to the battery? Is there any danger from leaving exposed terminals, if there are no fuses in the block?

 

What size wire should I run to power the fuse box? What size to the ground?

 

The more I work on this project, the more I understand. But then, with more understanding comes more questions. Thanks for your help.

[SilvrT]

Thanks for the link to directions. I am, sadly, still a bit confused.

 

I got the BUSS P36 ATC FUSE PANEL 15600-06-20 (pic included... looks like others in this thread). I finally found one at Advanced Auto Parts. Yay!

 

I am familiar with running the hot from the battery. The instructions linked above also run a negative that is not "strictly necessary". They drill a hole in the plastic and thread a nut. Then that bolt becomes the negative post. A lead is run to the battery negative. Yes? Or the frame?

 

The fuse block I used doesn't require grounding... all it does is supply "hot" power thru the fuses to the accessory (which is grounded).

 

My intended application is to run power wires under the tank to the front for powering passing lamps, auxiliary power, etc. With the negative post as suggested, I can run two-wire bundles. One (the red wire) goes to the fused connector, the other (black wire? brown?) to the ground post. Yes?

 

I didn't follow the instructions in that link ....

 

Should I run a fused hot connection to the battery? Is there any danger from leaving exposed terminals, if there are no fuses in the block?

 

None... no fuse, no power to the exposed terminal.

 

What size wire should I run to power the fuse box? What size to the ground?

 

I ran a 10 gauge wire from the positive post to the fuse block.

[Dave77459]

I didn't follow the instructions in that link ....

I think difference between that link and other instructions I have seen is that they create a negative post on the fuse block and run a negative wire from there to the battery. Then, you can use paired wires, hooking the positive to the fused lead, and the negative to the post. I guess the benefit is that you don't have to look for someplace to ground local to your new equipment. I guess?

 

Thanks for your answers. I appreciate it. 10 gauge is what I was thinking.

Edited May 14, 2009 by Dave77459
poor grammar

[SilvrT]

I think difference between that link and other instructions I have seen is that they create a negative post on the fuse block and run a negative wire from there to the battery. Then, you can use paired wires, hooking the positive to the fused lead, and the negative to the post. I guess the benefit is that you don't have to look for someplace to ground local to your new equipment. I guess?

 

Thanks for your answers. I appreciate it. 10 gauge is what I was thinking.

 

sounds logical enuf to me!

 

YVW

[atlm]

Thanks for the tip on where to find an affordable blade-type fuse block! I had looked in 3 stores, including my local Advance Auto, and couldn't find one, so I went back to Advance and mentioned that someone here said they had them. He sent me to a bigger Advance store 5 miles away, who had them. ah ha!

 

With my Battery Tender and Stebel, I have 2 connections to the battery. After reading here about the passing lights and relay, I found that my (dealer installed for the previous owner) passing lights did not have one, so I bought the relay and need another connection for that. And I'm thinking about Gerbings heated gloves, so that would be 4.

 

When does it ever end?